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  • Big Dave
    Apprentice
    • Oct 4 2007
    • 43

    Smelly Bird

    So I just got my '58 back from storage after a move last summer. I'm planning on pulling the engine for cleaning/repair, but I (er, my wife) have a handful of projects planned before I dig into the bird.

    I only started the car briefly to back it into the garage, but the fumes are really strong two weeks later. It doesn't smell quite like gasoline, it's almost a solvent/lacquer smell. It's not a welcoming odor and the wife is complaining. Any clues to reducing the fumes? Should I drain the gas tank and carb? The gas is probably at least a couple years old.

    Thanks in advance!
  • tbird430
    Super-Experienced
    • Jun 18 2007
    • 2648

    #2
    It's sounds like old/bad gas smell. I'd run a box fan to move air OUTSIDE the garage. Then drain and remove the gas tank.

    It sound slike it would need to be cleaned out and resealed anyways before you start driving this bird....

    -Jon in TX.
    sigpic
    The 1960 Ford Thunderbird. The WORLD'S most wanted car....

    VTCI Member#6287.

    Comment

    • Big Dave
      Apprentice
      • Oct 4 2007
      • 43

      #3
      That's sound advice and I appreciate it. How hard is it to drain and remove the gas tank? Would you try to siphon the gas out the filler neck or open the petcock on the bottom of the tank?

      Comment

      • Anders
        Super-Experienced
        • Jan 19 2008
        • 2213

        #4
        Originally posted by Big Dave
        That's sound advice and I appreciate it. How hard is it to drain and remove the gas tank? Would you try to siphon the gas out the filler neck or open the petcock on the bottom of the tank?
        If you are to drain, I would suggest the one in the bottom. You might get more than gas out that way. I did.... My first idea would be to drive up the gas though ..... With or without your wife
        But I canīt see how this will take away any smell. I have never noticed that old gasoline smells different than new. I would opend the windows and park the car outside for a day, just to get as much circulation as possible.
        Also worth mension is that old cars always smells old cars. There could be a good idea to check if there is no leak anywhere. A year can make a big difference.
        Last edited by Anders; May 13, 2010, 03:43 PM.
        sigpic..."Lil darling Ruth":)
        http://www.tbirdregistry.com/#33158

        Comment

        • Guest

          #5
          At least these had drain plugs. Hopefully your gas gauge works. Just have a bigaenough container to catch it all. Had the same prob with mine

          Comment

          • Guest

            #6
            Hey Guys,
            I have had very good success out of STA-BIL. It is a fuel stabilizer. If gas is going to sit for several months, I add it to fuel! Helps keep fuel from souring, gumming and varnishing!
            Richard D. Hord

            Comment

            • simplyconnected
              Administrator
              • May 26 2009
              • 8787

              #7
              Old gas is BAD NEWS, and it stinks real bad when you burn it! Drain out as much as you possibly can before your carb and fuel line get gummed up. You still might go through a lot of fuel filters.

              New gas is hydroscopic, meaning it sucks up water. When it gets old, all the good stuff that burns, evaporates away leaving varnish. It's nasty.

              Richard Hord is right... if you're going to store your car for months, use Sta-bil. The absolute best thing is to empty your tank if you can, but most people don't.
              Member, Sons of the American Revolution

              CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

              "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
              --Lee Iacocca

              From: Royal Oak, Michigan

              Comment

              • Anders
                Super-Experienced
                • Jan 19 2008
                • 2213

                #8
                Originally posted by simplyconnected
                Old gas is BAD NEWS, and it stinks real bad when you burn it! When it gets old, all the good stuff that burns, evaporates away leaving varnish. It's nasty.
                Wow. I could never figure that out. Mine stinks as well, but I thought it was normal
                This will make my life tricky or as my car stands most of the time, and I have learned that in order to avoid rust in the tank it shall be full....
                Guess I have to get used to that smell Canīt afford not to...
                sigpic..."Lil darling Ruth":)
                http://www.tbirdregistry.com/#33158

                Comment

                • simplyconnected
                  Administrator
                  • May 26 2009
                  • 8787

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Anders Myrberg
                  ...Guess I have to get used to that smell Canīt afford not to...
                  I don't know how old your gas is, Anders, but if it is more than six months old, you can't afford to keep it in your T-bird.

