Loud howling when turning left

[simplyconnected]

From looking at your vid's, I say your brake pads are straightening your rotors. That means your hub is loose.

I thought you would show the caliper hardware but the camera was too low. What calipers did you buy? Were they 'loaded'? Do they have all the rubbers?

Without being there to personally inspect your setup, it's nearly impossible to properly diagnose from this chair in Michigan but that's my opinion. That drone is nasty and excessive. Start at the hub, then go to the caliper hardware and finally the pads. Did you properly bend the tabs over on your pads before installing them? (See, I have more questions than answers because I only know what you tell me.) Your calipers have one piston and they should equalize easily. - Dave

[simplyconnected]

I've been thinking of your problem and was looking for pictures of your setup but I guess you don't have any because you weren't there during the installation.

Are you sure the donut is in place and properly oriented on your spindle?

[Yadkin]

The hub isnt loose since there is no play when i move the tire in-out. The outboard pad is tight against the rotor, the inboard is loose.

What is a donut?

I have an email out to the supplier to obtain the make and model of the calipers. I think they are a GM style. I'm thinking of rebuilding it or replacing.

I was not aware that the clips needed to have tabs bent to install, ive always slid them in place. Both sides are installed the same way.

[Yadkin]

The calipers are GM D145. Browsing Summit Racing, lots of pricy options, including Wildwood. The vendor emailed me back, saying that are OE on a '94 Chevy S10 2WD. O's had a right side in stock for $18.

It looked the same as the old one, just a different manufacturer. I had some silver high temperature paint on my shelf to match the old one so brake-cleaned it then painted it.

Then I found that didn't bolt on. An inspection of the old one revealed that the vendor had ground off some of the tabs to fit his custom bracket. I had to do that and a little more. And to think that I was thinking of selling my big ol' Craftsman portable grinder...

[simplyconnected]

That's wonderful information but I thought we already established that your calipers are an S10 setup. BTW, the 4WD version works just as well and they are interchangeable. I'm using the 4WD version on our Galaxie.

Experienced S10 brake mechanics bend the tabs on the outer pads to eliminate any slop. Inner and outer pads do not mount the same as the outer pads 'hook' onto the caliper.

The 'donut' is a metal spacer that your hub seal rides on. It is the only new part that fits around your spindle. If you have someone else install the setup, you miss much of the details.

So, why a spacer/donut? I'll let you figure that out.

Did the new caliper fix the howling problem? I'll stick my neck out and say, you probably still have the howling because you said your old caliper was releasing. If all the caliper hardware was there it should have equalized easily but you never answered the question about the rubbers or if you bought the calipers loaded. - Dave

[Yadkin]

I must have missed where we established that the calipers are from an S10. Or maybe my memory failed me yet again. I have a word document that I'm slowly adding to for the next owner of this car to help out and explain these modifications. Under this modification I wrote the model number for the caliper but not what vehicle it was made for. Now it has both.

I didn't see any reason to bend the tabs on the outer pad clips. The clips hold the pad in place so I can slide the caliper on and that works for me.

What you call a donut I guess I would call a washer. Or maybe you are referring to the adapter that increases the OD of the spindle to fit the ID of the new inboard bearing?

Regardless, problem resolved. I just test drove to O's to return the caliper core. No howling, no noise, no brake issues whatsoever.

Now onto the next issue.