Sat for five years, 59's time for new parts

[simplyconnected]

Aaron, these are the same issues we discussed years ago. The answers still remain the same.

If you are pulling your "A" arms off, it hardly makes sense to run on old rubber parts when they are eight bucks each.

I have honed my wheel cylinders with great success BUT new front wheel cylinders are only three bucks each, so why bother?

How do your old bearings look? Did you clean them well and inspect the rollers? If they look good there is no sense in changing them because new ones will look the same.

As John suggested, buy a Shop Manual. All the instructions are in there.

BTW, it looks like you deleted or moved your earlier pictures from photobucket. - Dave

[inheritance]

Here are some pics of the progress i made today, fighting the lower control arm bolts at the moment.

[Dakota Boy]

I wouldn't use cinder blocks in place of proper jackstands there.

[Guest]

Hi Aaron

I changed my 1960 to disc brakes. The project wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be. The Squarebirds are very helpful in every way. If I can be of any help in any way please let me know. Dave (simply connected) was very helpful. I used the Scarebird brackets, I had some difficulty with the plumbing. That was my fault, but I am ready to bleed the brakes. Then on the road for a test.

Larry

[WoodlandHills]

I wouldn't use cinder blocks in place of proper jackstands there.

If I was going to use the blocks, I would turn them around so that the cells are up and down, just like in a block wall. That way you at least have the full strength of the block.