                  PLEASE READ THIS:
                  OLD GAS AND GAS RECONDITIONINGYes and no. Gasoline tends to lose oxidation and deteriorate after 4-6 months of non-use and will be for the most part useless after 1 year. While it certainly will still ignite and burn, the octane content for any engines usability is severely diminished as well the gas at this point may have also become both moisture laden with water vapor, and or particulate matter if it was not in a full and sealed tank when last used. Any airspace in a gas tank or storage container (plastic or metal), allows for the collection of mosture over time which will also damage gas. Even sealed tanks such as your car have a pressure relief valve than allows some airflow in the tank thus allowing a vacuum to not occur in the tank. This small airflow over a long period of time, or during times of high air mositure, can lead to damaging moisture collection most primarily if the tank was less than full.Also stored gas can collect particulate matter, rust, dirt, etc., which can clog fuel lines, filters, and can harm both carburetors or fuel injectors. Old gas also creates what is called "gumming" or "varnish" which will cause clogging and sticking within carburetors or fuel injectors regardless of ignitability. If this problem occurs you might be faced with a carb rebuild and or injector servicing which can become costly.If your stored gas is a year or more old it is best to just empty it and take it to a hazardous waste recycling center in your area. This is typically a free service but you may have to make an appointment first. It is best to look it up in your phone book and or consult your local landfill office.To remove old gas from your car there are a few methods:GAS THAT IS OLD BY 6 MONTHS OR GREATER:GAS REMOVAL METHOD #1 (SIPHON) -- A : Go buy a siphon kit at your local auto store (they are typically less than $15.00) You will also need a big and long flathead screwdriver ~10-12". STEP 1: Remove your gas cap and first make sure to touch the screwdriver on some metal place on the car body first to de-static the screwdriver. (we don't want any explosions here! ) STEP 2: Slowly place the long screwdriver down into the gas hole to open the metal baffle / valve that is typically near the opening of the hole. STEP 3: Insert the suction tube end of your siphon / suction tube approximately 3 feet down into the bottom your gas tank. STEP 4: Place the other drain end of tubing into your storage container (such as a gas can or perhaps a clean 5 gallon paint bucket). STEP 5 : Pump the siphon handle and get the fuel flowing out of the tank. You may need to keep pumping to keep the fuel flowing. It is also best to try and have the storage container at a height below the fuel level of the gas tank as this aids in the siphon effect. STEP 6: Once the fuel seems to be drained out move your siphon tube in a few more inches in the tank (6-12"), re-pump, and then move the tube a few inches back and repump again to make sure you have removed 99% of the gas in your tank.GAS REMOVAL METHOD #2 -- (TANK REMOVAL) : The only other way to remove the gas would be to remove the gas tank completely from the vehicle which would require more skill, tools, jackstands, and a service manual. If you were to do this also be aware that a full or even half full tank will be quite heavy as one gallon of gas weighs 6lbs. Thus you may want to at least siphon out what you can first before removal. Just make sure not to pin yourself under the car with the gas tank! Also...drilling a hole in the bottom of the tank is not a good idea for obvious reasons!Next, take the old gas to your local hazardous waste center!GAS THAT IS OLD BY 6 MONTHs OR LESS:If your stored gas is aged 6 months or less then you can most likely re-use it or recondition it. There are gas additive products available to re-oxygenate old gas and aging / varnish prevention products such as STABIL to add to gas powered engines that you do not use often such as periodic use 4-stroke style lawnmowers and motorcycles.If the gas in a cars tank is 6 months or less old and is say half full or less then just fill up the remainder of the tank with fresh high octane gas first before driving and also add in some carb cleaner additive, OR fuel injector cleaner additive depending on your cars fuel mix / ignition system.Ideally it is best to recondition old gas with a ratio of 4 or 5 to 1 new to old. (4-5 parts new gas to 1 part old gas)CLEANING / FILTERING / RECONDITIONINGIf you have siphoned out the old gas first to more properly recondition it look for water in the gas which will separately pool in the bottom as water is heavier than gas. Also look for particles of dirt, rust, flakes, etc., that may also have collected. Next, get an old cotton t-shirt or paint sprayer filter (from a hardware store or Home Depot perhaps) and use either style cloth filters to transfer the gas into a clean container. Thus as you pour the gas make sure you are pouring it through the filter. Also, if you see water pooling in the old storage container then STOP your pouring before the water is transferred to your new "clean gas" container!! Then properly dispose of the remaining old gas that contains the water pool or beads.To recondition your newly filtered old gas add in the purchased additives as mentioned earlier and add in brand new gas in a ratio of 4-1 new to old so as to thin out the old gas with new gas. You can now reuse this gas in your 4 stroke engine car, motorcycle, lawnmower, go-cart, atv, boat, watercraft, etc. or could use it to make 2-stroke oil mixed gas.Please note that it is NOT recommended that you use reconditioned gas in any fuel injected engines but only in carbureted engines. This is due to the octane difference variables of your re-mixed gas and the computerized sensitivity of most all modern fuel injection systems.To avoid this hassle in the future drain or siphon out gas from any stored vehicle within 3 months and immediately use the gas in another running vehicle.If you are storing an engine over a season (such as winter for lawnmowers and motorcycles) then make sure to drain all the gas from both the tank AND fuel lines AND carbs OR make sure to add appropriate amounts of a product such as STABIL or STABIL-STORE to a FULL tank before storing it for the season. A full gas tank will also greatly help to keep moisture from building up because it leaves no airspace for water vapor to collect!It is also highly recommended to start the engine once each month and allow it to run for 10 minutes to get to normal operating temperature as this helps prevent other problems such as oil sludge build-up and cracking of things like gaskets and hoses and generally circulates all fluids.If you cannot get a stored engine running after having used fresh gas or reconditioned gas, first check your battery for sufficient charge, and it would also be a good idea to change the fuel filter if the car engine has over 100,000 miles. ( or 15k on a motorcycle) A fuel filter typically costs less than $20 for any car and is fairly easy to replace. There are obviously 1,000 other potential problems I cannot get into here so you may need a professional mechanics advice. In any case if any engine is NOT able to start this is only due to two basic reasons : FUEL or SPARK.Remember, any engine, just like your own body, needs routine clean fluids and routine exercise. Avoidance of this preventative maintenance principle can and will lead to much greater troubles and will always cost you more in the long run!


