Oil Filter Study

[bcomo]

I ran across this interesting Oil Filter Study on 20 filters.

Many of the filters are made by the same company.

Ford only approves filters with a by-pass valve at the TOP of the filter, NOT at the bottom. By-pass valve at the bottom allows dirt at the bottom of the filter to go into the engine.

FRAM filter, or other name brands made by FRAM are the worst filters to use. (i.e. Penzoil filters are made by Fram)


Got your attention???? Here are the URLs, for your own interpretation --

1. Engine Oil Filters Overview

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html

2. Engine Oil Filter Study
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...y.html#mc-fl1a

[Guest]

Thanks Bart for info.I try to always buy Motorcraft,now I will look to see who the manf.is.

[bcomo]

I use Motorcraft FL-1A. That filter has the by-pass valve at the top "Ford approved".

Here's what he said:
"This is an interesting filter. Basically, it appeared to be a Purolator Pure One filter cartridge in a Purolator Premium Plus case"

[JohnG]

you got my attention... what are Ford approved filters for the 352 series? I am not assuming that the filter is the same as for the 430s you guys own (although certainly possible).

Thanks!

john

1958 Hardtop

[bcomo]

John:

The 20 filters that he bought, cut appart, unraveled, and tested were all for a 5.0 Liter Ford. That way he could compare apples to apples.

The study is comparing "brands". So, you really only have to be concerned with what brand appears best -- to you. Notice that he says at the beginning that this study will not tell you which is "best" or "worst". He just compares them for you to make the judgement.

If you read carefully, you'll see that he got a letter from a lawyer representing one of the manufactures -- telling him to remove his web site. Isn't that a kick?

As far as Ford approved filters -- If a filter is clogged, the filter bi-pass valve allows unfiltered oil to go to the engine, rather than starve your engine of oil.

In all filters, some unfiltered "junk" is at the bottom of the filter. Ford approved only those filters that allowed unfiltered oil to be "bi-passed" through the top of the filter where there is no junk build up. Makes sense.

Here's my true life experience --

I had the oil changed in my Jeep Liberty last week. They used a Penzoil filter. I figured, hey that's good. After reading this study, here's what I find out -- Quote "
Penzoil

This filter is a Fram! It is the exact same design as the Fram Extra Guard filter and it is junk. On the up side, it costs $1 less than the Fram version."

Wish that I would have read this last week.

[JohnG]

hi Bart

I have to confess to thinking that "a filter was a filter". I get a "brand X" at the local Federated parts store. No idea who really makes it. Duh... (later...reading the box reveals it to be made by Hastings)

As I put about $1200 and countless hours into rebuilding my motor a year ago, a good filter is therefore an obvious requirement.

Aside from making a choice, I will take one of the Federated ones and cut it up to see what's inside. I have a spare that I accidently dented and did not want to use.

After I change I can see if the oil pressure varies at all.

I have to tell you I am more concerned for my poor old Subaru (178K miles) which has had a number of Fram filters on it...

Thank you for the information... I will visit some local shops and see what they have for choices.

Reading over the study, filters seem to have three main attributes:
* physical construction (will it fall apart and how?)
* by-pass capability
* filtering capability.

To achieve better filtering, the author gives the impression that paper is second rate to synthetic material as synthetic will filter smaller particles. This narrows the choices down quickly, pretty much to Pure One PL30001. Any thoughts on this??

John

PS some of the Mustang guys had an oil filter discussion of sorts at

http://www.mustangforums.com/m_664012/tm.htm

with similar comments from the first writer about Fram being low quality

[bcomo]

John:

Mathematically, the filter that removes the smallest particles, sounds best. BUT--- regarding the Pure One, he says: "It seems to have so many pleats that it is almost a solid chunk of filter element. It seems like it would end up restricting the flow, more than anything."

Also, the Pure One and Amsoil filters have the bottom Bi-Pass valve. Ford No-No.

Here is another oil study that used the same brands. It does give their top choices, and a great table for comparison at the VERY bottom.

Their choices are: (All are top bi-pass valve filters)

Mobil 1 - synthetic element
K&N - synthetic element
Castrol MaxPro Plus - synthetic element
MotorCraft - Paper element

http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-oil/lubrication-oilpart5.htm

[JohnG]

the comments about the filter being almost solid don't bother me. While it will be harder for oil to pass through a material with smaller orificies, they have compensated for it by having more sheer area for oil to go through (about 25% more area from his tables - about 400 sq in vs 316 if my memory of his table is correct).

As I have an oil pressure gauge, my first goal would be to see how pressure compares with that from my current filter, all other things being equal.

Essentially the size of the objects filtered vs allowed to pass should correspond to the various bearing clearances in your motor. For example, main bearing clearances should be in the ballpark of .001". So a dirt particle of, say, .0005" size can remain suspended in oil and pass through the bearing/journal, while something .001" or bigger would pose a problem and ought to be captured by the filter.

