NYsquarebird58's Brake System Overhaul and Disc Brake Conversion

[NYsquarebird58]

You've got the hard vacuum line coming out of the manifold - through the old right angle check valve - then it went to the "T" on top of the old booster. The line off the other side of the booster continued on to the reserve tank in the inner fender. You access the reserve tank by taking out the splash shield from inside the drivers side wheel well.

You "can" leave the reserve tank out but I don't think I would. It allows 2-3 additional power assisted stops should the engine quit and you are still rolling. After that it would just be like having non power assisted brakes - still work but more pedal pressure needed - a lot more.

Eric

this post has a pic of the tank but at the moment I can't find one with the tank installed location. (page1)
http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin...reserve&page=3

Will any vacuum reservoir tank do? I found this one on summit racing. Perhaps I can bypass the one that's hidden behind the fender and mount a smaller one under the hood, like the ones that hotrodders use when they're running big cams and power brakes.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-3701/

[YellowRose]

NYsquarebird58's Brake System Overhaul and Disc Brake Conversion

I am not sure I understand the problem here, but I can tell you how Howard and I handled our disc brake conversion. If you have the under dash Kelsey-Hayes unit, leave it in place, including the connection to the reserve tank behind the inner fender. So we left the hose that was connected to that reserve tank hooked up, and are using it also. It has not caused either one of us any problems. If you don't have the under dash KH unit, and still have a hose going to a reserve tank behind that inner fender, I would continue to use it. If this is not what is being discussed, just disregard this...

[simplyconnected]

Marcelo's new brake booster includes plenty of reservoir. Since he is retrofitting an electric wiper system, his Squarebird will have nothing else that runs on vacuum. Eric is right about not needing two check valves. Having more than one lowers the available vacuum.

To prove this out, simply remove the manifold check valve and run one vacuum hose to the booster. While the car is moving down a secluded road, shut off the engine and see how many brake pedal pumps it takes to stop. Now do the same test in your modern car.

Modern cars don't have 'extra' reservoirs because they are much more efficient than systems from the '50's. Modern systems also output my hundreds of pounds more assist. Marcelo's IS a modern system in every way.

I've been thinking about the space the old reservoir populates. It could be used for a new electric windshield washer reservoir. The new electric wiper switch already offers a contact closure when pressed in. That could energize a wash motor in a modern car reservoir. Bone yards throw them out daily. - Dave

[DKheld]

Thanks Dave - was not familiar with the new boosters having built in reserve but that's great.

Marcelo - your tank should still be there in the drivers side inner fender (that other hose). Mine still works fine and like Ray mentioned - I'd just use it (until all the use runs out of it )

Wish I had a pic of the thing showing where it is installed but all I can find is the one of it out by itself. Maybe someone has a parts book that shows it or a pic of theirs still installed.

Eric

[simplyconnected]

Remember this?

...The Booster was filled with brake fluid!
...

The old reservoir may be filled with brake fluid, too.
Regardless, I still wouldn't use it because it serves no real purpose and it's just another thing that can go bad. None of my brake systems use a separate reservoir.

Here's a generic Ford vacuum setup... - Dave

[NYsquarebird58]

Doing a parts inventory check for tomorrow's rear brake job. Once this is done, all that is left is to finish plumbing the brake lines and fill and bleed the system.

[NYsquarebird58]

Rear drums are done!

[Guest]

Looks good ...

You probably have, but not a bad idea to put a little anti-seize on the adjuster threads. Mike

[simplyconnected]

I would like to see closeup pics of the wear pads on the backing plates. - Dave

[NYsquarebird58]

I would like to see closeup pics of the wear pads on the backing plates. - Dave

Unfortunately, I didn't take close up pictures of the wear pads specifically, but here's a picture of the backing plate after I brushed off all the loose brake dust.

[Guest]

I usually sqweez those spring closed a little up top

[tbird430]

That looks great in back!!

A difference you will surely tell & feel (plus those front disc added).

-Jon in TX.

[Anders]

I donīt know if any of these helps, but I thru them in anyway. Canīt hurt as I see it....

[RustyNCa]

Will any vacuum reservoir tank do? I found this one on summit racing. Perhaps I can bypass the one that's hidden behind the fender and mount a smaller one under the hood, like the ones that hotrodders use when they're running big cams and power brakes.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-3701/

Yeah, does the same thing as the one in the fender. I am running that exact tank on our Oldsmobile, for the exact reason you mentioned. It only pulls 7 or 8 pounds of vacuum at idle, not enough to keep the power brakes fed for more than one pedal pump. So far it has solved the problem with the olds brakes.

You know our 65 tbirds have two vacuum res cans under the hood, which makes sense. It has vacuum door locks, release for the parking brake, lock for the slide away steering wheel, I assume mode doors on the heater, in addition the brakes. I haven't traced it out, but I think Ford separated the systems, hence the two cans.

[KULTULZ]

I donīt know if any of these helps, but I thru them in anyway. Canīt hurt as I see it....

That BIRD is lucky to have you. Nice detail work...