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                  Anders, this is serious business. If left too long, old gas WILL cost you far more than the price of a tank of gas. Just about every car site has lots of posts about old gas. - Dave
                  Member, Sons of the American Revolution

                  CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                  "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                  --Lee Iacocca

                  From: Royal Oak, Michigan

                  Comment

                  • Anders
                    Super-Experienced
                    • Jan 19 2008
                    • 2213

                    #10
                    Originally posted by simplyconnected
                    Point taken.
                    But that 1935 Mercedes.... Did they realy come with Moroso valve cover equipped V8īs from GM ?....
                    Last edited by Anders; May 14, 2010, 12:20 PM.
                    sigpic..."Lil darling Ruth":)
                    http://www.tbirdregistry.com/#33158

                    Comment

                    • Big Dave
                      Apprentice
                      • Oct 4 2007
                      • 43

                      #11
                      Thanks a bunch for all the replies. I guess I know why the carb is gooey and stinky. I checked this weekend and as Anders suggested, there were a couple of leaks on the underside of the tank. I patched the leaks and I think it'll hold until I drain/replace the tank.

                      Which leads me to my next question - the gas gauge says its 1/4 full. Assuming that's a reliable reading, how many gallons am I looking at draining?

                      Thanks!

                      Comment

                      • YellowRose
                        Super-Experienced


                        • Jan 21 2008
                        • 17231

                        #12
                        Smelly Bird

                        As I recall, our Squarebirds have a 20 gallon capacity. However, unless you know for sure that your fuel gauge is reading correctly, you could have anywhere from a full tank to nothing much left in the tank. Or about 5 gallons!

                        Ray Clark - Squarebirds Administrator
                        The Terminator..... VTCI #11178 ITC #6000 Yellow Mustang Registry (YMR) #12188
                        Contact me via Private Message for my email address, or Call (Cell) 210-875-1411

                        https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm
                        Faye's Ovarian Cancer Memorial Website.
                        https://faye.rayclark.info/index.html

                        Comment

                        • Guest

                          #13
                          Hey David,
                          You can remove the sending unit from the tank very easily and look and see how much gas you have. Under the trunk mat, in front of the spare tire well is a 4" opening. You will see a retaining ring, undo wire. Take large screw driver and hammer and gently tap ring loose. Righty tighty lefty loosey! Gently remove sending unit. Now you can see inside tank. ALWAYS WHEN WORKING AROUND GAS HAVE FIRE EXTINGUISHER NEAR!!!
                          Richard D. Hord

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