new to site

[Guest]

While i am new to site beginning/ finnishing restoration/restomod of 63bird started this with my(pop) grandfather about 15 years ago painted stored in garage on jack stands entire time aside from carb witch was used on 64 concourse car i figure pull engine replace gakets and seals due to time sittting want to update to modern ignition system alt possible fuel injection after front disc upgrade any tips hints suggestions would be appreciated.also helped him restore concourse car so not first bird work Alsoed on have 62 manual and 63 shop supplement

[simplyconnected]

Jeff, I can't think of a more wonderful project between you and your Grandfather. Welcome to Squarebirds.org.

We love hearing stories about family and how they come together to resurect another great Thunderbird. You are starting out right by having the manuals. They are great for detailed reference.

If you have specific questions for your project, or simply want to tell stories about it, we would love to hear more. We like to see pictures as well. - Dave

[Guest]

than

"Pop" passed away in april2000 promised him I wouldn't let mom sell it finally landed job where both time and money (c
Funny hard to find both) will allow me to finnish nephew who will be helping me shares his birthday bird only has 30,000 original miles some weather stripping needs to be replaced around trunk also saw on some posts gas tank a good idea how to fit c4 in sounds good

[Guest]

re 390 rebuild

Dave good pics ton of great info I rember when we were looking for new rocker shafts and found out" daily driver" was not a64 390 but a 66 police intercepter engine but cam gear while had all of its teeth stress cracks made us realize the need for coyles true roller thank you again. JEFF

[Guest]

Penelope's 390FE

Dave was just checking out web site found 1539 FordFE pdf all sorts of cool stuff almost to the point that goodol FE is becoming more like the small block chevy every thing is out there now not sure if you saw this site started out with 390FE rebuild

[simplyconnected]

You're so right, Jeff. But you need to be very careful when swapping parts. The FE engine was designed to be made for specific service. Crankshafts and many other parts can be swapped. But Ford made major changes along the way.

By far, the 390 was the most plentiful engine. Ford used it in many car and truck lines. That ensures parts are very available and big aftermarket vendors will make parts to fit for years to come. There must be fifty different combinations of intake manifolds and heads so watch out for fitment. EBay is full of new FE parts.

You mentioned a True Roller Chain Set. The best value I found so far is from Summitracing.com. They have their house brand, a true double roller set for $38.00. It won't fit a Squarebird FE unless the cam is changed and two holes are drilled and topped into the block, but it fits all the 390's.

Edelbrock (God bless them) make excellent aluminum heads for the FE, and an intake manifold to match. The heads will NOT fit the 352 but they will a 390 and above. Edelbrock valves are very large so they need the extra cylinder real estate for clearance. - Dave

[Guest]

390 rebuild

Just a thought since I will most likely be rebuilding mine open up oiling system prior to hot tank plenty of machine shops here on L.I. know of one that did a 355 straight6 that local track later" outlawed" due to" unfair advantage" local guy is chevy guy 76camaro with 283 would pull front wheels but looking for ford shop

[simplyconnected]

Again, be careful when choosing your engine machine shop. FE engines are NOT like Chevy's. The oiling system is strange to them and there are many details that need your full attention.

One of the most common problems in a new rebuild is, zero oil pressure. All the plugs need to be installed, oil modifications need to be done and the rocker shafts must oil each separate valve stem.

Look around Long Island for any Ford clubs and ask them where the FE mechanics are. Then go from there.

I cannot imagine hot tanking a block without stripping it CLEAN, first. That means every plug and cap is out before dipping. - Dave

[Joe Johnston]

I had a reputable local shop rebuild my 312 and 390 engines. I asked each time if they were familiar with them, as the area is a GM town and most of their work is on chebbies. They showed me software on file which lists almost every engine made from small to large, and all the facts, specs, interchangable parts, modifications, as well as explaining all the commonly printed mistakes that have shown up in the publications over the years. It was very interesting to read about the published assembly errors for Y-Blocks and FE's. True, these engines are not SMC's, but a reputable shop should have no problems and be able to perform any modifications you are willing to pay for!

Good luck and enjoy the ride!

[simplyconnected]

first I had some trouble with cold start. The problem was very simple and had to do with the push-rods. A drop of oil fixed it... ...Then I had to drive carefully because the new engine had to brake in...

This scares me.
After a major overhaul, every engine should operate even better than new. Back then, we used 1960 technology in our methods and components. Since then, component materials have vastly improved and all engines are rebuilt by hand, not on a production line.

Initial tuning should solve cold start problems. If this engine was overhauled properly there should be no oiling issues.

I still say, get a machine shop that is very familiar with FE engines because they are different. - Dave

[Guest]

re 390 rebuild

Dave. Understand completely was thinking along the line of opening up oilpump passage and main journals how much did your shop have to take off in line hone stock size bearins for main journals or+ 10 just making notes have to replace rotting garage doors before work can start. No sense dropping door on bird as all paint and body work has already been done. Thank you again have to make some calls as friend and cousin have several birds for machine work recommendations

[simplyconnected]

Jeff, interesting that you ask. Think about this: If you remove 0.010" from the crank, that's only five thousandths on each side. Five thousandths (.010" total) is only needed to clean up the surface and to make sure it's round. So, +10 bearings.

There is another consideration: Bearing caps tend to get tighter for some reason at the very bottom, but not so much at the bolt holes. So, the machine shop hones them back into specification. This doesn't take much metal removal. Main bearings should have .0015" clearance. That's one and one-half thousandths clearance. My 292 Y-block mains looked like new so I ordered +/-0" (std) bearing inserts. When I installed them, the crank was so tight I couldn't turn it with a wrench!

I realize the engine is 'seasoned' but, c'mon. Then my machine shop told me that this bearing cap tightness happens to practically all old engines. If I didn't see it for myself...

They call it, 'align bore' but in reality, they lightly hone the bearing saddles and caps. When finished you can see, metal was only removed from the top and bottom but not from the sides where the bolts go through. - Dave