Ray Clark

[Randy]

I notice you like to play with radios , Thought you like see a swell old Westinghouse (1948) That my lovely Bride and I rescue from
off to the dump,from a few years ago , cleaned it up, got it going, its
has thick mahogany wood veneer, its a fine pice of furniture. Am.
FM.SW1.SW2.Phono. and hide away sub-woofer. that's swell !
.
....https://www.flickr.com/photos/126764...57650638500122

[YellowRose]

Ray Clark

Randy, what a beautiful work of art that is! Beautiful wood work and styling! And I gather you have it playing! You don't see many like that anymore! That is something to enjoy and be proud of. Thanks for sharing the information and pix with us! That brings back memories of my youth, with the family gathered around the old radio listening to the old shows back then...

[simplyconnected]

It's a super heterodyne six volt (tube heaters) radio with push-pull (6L6G) output tubes. Each output tube amplifies 1/2 of the sine wave. This was 'big time' back then because most radios had very low volume by comparison.

The speakers are not permanent magnet. They have their own electromagnets. Be careful, some of those transformers and tubes are pushing over 700 Volts. They produce enough heat to warm up the whole room.

I love seeing the old brands, like those six volt light bulbs... 'TS-51 or TS-44' stands for Tung-Sol, who also made turn signal flasher units and sealed beams for all the cars back then.

Nice piece, Randy. - Dave

[Randy]

yes it plays and sound surprising very good i'm still haven't got the 1960 Gerrard 210 phono ready to go in, it well be a lot better than what was in it, it no wonder the records would get scratch up
i still like to spin, for the house I spin with a 1974 technics 3300.
back to Westinghouse and my first assignment was this

Randy,

Better lighted video and picture. What I was seeing in your previous pictures was just shadows apparently. Though I see better that white color wire that is not original for the 120V to the power switch.

As for the stiffness of the wire leads of the transformer that is not unusual. As long as you do not physically move them around they are more than likely just fine.

I would not buy a new transformer just yet. I would first just take some resistance readings of the 4 windings of the power transformer. 117V Primary, High voltage secondary winding, 5 volt filament secondary winding for the 5u4 rectifier tube, and 6.3 volt secondary winding for the filaments for the rest of the tubes.

First thing you will need to do is pull all the tubes. Make sure you mark each for its' respective socket you pull it from, even if the number is still visible to read. I would have all the tubes tested to make sure they are good before reinstalling them. Hopefully none test shorted.

Next unplug the male connector from the chassis that feeds the 12 inch speaker.

Next thing you will need to do is break, unsolder, the two transformer leads that are bonded, soldered, to the metal chassis. One wire is the center tap of the high voltage secondary winding, the other lead is one of the 6.3V filament secondary winding of the power transformer. Be extremely careful not to over work the wires when you unsolder them from the chassis tab. The metal chassis tab is just above the 5u4 tube socket. Or looking at your last picture just to the left of the 5u4 tube socket.
The 2 wires need to be separated from one another and left floating from the metal chassis.

You should now be ready to take some resistance/continuity readings.

Start first with the high voltage secondary winding.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126764621@N05/16260964667/in/photostream/lightbox/

First check for resistance between pins 4 and 6 on the 5u4 tube socket, these are the high voltage leads. Then check for resistance from each pin, 4 and 6, to one of the transformer leads you unsoldered from the chassis. One sold measure resistance, the other should not. The one that reads resistance is the center tap, CT, of the high voltage winding. Next check for continuity/resistance from pin 4, 6, and CT, to the metal chassis of the radio. You should not read continuity.

Next measure for resistance of the 5V filament winding of the transformer, pins 2 and 8 on the 5u4 tube socket. You should read resistance. Next measure for resistance/continuity from 2 or 8 to pins 4 or 6, you should not measure resistance or continuity.
Next check for continuity/resistance from pin 8 to chassis. You may see a high resistance reading and then slowly decay to short/continuity. That is the charging of the electrolytic cap located near the 5u4 tube socket. That is if it has any life left in it.

Next check the 6.3V filament secondary winding of the transformer. Connect one test lead probes to the wire you unsoldered from the chassis tab. (The one that is not the high voltage winding CT tap.) Connect the other test probe to pin 2 of one of the (#13) 6L6 tube sockets, you should measure resistance/continuity. If not the winding is open and bad. Next measure for continuity/resistance from pin 2 of the (#13) 6L6 to pins 4, 6, 2, and 8 of the 5u4 tube socket. You should not measure any resistance/continuity.
Next measure from pin 2 on the (#13) 6L6 tube socket to chassis, you should not read continuity/resistance.
* Note (#12) 6L6 tube socket has pin 2 connected to chassis and pin 7 is connected to the 6.3V lead. Tube socket (#13) pin 2 connects to the 6.3V lead and pin 7 is connected to chassis.

Last but not least is the primary winding. I am not sure what effect those .01 caps will have on the resistance/continuity readings..... You may have to isolate them from the circuit.
Turn on the power switch on the radio and connect each lead of the meter to the electrical cord plug end. If the switch is closed you should measure resistance/continuity. If not the switch contacts may not be making contact.

Another quick place to check the primary winding would be at the phonograph 117V receptacle there by the power cord. Insert a test probe in each contact hole. Check for winding resistance. Hopefully you measure resistance.

Next check for a winding short to chassis ground fault. This is where those .01 may need to be isolated from the circuit. Check for continuity/resistance from each lead of the primary winding to chassis through the contacts of the phonograph 117V receptacle. You should not read any continuity. If you do isolate the .01 caps from the circuit.

Lastly check to make sure the primary winding is not shorted to any secondary winding. Just measure from any primary lead to pins 2, 8, 4, and 6 on the 5u4 tube socket and the to pin 2 on (#13) 6L6 tube socket you should not measure continuity.

LOL, that will keep you out of trouble for awhile

[Randy]

after this project you could hear me saying something like "I got
my Tuning EYE on you"