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  #21  
Old 08-26-2011, 04:25 AM
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I'm sure you used your volt meter to measure the regulator's output before you started... What voltage did you read?
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  #22  
Old 08-26-2011, 04:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
I'm sure you used your volt meter to measure the regulator's output before you started... What voltage did you read?
Uh-oh Dave, I goofed and never even thought about the multimeter - I did that bad thing and 'assumed' th eold CVT was bad...dang!

(looks like there's going to be some unscrewing of self-tappers again..)
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Old 08-26-2011, 05:23 AM
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That Multimeter can save you lots of unnecessary pain and time.

Use the DC scale for measuring voltage on live wires.
Use the OHM scale to measure resistance on dead wires or car body. <--This will indicate if your grounds are good (like on your fuel tank). Lower numbers (resistance) mean a better ground.
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Old 08-26-2011, 05:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
That Multimeter can save you lots of unnecessary pain and time.

Use the DC scale for measuring voltage on live wires.
Use the OHM scale to measure resistance on dead wires or car body. <--This will indicate if your grounds are good (like on your fuel tank). Lower numbers (resistance) mean a better ground.
So...one wire going into CVT would be 12V and the other SHOULD be???
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Old 08-26-2011, 06:06 AM
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The old regulators used contacts that opened and closed, giving an AVERAGE of six volts. Your meter will see it as 12-volts, then zero, then 12-volts, etc.

The newer solid state regulators output a real six volts DC.

The regulator's case needs a good electrical connection to the body.
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  #26  
Old 08-26-2011, 06:11 AM
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Is this a replacement CVR? Is it an original type or a solid state type? The original types sold by the vendors are Chinese JUNK! I say that after much experience. There's a few ways to go solid state, and that's the only way to go. Google it, you'll find the answer. Good luck, Bob C
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