1960 Convertible Restoration

[jhenry]

I am about to commence on a ground-up restoration of this interesting 1960 convertible. The car spent most of it's life in Southern CA and still carries it's black plates issued in 1963. It has been in the same family for over 40 years and is virtually rust free, having been stored for many of those years. It is well optioned with power windows, power steering & brakes, leather interior, tinted glass, and power driver AND passenger seats. My plan is to do a concours nuts-and-bolts restoration over the next year which will return the car to its original Platinum Metallic exterior and black leather interior. I have done similar restorations on '62 and '65 convertibles over the past few years, but this is the first square bird I have attempted, (although I have owned a '59 Skyliner for 38 years). If you guys are interested I would be happy to share the experience and post updates from time to time as work progresses.

[jopizz]

I'm sure most of our members would enjoy seeing the progress of your restoration. It looks like you have a very solid car to start off with. We've had a few threads dealing with restorations but I don't know if we've had one that's a true nut and bolt concours restoration. Please feel free to post as many pictures as possible. And of course feel free to ask as many questions as you like. All my early builds were done for concours judging. Carl Heller (partsetal) still does true concours restorations and is a great reference not just for parts but for knowledge of what's correct and incorrect.

John

[jhenry]

Yes John, the car is extremely solid with all original sheet metal. The drivetrain is also original to the car. The previous owner back in the 70's was a member of VTCA and had collected many NOS parts that I obtained with the car, some of which will come in handy as I trouble shoot the top mechanism!

[Wudro]

I'll sign up for that! Good Luck on the Resto. Post pics and anything else of interest.

[jopizz]

Make sure you check out the Technical Resource Library. There is a wealth of info in there including all the wiring diagrams and the convertible top troubleshooting guide. I've had many '60 convertibles so don't hesitate to ask questions.

John

[jhenry]

Make sure you check out the Technical Resource Library. There is a wealth of info in there including all the wiring diagrams and the convertible top troubleshooting guide. I've had many '60 convertibles so don't hesitate to ask questions.

John

Yes, I've been to the "Library" and found a wealth of useful info there! I particularly found the info on the windshield washer system quite enlightening. This car had them but all of the underhood parts were removed. However, among the parts that came with the car was an NOS pump assembly which I intend to use to get the system operational.

[jhenry]

The first job was to get the top working which was accomplished after a few nights work. There were 3 intermittent relays, a defective limit switch, low fluid level, and a broken wire in the deck unlock circuit. (Fortunately, the broken wire held long enough to get the deck unlocked!) To complicate matters, the 10 relays were not in the locations indicated in the manual.

The broken wire was traced to the right deck hinge area...

[jhenry]

Today, while troubleshooting the fuel gauge, I discovered a lot of rusty sediment in the gas tank. Has anyone here had any luck cleaning and internally coating their tank? Or am I better off just getting a replacement?

[YellowRose]

1960 Convertible Restoration

Jerry, I went the cleaning and coating route on my gas tank after I first got the car. I had it done by a professional and it lasted about a year, and then it started leaking. So I had to buy a new one. I would suggest that you do that. You can find them for slightly under $200. In fact, Rock Auto sells them for $174.99 and they give us a 5% discount when ordered online. Here are a couple of links to it, and the gas tank is made by Spectra, a Canadian company who makes all the Tbird gas tanks. Which ever way you go, run a good ground wire from the flange of the tank to the body frame. Make sure you do not drill into the tank body.... Clean that area of the frame where you are going to drill at to make sure you get a really good ground connection. I think Dave~simplyconnected can tell you what sized wire, #10 or #14, but I have forgotten..

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/f...ng.com+URL+%2F

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....336632&jsn=411

[jhenry]

Thanks guys. Looks like I'll be going with a new tank!

Ray, how do you get the 5% discount?

[jopizz]

Here's the link to the Advertisements section for the discount.

http://squarebirds.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=20093

John

[simplyconnected]

I agree with Ray. Use whatever wire and crimp terminals you have in stock. I have an abundance of blue terminals. They fit either #14 or #16 stranded wire. Yellow terminals fit #10 or #12. With all my terminals the eyelet should fit a #10 screw. In this case, current is very low (under an amp) and the tank really doesn't vibrate. So, use what you have in your box; yellow or blue terminals and #10 thru #16 copper stranded wire.

Try to avoid steel screws and nuts. Stainless is the grand-daddy followed closely by brass. Use lock washers if you have them and make your connections tight.

When I bought my '55 troubles pointed to the gas tank. I opened it and scooped out FIVE heaping handfuls of rust.

My new Spectra fuel tank arrived a few days later, just like OEM with a tin coating inside and out. Because it gets used, there is no rust after owning it now for a number of years. Also, gasohol sucks up water faster than Scotch.

The old gas formula floated on top of water, which presented different problems. Remember buying, 'dry gas'? It's ethanol. People in Northern states would get 'gas line freeze' from water. - Dave

[Tbird1044]

I know mine was probably the one in a thousand, but I'll throw this out there anyways. I installed my new tank and didn't want to put gas in it until I was ready to start using the car more. I just used a small boat gas tank to move it around. The day came when I finally did put gas in the tank and I was in the garage and kept smelling gas. Looked under the car and gas was dripping from fuel line connection. ;-(( Tightened the fitting and couldn't stop the leak. I finally drained the tank and did a very low pressure test with soap and found the soldered fitting leaking where the fuel line connects. Had to take it to a radiator shop and have the tank cleaned and soldered. Cost me an extra $60. They say they test the tanks before shipping, but something sure failed with mine. Might warrant a test prior to installation.
Note: If there is one pit in a cherry pie, I will get it.
Nyles

[arizonajack]

Cost me an extra $60. They say they test the tanks before shipping, but something sure failed with mine.

I'd be looking to the seller for reimbursement of that $60.

[simplyconnected]

Send the radiator shop's bill to the fuel tank manufacturer. You bought the tank in good faith with the assurance that the manufacturer's quality was good. Sixty bucks to them is a small price to keep a happy customer. - Dave