Now a more practical problem for me is actually getting my paws on a more highly rated filter. Let's say I shoot for buying a Mobil 1 filter (the synthetic part being desireable). What do I use for a starting point for a filter #?? If I walk in and ask for a filter for a 1958 Ford 352 motor, they will probably die laughing. In other words, we need a conversion table that gets us from 352's and 430's into modern filter reference #s. Then I can simply walk in and say "Gimme a Mobil One oil filter, part ABC 281, please" and avoid the old car issue entirely.

Such a table would have 3 columns: manufacturer, 352 filter #, 430 filter #. Maybe additional columns showing paper vs synthetic, by-pass location, and anything else of note. Maybe cost but a minor matter and variable by retailer.

[Alexander]

That filter for the 352 is the first spin-on filter. Ford invented it. It is the most widely used filter ever. It was even used on many foreign makes. I think it was used on cars from 1958 to the early 1990's. You should have no problem finding it.

[byersmtrco]

What the experts REALLY say;

Being in the parts business we get asked all the time . . . Which filter . . . which oil.
What has come down the pipe from GM engineering is not what kind but how often!!
Sure, new oil filters work good. Synth oil is great too.

Change it regularly !! I run dino oil in the TBird right now. I wanted to get 1500 or 2000 miles on the new motor (ring break in) before changing to synth. I change it every 6 months if I've gone 5 miles or 3000 miles (3000 not likely in TB) You don't want regular oil in the motor for more than 6 months. Synth you can go a year (or 7500 miles) I'll still stay with 5000 miles w/ the other cars. I run Mobile 1 in everything . I run Motorcraft oil filters in the TB and our V10 motorhome and Delco in our GM cars (Always run the factory parts!!!!)

[bcomo]

JohnG:

I took a run to Auto Zone this morning.

The 58-60 352 and 430 use the same filters in all brands. What you said about filtration makes sense.

I change my oil every 3 months (never reaches 3K miles). I've been using MotorCraft ($3.99), but just bought the Mobil 1 ($9.99) because it will filter better to 10-20 microns. The $5 difference once in 3 months is well worth it to me.

The small particles in the engine that aren't filtered through the MotorCraft paper filter, should now be filtered out using the Mobil 1 with a finer synthetic filter.


Based on the studies, Ford Mustang Web Site comments, and the Part numbers on the filters ----

58-60 Thunderbird Filters 352 and 430: These are readily available in at AutoZone, and other similar stores.

Recommended filters:

Mobil 1: Synthetic filter element, uses top bi-pass valve. Very high filtration capability. This filter is built like a tank -- it weighs in at 6 Ounces heavier than the MotorCraft on my scale. # M1-301 ($9.99 at AutoZone)

K&N: Synthetic filter element, uses top bi-pass valve. This filter is built very much like the Mobil 1. But, it uses a nut welded to the base instead of serated edges to tighten the filter. That could be good or bad. # HP-3001 ($11.99)

MotorCraft: Paper filter, uses top bi-pass valve. This is a good quality filter, but just doesn't have as fine a filtration capability as either the Mobil 1 or K&N. #FL-1A ($3.99)


Non-Recommended filters:

Fram: Paper element, not as much filter material, cardboard end caps on filter element that can come appart.

Penzoil: Made by Fram -- "A Fram filter with yellow paint".

Purolator Pure One: Similar to the MotorCraft, BUT uses a non-Ford approved bottom bi-pass valve.

Amsoil: Uses a non-Ford approved bottom bi-pass valve.

References:

1. Engine Oil Filters Overview

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html

2. Engine Oil Filter Study
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...y.html#mc-fl1a

3. Oil and Oil Filter 101
http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-o...n-oilpart5.htm

4. Mustang Web Site (Thanks JohnG)

http://www.mustangforums.com/m_664012/tm.htm

[byersmtrco]

Is that the latest & greatest info on the Ford/Motorcraft filter? I thought they were rated up there with Delco having the best rating. I might switch to that Mobil-1 filter (at least in the V10)

More homework

[JohnG]

hi Bart

A big Thank You!! you have done valuable work here!

Now I know exactly what filter to get in Autozone which makes the job a piece of cake. (M1-301 ). There are several around here. I change the oil about once a year as I only put 3K miles on it per year and have no reluctance at all to spend the difference.

Now, some questions for a couple of you. My motor has 3200 total miles on it since a complete rebuild. It has had 2 oil changes (300 miles, 2800 miles) and I have been using conventional 10W-30 oil. On the next oil change, should

a) go to synthetic

b) if Yes, which synthetic and what weight ??

thanks again
John

[bcomo]

John Byers:

The Delco "UltraGuard" (NOT DuraGuard) was actually rated somewhat better than the Mobil 1 on filtration. Problem is -- the Ultraguard had reports of leaking problems at the top seam, and you can't find them (so they say). The Duraguard wasn't a player in better filtration.

So, the Mobil 1 wins by default.

JohnG:

Pandora's box is about to be open on the oil thing?

When you rebuilt your engine, are your valves stock, or hardened -- whatever?

[JohnG]

Valves? I used stainless valves and had hardened valve seats inserted. (have an extra set of seats if anyone needs them...). I know there has been considerable debate on the unleaded gas/valves/seats topic ; I took the most conservative route.