Tube to nowhere?

[Anders]

A little update how I solve this. First I made a aluminium piece in my lathe, and have it welded into the carburator spacer. Then I made another in steel, that I also drilled out in the back, so it didnīt came out too heavy, with a tight slightly coned end to get a nice fit and pressed that in gently and to avoid leak, and gave it a few spot welds to keep it in place. ( The part that goes into the manifold was not possible to take out, so this was my only option ) In between, I placed the PCV valve. Pretty easy installation. Hope to get less fumes while driving as well as less oil on the garage floor

[NYsquarebird58]

Would it make sense to plumb this into the air cleaner housing instead of using the carb spacer?

[Guest]

Hey Anders,
Looks great!
Richard D. Hord

[Anders]

Would it make sense to plumb this into the air cleaner housing instead of using the carb spacer?

I have changed the Oil filler cap/ventilation to a closed model with a pipe on itīs side, and connected that one to the Air Cleaner Housing.

[simplyconnected]

Anders, which direction does the arrow point (on the side of the PCV valve)? Did you push the hose over the threads on one side of the valve? Rockauto.com sells PCV valves that have push-on hose fittings on both sides. One example is the, STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part #V112. This valve goes on a 1978 Pontiac with a 350 cubic inch engine.




Marcelo, using the air cleaner is a 'passive' vent system that doesn't use a PCV valve. It is still another good way to reburn block gasses. They usually come off the valve cover with a cap that has a hose connection and it leads to the side or bottom of the air cleaner. I like the kind with the small filter on the inside of the air cleaner to trap oil and solids. Even though the passive system doesn't work as well, I really like it because it never messes with the fuel mixture. - Dave

[Anders]

Anders, which direction does the arrow point (on the side of the PCV valve)? Did you push the hose over the threads on one side of the valve? Rockauto.com sells PCV valves that have push-on hose fittings on both sides. One example is the, STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part #V112. This valve goes on a 1978 Pontiac with a 350 cubic inch engine.




Marcelo, using the air cleaner is a 'passive' vent system that doesn't use a PCV valve. It is still another good way to reburn block gasses. They usually come off the valve cover with a cap that has a hose connection and it leads to the side or bottom of the air cleaner. I like the kind with the small filter on the inside of the air cleaner to trap oil and solids. Even though the passive system doesn't work as well, I really like it because it never messes with the fuel mixture. - Dave

I looked and looked, but the was no arrow. Only stamped text "Made in USA". But I put the "open" direction towards the carb, and the "lock" is opposite. Yes, I pushed the hose over the treads. Itīs a pretty tight fit all over, and as there is not realy a hard pressure, I figure I donīt needed hose clamps. The model I choosed suppose to be for 1962-1964 Thunderbirds, and as my Engine is from 1964 I figure this would work.

[simplyconnected]

Look very close for a 'flow arrow'. Your installation is correct if you tried blowing hard into the hose end, and flow stopped going out the threaded end. This is to prevent carburetor backfire from injecting raw fuel mixture into your block. So, one safety function of this valve is to work just like a 'check valve'. In the old days, mechanics would shake the valve. If the pindle inside rattled, they considered the valve as 'good'. Not so... there is also a spring inside that can break. The spring's job is to 'center' the pindle. The only way I know to test the PCV valve is by blowing into each end.

This may be a stupid question but if the inlet has threads, why not screw it directly into your intake manifold? Then, you would only need one hose.

I was looking on rockauto.com for the PCV valve you used but could not find it. Instead, they show:
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part #V100
That probably means YOUR part, the one made in USA, is the LAST one in existence and it was overtaken by the CHINESE V100 version. (That has been the trend for decades over here.)

[Anders]

Look very close for a 'flow arrow'. Your installation is correct if you tried blowing hard into the hose end, and flow stopped going out the threaded end. This is to prevent carburetor backfire from injecting raw fuel mixture into your block. So, one safety function of this valve is to work just like a 'check valve'. In the old days, mechanics would shake the valve. If the pindle inside rattled, they considered the valve as 'good'. Not so... there is also a spring inside that can break. The spring's job is to 'center' the pindle. The only way I know to test the PCV valve is by blowing into each end.

