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Thanks alot!
Be sure to keep the pics coming. This is my all time favorite thread <3
Be sure to keep the pics coming. This is my all time favorite thread <3
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Thanks for the How-to pictures. As of 10 days ago I am retired and can now find the time to begin my LONG learning curve on sheet metal work. I see many pieces of scrap steel and reviews of this thread in my near future!
VernComment
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Not much to show, been scraping undercoat and working on some rust issues.Comment
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Nice vertical welds, Keith. You do beautiful work.Member, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
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Keith,
Are you re-configuring the front wheel opening or replacing damaged/rusty sheet metal?
Could you discuss the amount of rust and metal replacement of the rocker panel. Looks like you've removed the outer sheet metal and have also cut away the inner boxed metal structure. Since rockers rust away and are an integral part of the uni-body, any info on you're findings and repairs would be of interest.Ken
1959 J Convertible
1960 J HardtopComment
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I second the question about your work on the rocker panels. My 59 needs both of the rocker panels replaced. I'd also be interested in the gauge sheet metal you are using.
VernComment
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Hey Vern,
Get in line
I asked Keith sometime back if he would do some sheet metal work on Christine for me!
Richard D. HordComment
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Both front fenders have been repaired at some point. Bad repairs.Lots of brazing rod and poor metal straightening requiring globs of bondo. I have nothing against bondo when used correctly. I use it all of the time.
I'm fixing the damage and re-configuring the wheel opening.
The left rocker had a used rocker brazed on top of it. The repair caused the inner rocker to rust out in the sections that I have removed. The removed sections where raised areas stamped in the inner rocker so that the outer rocker could be spot welded to the fender and 1/4 panel then lead was applied to finish the welded area off.
The outer rocker does add strength as you have pointed out, but there is quite a bit more inner structure hiding behind it. It looks like there is another inner rocker inside the inner rocker, hope that makes since. It is very strong and appears very well built.
I hope I answered your question.Comment
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Vern,
Because of I wasn't thinking of taking any pictures of the removal and repair I will do a better job when I do the right side.
I measured the metal thickness and the metal is 19 gauge, 19 gauge is very common in car bodies for many years. However 18 gauge will work fine and be just a tad thicker.
Hope I answered your question.Comment
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Dear Keith,
Please take pics of every step on this car. We are a few here who need it for future guidance, but it is also very, very, very inspiring.
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Kieth ...
your doing some really nice work there. Over the years I've come to the conclusion that I will try to buy solid cars to base a project on. I've replaced floor pans and trunks but have shied away from body panels because I haven't none any before and it always seemed kind of like black magic. I've recently purchased two triumph TR-6's that are going to require some quarter panel work and I guess it is time to give it a try. Thanks for all the tips and pics. MikeComment
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Some changes in the design have stopped me from working on the rockers. The front bumper needs to be done before I can proceed to the front fenders and rockers.
Pictures of the stock bumper. The bumper appears to be a good bumper at first glance....... but it has been straightened and rechromed a couple of time by looking at the back of it and the poor fit.
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The bumper had to be narrowed for the new design and also needed some metal added to the bottom to help with the lowered stance.
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A more pronounced body line had to be added too.
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