replacing the front wheel bearing

[Larry Jones]

I own a 1962 t-bird convertible with alot of noise coming down near the front wheels. I have own this car for four years. Whats involved in changing the collasped wheel bearings. Can I myself make a determination if its the wheel bearing or something else. One procedure would be to jack the car up and move the wheel up and down plus rotating the wheel that I read on another site is that correct. When the wheel comes off what do I need to look for also. Any special tool involved in this also. I would like to attempt this myself but have never done this sort before. When driving the car it sounds like a can is being dragged. Thanks Larry

[Guest]

Hey Larry,
I'm going to try and help, some of the other guys may have more to add! First Chock rear wheels, make sure car is in park and use jack stands when you get car to desired height. Remove wheel and tire. See if drum will come off or not. (post if it does not) Remove drum. You will see brakes and hub assembly. There are two bearings in the hub. One on the outside and one on the inside. The brakes will have to be removed to remove the hub! Take pictures for reference when reinstalling! There should be a cap covering the center bearing. Remove it. Then you will have a cotter pin holding the hub nut in place. Take a pair of pliers bend the cotter pin straight and pull it out (from the round end) Remove the hub nut and hub should come off! The bearings should slide out. There maybe a keeper of some sort holding the back bearing in place! Once the hub is off look at your spindle and make sure it is not scored! If it is and it is not bad it can be sanded and cleaned up! If it scored bad it will have to be replaced!
Keep us posted!
Richard D. Hord

[simplyconnected]

STOP DRIVING THE CAR! Pull off the hubcap and 'crack' the 5 lug nuts off ½-turn.

Jack the wheel up and slide a jack stand under the frame. Lower the car onto the jack stand and shake the car before putting any body parts in a pinch point.

Have you got a camera? Take at least twenty pictures as you do this job. Every time you uncover something new, take a picture from different angles.

With the car securely on a jack stand, take the tire off. Pull the center dust cover off with 420-Channelocks (or a hammer & screwdriver). As Richard stated, take the cotter pin out and unscrew the large nut.

You should have a clean bowl or container to put your parts in as you will use some of them over.

Pull the drum straight off the axle. If it hangs up on the brakes, back off the brake adjustment star wheel a few turns from behind the backplate. Eventually, you will slide the hub and drum off the spindle.

Use plenty of rags. Clean the spindle off real well and inspect the brake shoes. If you see any wear or abnormality, you may need to buy replacement parts.

Take the outer (smaller) bearing out. With the wheel laying over a rag (drum down), stick a wooden dowel inside the center, catch the inner bearing by the edge, and knock it out with a hammer. That should displace the grease seal and bearing. Wash all the parts (hub, bearings, nut, washer, and dust cover so you can see them clearly.

If your bearings or races are laminated, burned, galled, missing any parts, etc., replace them. If the drum is bad, replace it. I know you have a Shop Manual, so follow the directions.

Keep all dirt out when you repack your bearings and don't let any grease or oil touch your brake parts. NEVER reuse your old seals. - Dave

[Larry Jones]

wheel bearing

Thank you Dave and Richard for your input on this matter. Larry

[Jimz Bird]

Just a thought on removing the drums.

Sometimes the drums are hard to pull off even with the brakes shoes backed off so you can put the wheel back on and screw the lugs on a few turns - not tight, just a couple or three turns - push the wheel in and pull it out quickly a couple of times. That can sometimes free up the drums so you don't resort to trying to pry or pound them off. Be careful that you don't end up sitting on the ground with it in your lap. I usually sit down to start with.

Has it been mentioned to be sure it is firmly on the jack stands - oh yeah - it has - just a reminder.

Has it been mentioned to take pictures - oh yeah - it has - just a reminder.

Of course, you will want to use new cotter pins also. Never reuse cotter pins that have been bent and unbent.

You CAN do this AND other stuff but a good place to start.

[Larry Jones]

replacing the wheel bearing

Thanks to you Jim for your interest in my problem. Larry

[Larry Jones]

wheel bearing noise

Well Richard and Dave I I mean Located the problem with some help from others also to mention Scumdog. Last week when I was cleaning the fan blads I noticed there is a long rod behind the radiator which the lower end came unattached. By moving the rod it creates the same sound as it hits up against the radiator or even the fan blades not sure yet as I here while driving the car. What purpose does this long rod serve. Also I dont no how to attach it at the bottem. Is there a slot down underneath the base that this rod gets reattached or what. I dont really want to pull the radiater and drain the fluids. If push comes to shove couldnt I if need be buy some plastic or metal glue tomhold this rod in place the top of the rod is secured but cant see how that is attached either. This is a 62 t-bird. Larry

[Guest]

Hey Larry,
Is this rod attached to the (back) top of the radiator and hang down? See attached. See vertical rod in center of radiator?
Richard D. Hord

[Larry Jones]

vertical rods behind the radiator

What purpose do the two verticle rods serve behind my radiator in my 62 t-bird.The shroud holds the radiator inplace. I dont understand Fords concept of this. The rods our soldered into place and what function do they serve. The only reason I can determine is that if the radiator came unattached the rods maybe would hold it from the fan motor. Iam I correct on that assumption. Please let me no. Larry