Tweet
I spent something like 5 hours today trying to remove the rear brake drums on my '59. They remain in place, unbudged, as though to mock me. Shouldn't they just pull off with the wheel removed? I already adjusted the shoes in all the way and can turn the wheel by hand, so the shoes aren't the problem. If I stick a screwdriver between the drum and the rear plate and pry, I can see the drum moving up the stud, but it is clearly still stuck at the center. I've used lots of rust-eater, several hammers and punches, and even a bit of heat from a propane torch. How do I get these things off? :-(
-
-
RE: Stuck brake drums!!
do you have a drum puller J.C. Whitney sells them we use them on old Plymouths three foot pedestal with a center screw you turn with a ratchet then the drum pops off.
-
RE: Stuck brake drums!!
1. Make sure emergency brake cable is disengaged.
2. Use WD40 or other lubercant around all the studs
3. Use WD40 around the center of the drum.(Actully the axle) This is where they usually stick.
4. Use hammer in between each stud. Then slowly work your way further out from there.
(Do not hit the studs unless you have the lugs on about 1-2 turns.
Understand that the more you hit the more likely you are to create a serious run-out problem
They are probably rusted on around the axle and behind the drum.
If/When you get them off use "anti-ceaze" behind the drum on the axle shafts and on the the center of the shaft where it centers the drum.
If this does not work you may have to pull of the entire axle and work at it from behind.
Also if you get any fluids on the shoes they will need to be replaced.
Good Luck
Comment
-
RE: Stuck brake drums!!
what do you mean by "run out?" I have hit the drums a lot.... To give you an idea of what I'm dealing with, when I took the wheel off the driver side drum, there was no visual separation between the drum and the axle. It looked like the whole thing was one cast piece. I don't want to buy it but it's looking like one of those pullers is going to be my only hope....
Comment
-
RE: Stuck brake drums!!
I have had success in removing stuck rear drums by using a wire brush to clear away as much rust as possible where the center section of the axle flange protrudes thru the drum, and applying penetrating oil to this joint. Then using the straw on the spray can I squirt into the space around each stud in an attempt to get fluid between the flange and the backside of the drum. I then use a large headed punch and strike the drum around each stud to jar it loose, alternating with more penetrating oil and more blows. On some particularly stubborn ones I've taken my air chisel and using a blunt tip, hammered the areas around each stud, applying more penetrant as I go. When you see the penetrant dissapear from the cavity around a stud you will know you're making progress. In some cases damage to the drum was unavoidable, but I've been able to remove them all.
Carl
Comment
-
RE: Stuck brake drums!!
>I spent something like 5 hours today trying to remove the
>rear brake drums on my '59. They remain in place, unbudged,
>as though to mock me. Shouldn't they just pull off with the
>wheel removed? I already adjusted the shoes in all the way
>and can turn the wheel by hand, so the shoes aren't the
>problem. If I stick a screwdriver between the drum and the
>rear plate and pry, I can see the drum moving up the stud,
>but it is clearly still stuck at the center. I've used lots
>of rust-eater, several hammers and punches, and even a bit
>of heat from a propane torch. How do I get these things
>off? :-(
Use a heat wrench!
Without applying enough heat to warp the drum or remove the temper, take a torch and make circular passes on the drum face a half inch or so from the axle hub. Remember brake drums can take a lot of heat so don't be shy.
Using heat you will expand the hold around the axle hub and it should come right off assuming your linings are backed off like you said.
Sometimes the drums actually rusted to the axle hubs.
Comment
-
RE: Stuck brake drums!!
Forgive me if I'm ignorant here, but I've made this mistake before myself on my '88 Caravan. I can't rememeber from when I did my brakes a couple of years ago, but aren't all 4 drums held on my a single center nut? I seem to remember having to re-pack all 4 wheel bearings, but as I said I don't remember for sure. At any rate, if that's the case and you haven't removed that nut, all the banging and heat in the world isn't going to help.
Of course the fact that several others have already commented and failed to menton this, probably means I'm mistaken. :-P
Comment
-
RE: Stuck brake drums!!
I have had this proble with parts cars. The place they rust is to the axle hub. Can be very frustrating to remove. I have had a lot of success by pruing between the backing plate and the drum. I put 2 screw drivers or pry bars that can be inserted between the drum and the backing plate. This allows outward pressure on the drum. I them hit the center of the rear axle with a large hammer with stong blows making sure not to hit the edges and peen over the axle outer edge.
This works all the time for me even with brake shoes that are stuck.
Good Luck
Fuz
58's&64's
Sun Prairie, Wi.
Comment
-
RE: Stuck brake drums!!
The front drums are held on by large nuts to the spindle and the lugs are part of the drum. The rear drums slip over the studs and are essentially held in place by the tire when it is mounted.
1958 Hardtop
#8452 TBird Registry
http://tbird.info/registry/DataSheet...r~equals~8452)
photo: http://www.squarebirds.org/users/joh...d_June2009.jpg
history:
http://www.squarebirds.org/users/johng/OCC.htmComment
-
RE: Stuck brake drums!!
Wow, I really appreciate all the help on this! Can't wait for my next opportunity to put your suggestions to the test.
A question for Fuz: how did you keep your two screwdrivers/prybars in place while you swung the hammer?
Comment
-
RE: Stuck brake drums!!
Thanks John for setting me straight. I figured I was mistaken.
I remember sitting out in my apartment complex parking lot trying to change the rear brakes on my '88 Caravan banging away at those drums, scratching my head, muttering under my breath and trying not to swear. When I finally broke down and looked at my service manual, I felt rather stupid.
Comment
-
RE: Stuck brake drums!!
Finally, success!!! I was so pleased at successfully (and easily) removing these drums that I had to share. After having given up on these months ago, I made a new attempt with a new method and had both drums off in an hour. Here's what I did:
With the wheel off, I adjusted the brake shoes out as far as they would go, somewhat locking the drum from rotating. I threaded on all 5 nuts far enough to protect the stud. Next I stuck a very large chisel in between 2 or 3 of the studs at a time, and struck the extended part of the chisel with a rubber mallet. With the drum locked, the whack to the chisel rotated only the axle, which broke the seized part at the hub. I turned the hub both clockwise and counter-clockwise this way (it can only move a couple degrees in either direction). At this point I expected the drum to pull right off, but it still didn't, so I stuck a large screwdriver behind the drum and pried a little just to pull the drum forward, then repeated the chisel technique. The rotation with the outward pressure on the drum soon worked the drum free from the hub. I had to clean up the drum and hub thoroughly to make it fit back together smoothly without sticking again. For the second drum, I used the same procedure except that I didn't bother expanding the shoes, thinking the sharp impact might be able to break the drum free by itself. I was right. It was so easy, I don't know why I didn't think to try it before!!
I hope this helps someone the next time they're fighting with difficult drums! What's more, no components were damaged in the process.
Comment
Comment