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  • torpedo
    Apprentice
    • Jun 4 2011
    • 63

    Possible gauge problem

    I have a 1964 Thunderbird, recently I flushed the rad, replaced the thermostat, timed the car, now when I start the car after several minutes the heat gauge/needle moves 3/4 of the way up. Can someone help. Its either a waterpump problem or possible fin obstruction or the timing is set to far advanced. If there are any other opinions I would greatly appreciate it.
    Rad was replaced about 4-5 years ago, and I rarely drive it.

    Thanks
  • simplyconnected
    Administrator
    • May 26 2009
    • 8787

    #2
    Is your heat riser valve stuck shut? Check it out. It's on your passenger side exhaust manifold, right at the end. - Dave
    Member, Sons of the American Revolution

    CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

    "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
    --Lee Iacocca

    From: Royal Oak, Michigan

    Comment

    • torpedo
      Apprentice
      • Jun 4 2011
      • 63

      #3
      Gauge

      I will certainly do that. Thanks Dave

      Comment

      • Joe Johnston
        Super-Experienced
        • Dec 23 2008
        • 720

        #4
        My thoughts.

        1 - use an IR contact-less temp gun to see how hot the engine is actually getting. Aim it at the T-stat housing, now you have reference to the gauge and know the act temp not just 3/4 to H.

        2 - Make sure coolant is at proper level. Drive the car several times at hwy speed over a week to stabilize the coolant level. Sometimes it takes several full heat cycles to work out any air pockets in the block.

        3 - Retarded timing causes higher temps, not overly advanced. If the engine does not have spark knock under load, advance it till it does, then back off a bit till the spark knock disappears. Way too much advance will also cause the starter to kick back and crank hard, also an unwanted condition that is controllable by backing off the timing till it disappears. The specs are only an average starting point, and do not take into consideration your altitude, fuel octane/quality, engine condition and is not the optimum spec for any non computerized car to perform its best.

        4 - Are you sure the T-stat is installed correctly?? wouldn't be the first one installed backwards.

        5 - Re-flush the radiator and engine block. Your first flush may have dislodged crud that is now blocking something.

        6 - Do you have a fan, original or aftermarket, and a fan shroud? Is the fan properly located in the shroud?

        Good luck and post your findings!
        Last edited by Joe Johnston; June 2, 2014, 08:48 AM. Reason: spell check

        Comment

        • torpedo
          Apprentice
          • Jun 4 2011
          • 63

          #5
          Thanks Joe, what a great forum.

          Comment

          • eastwildlife
            Newbie
            • May 20 2014
            • 8

            #6
            Might look at the temp sending unit as well. Mine read cold period. Turns out it was for an idiot light not a gauge.

            Comment

            • scumdog
              Super-Experienced

              • May 12 2006
              • 1528

              #7
              Originally posted by Joe Johnston
              My thoughts.

              1 - use an IR contact-less temp gun to see how hot the engine is actually getting. Aim it at the T-stat housing, now you have reference to the gauge and know the act temp not just 3/4 to H.
              That's what I did - and found that when my guage was 2/3 towards H that it was only 180 degrees or so.
              A Thunderbirder from the Land of the Long White Cloud.

              Comment

              • torpedo
                Apprentice
                • Jun 4 2011
                • 63

                #8
                Update: According to the mechanic, the problem was a faulty waterpump along with a slow leak around the gasket. Gauge was reading high after 5 mins. of run time.

                Comment

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