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  • jopizz
    Super-Experienced


    • Nov 23 2009
    • 8308

    #16
    Make sure your doors are closed or you will have a dead short. Start by removing one fuse at a time and removing power from each breaker one at a time. If you still have a short I would check where the connectors plug in at the firewall.

    John
    John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

    Thunderbird Registry #36223
    jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695

    https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

    Comment

    • OUR5T8BIRD
      Experienced
      • Mar 1 2017
      • 461

      #17
      Originally posted by Larry Tappen
      hey guys, need some advise on wiring at fuse box on my 64 bird. according to the wiring diagram in the elec. book page#24 4135-2 the picture shows the fuse box with a jumper wire on the circuit breakers, but in the shop manual on page #15-10 fig. 2 shows the jumper in a different spot, so my question is which is correct. and also about wiring, the radio, mine is an am with fader (I think). i'm thinking if it has fader control thus volume control between front and rear speakers which are installed. now where dose the real speaker plug in at radio, or is it part of the large plug when they are together. i'm looking at page #e4-4648-1. thanks for the help, larry
      Just reading these posts again . Larry, you mention a ' fader knob ' next to your steering column . Far as I know, the radios never had a separate fader knob . Is it possible that your car had a " reverberator installed at one time ,or still there . That would require a rear speaker with an a/m radio . the reverberator would be mounted in the trunk in the shape of a metal box with a flat multi- wire coming from it . Some had just the knob on the dash ( rotating as well as pull out/in for on and off. The one I had in my '65 ( once owned ) also had a dimmer switch for on / off control as will as the fader knob or front to rear balance .

      Comment

      • Larry Tappen
        Experienced
        • May 5 2017
        • 114

        #18
        wiring

        our5t8bird, the fader control I was referring to is the knob behind the tuning knob on the right side of radio as looking at it. i'm not sure if that knob is called a fader or balance control between the front speaker and rear speaker. when I bought this bird it did not have any speakers so bought two new ones and installed them but radio only gives out some static when turning vol. control up or down. I did a bench test on this radio with 12 volt supply, speaker, and made up antenna. still only static so I decided to install said radio anyway. maybe i'll install fm radio later into the glove box. was hoping this radio would work even if only a few stations then connect a fm converter to it, but now I've got a bigger problem, a big power drain in the wiring that i'm trying to figure out, not having to much luck thanks to all for letting me ramble, larry.

        Comment

        • Larry Tappen
          Experienced
          • May 5 2017
          • 114

          #19
          wiring

          john, thanks for the reply. I did the batt test when the doors were open, didn't know that would make a short. the batt test was with neg. cable off batt. test light and volt meter connected to neg. cable and ground on engine, had 12.7 voltage draw. to me i'm thinking short some where. I'll check as you said pulling one fuse at a time. thanks again, larry.

          Comment

          • simplyconnected
            Administrator
            • May 26 2009
            • 8778

            #20
            Larry, take some pictures. You may send them to me (simplyconnected@aol.com) and I will post them for you.

            In addition, after you take pictures I can see, get in front of your car with the wiring diagram and your phone. I will go through the tests with you. We can get this straightened out.

            Send the pictures to me then call (248) 544-8834 - Dave
            Member, Sons of the American Revolution

            CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

            "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
            --Lee Iacocca

            From: Royal Oak, Michigan

            Comment

            • Larry Tappen
              Experienced
              • May 5 2017
              • 114

              #21
              wiring

              to all the helpers out there: I found the electrical plug by fuse panel that goes through the fire wall partly melted and after taking plug apart found the black with {green stripe} badly coroded and broken. this I think is part of my problem. also found the starter solenoid seems to be shorted, I have 12 volts going across the plus cable side and the neg. side with out key on. don't think that is right without key being on to supply voltage. in am i'm going to remove rubber wire plug and splice and solder the wires and go from there. wish me luck, thanks, larry.

              Comment

              • jopizz
                Super-Experienced


                • Nov 23 2009
                • 8308

                #22
                Originally posted by Larry Tappen
                also found the starter solenoid seems to be shorted, I have 12 volts going across the plus cable side and the neg. side with out key on. don't think that is right without key being on to supply voltage.
                You should always have 12V on the battery side of the solenoid. It connects directly to the battery +. There is no negative terminal. The solenoid grounds to the firewall. If you had a short in the solenoid the starter would turn over with the key off.

                John
                John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

                Thunderbird Registry #36223
                jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695

                https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

                Comment

                • simplyconnected
                  Administrator
                  • May 26 2009
                  • 8778

                  #23
                  Originally posted by Larry Tappen
                  ...i'm going to remove rubber wire plug and splice and solder the wires and go from there...
                  The only reason Ford used plugs and receptacles is to make installing the wire harnesses fast and to make sure none of the wires are crossed. In short, 'you can't get it wrong'.

                  I suggest you use crimp connectors instead of solder. Many times, I will take a #10 (yellow) ring terminal and cut the ring off. Then, stick both wires to be spliced into the terminal sleeve and crimp it. This is the best connection possible because it offers the least resistance.

                  Glad you found the melted plug. Oh and... Use a continuity tester across your starter solenoid with the wires removed. - Dave
                  Member, Sons of the American Revolution

                  CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                  "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                  --Lee Iacocca

                  From: Royal Oak, Michigan

                  Comment

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