Eric's 1960 T-Bird

[YellowRose]

Eric's 1960 T-Bird

Eric, the cost of Paid Membership is in the very first sentence of the thread that I gave you. $20 US each year, paid via PayPal. The payment will go to Lincolns Of Distinction which is the server we share with them, but it will be credited to you as a Squarebirds member and not a LOD member. The system will know which you are...

Paid Membership Benefits - Webspace and E-Mail
As a paid member of Squarebirds.org you get the following annual benefits for only $20 per year:

[jopizz]

Eric,

Why do you have two VIN #'s? Your car should only have one. The data plate should match what is on the title and stamped on the passenger side firewall. The membership fee is $20 per year. To become a member go to the 'Donate to site" icon in the upper right corner.

John

[Eric S]

Actually it's the 2nd line. Spent the day on the screen and eyes got tired...

John, I have 2 VINs cause I got 2 cars !

[jopizz]

John, I have 2 VINs cause I got 2 cars !

That makes more sense. Your profile only has one car listed which is why I was confused.

John

[jopizz]

Eric,

Going by your picture it's hard to tell if you have the original 352. The valve covers, air cleaner and Holley carburetor are not original. It looks like the manifold has been changed as I don't see the oil fill tube. You also have the later type expansion tank. It could be a 390 but at any rate it's an FE engine.

John

[Eric S]

Thank you John
By the way, you see this tube going right over the Ford logo on the valve cover.
It is copper and insulated.
Goes from exhaust manifold to carb.
But not linked. Just lying around. Carb is very likely a replacement. I guess it is some kind of choke involved.
I can not see any reason to keep this useless part in place. Is there any reason you might think about that made the previous owner kept that fake part here?

[jopizz]

Eric,

That is the tube used with the original carb with heat activated choke. It appears you have an electric choke so as you say there's no need for it.

John

[Tbird1044]

That's a nice touch to use the preformed 90's hose where it connects to the heater core. I'll have to remember that next time I change hoses.
Nyles

[Eric S]

Nyles

can you please explain?
Are you talking about those black hoses going to the heater. It was my next question. Are they correct or what should we use?
On my second 60, they are worse as they used a domestic garden hose for that !

[jopizz]

Nyles

can you please explain?
Are you talking about those black hoses going to the heater. It was my next question. Are they correct or what should we use?
On my second 60, they are worse as they used a domestic garden hose for that !

The factory just used black 5/8" heater hose. It was not pre-bent.

John

[Eric S]

So mine are correct?

[jopizz]

On yours they used a pre-bent hose and then connected it to a length of straight hose. The factory hose is just one piece from the heater core to the engine. It's fine the way it is but it's not the way the factory did it.

John

[Tbird1044]

Here is a picture of neatly run heater hoses, the way the factory did it.
Nyles

[byersmtrco]

Gates makes lengths of htr/hose (5/8 & 3/4) with a
90 deg bend on one end. Makes it nice on the Eng end.
Cut to length from there.
I'm going to do that when I run new belts & hoses.
Down the list a ways. Hopefully, she's goin' to my buddies
shop next week for some MUCH NEEDED TLC

[byersmtrco]

Gates makes lengths of htr/hose (5/8 & 3/4) with a
90 deg bend on one end. Makes it nice on the Eng end.
Cut to length from there.
I'm going to do that when I run new belts & hoses.
Down the list a ways. Hopefully, she's goin' to my buddies
shop next week for some MUCH NEEDED TLC

I think just the one on the wtr/pump could use the 90 Deg.