This may be a stupid question but if the inlet has threads, why not screw it directly into your intake manifold? Then, you would only need one hose.

I was looking on rockauto.com for the PCV valve you used but could not find it. Instead, they show:
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part #V100
That probably means YOUR part, the one made in USA, is the LAST one in existence and it was overtaken by the CHINESE V100 version. (That has been the trend for decades over here.)

I promice. There is no arrow. I looked realy careful as I expected it. But your explanations tells me that I have it in the right direction. I never found any place where the treads could fit. Never the less, itīs a pretty clean instalation, and also easy to check ( and change ) if there will be problems later on. I could not tread it into the metal adaptor I did, as itīs pretty much impossible to get these big size tread tools in inch here. And I canīt measure it either. Metric is simple. It starts from zero and goes up like 1-2-3-4 etc...Inch is like a riddle

[KULTULZ]

There are two types of PCV Systems, OPEN (early) which used the oil filler cap with filter as the crankcase fresh air inlet, and the later CLOSED System (late) which sourced fresh air from an enclosed air cleaner assembly (to prevent reversion crankcase fumes from entering the atmosphere).

Just having a hose from the rocker cover to the AC ASM without a PCV valve only allows crankcase pressure to escape and not burn the vented fumes through the ignition process.

An engine has to have either a ROAD DRAFT SYSTEM or a POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM.

What you did is clean and simple, although I would try to find a PCV valve with nipples on either end. Also, this requires special hose which is PCV rated (FORD Basic PN 6A664) for vacuum/suction and able to withstand crankcase fumes without deteriorating.

BTW- Valves are calibrated to the design flow rate of the system. Orifice size chosen can upset designed carburetor balance.

[Anders]

There are two types of PCV Systems, OPEN (early) which used the oil filler cap with filter as the crankcase fresh air inlet, and the later CLOSED System (late) which sourced fresh air from an enclosed air cleaner assembly (to prevent reversion crankcase fumes from entering the atmosphere).

Just having a hose from the rocker cover to the AC ASM without a PCV valve only allows crankcase pressure to escape and not burn the vented fumes through the ignition process.

An engine has to have either a ROAD DRAFT SYSTEM or a POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM.

What you did is clean and simple, although I would try to find a PCV valve with nipples on either end. Also, this requires special hose which is PCV rated (FORD Basic PN 6A664) for vacuum/suction and able to withstand crankcase fumes without deteriorating.

BTW- Valves are calibrated to the design flow rate of the system. Orifice size chosen can upset designed carburetor balance.

My hose is the same quality ( its possible to read on one picture ) as for fuel lines. The PCV is, as far as I know and understand, for 1962-1964 Thunderbird 390-426 engine ( will try to find my sourse ).
EDIT: This is where I first found it http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....~~~~~~0000051d
Then, I order this item from a vendor here in Sweden( http://www.norrlandscustom.se/ ) and got the one one I now have, that suppose to be the same.

[KULTULZ]

You should be OK then on the hose type-

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/GATR/27019/N0927.oap?ck=Search_N0927_GAT_-1_-1&mn=Gates&mc=GAT&pt=N0927&ppt=C0222

[simplyconnected]

...EDIT: This is where I first found it http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....~~~~~~0000051d
Then, I order this item from a vendor here in Sweden( http://www.norrlandscustom.se/ ) and got the one one I now have, that suppose to be the same.

That same part is under $2.00 at rockauto.com. Check it out.

[Anders]

That same part is under $2.00 at rockauto.com. Check it out.

I payed..................................................like, and hold your hat now, around 30 dollar here. But I usually donīt buy from Swedish vendors. Only if Iīm in a hurry and canīt wait. Iīm quite lucky as we have a office in Camarillo, Ca, and I pretty much always buy my parts from US and have them send it to the office, and then someone brings it over as we have people going back and forth most of the time.

[Anders]

You should be OK then on the hose type-

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0927&ppt=C0222

Thanks. I needed that confirmation