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  #11  
Old 06-26-2016, 06:44 PM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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Here's the picture in my shop manual. Look at the "primary shoe-to-anchor spring, where it mounts to the shoe.
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  #12  
Old 06-26-2016, 07:18 PM
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He has it correct according to the '61 shop manual. They used a shorter spring on the primary shoe back in '61. I don't really like it but that's the way it came from the factory.

John
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  #13  
Old 06-26-2016, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
He has it correct according to the '61 shop manual. They used a shorter spring on the primary shoe back in '61. I don't really like it but that's the way it came from the factory.

John
All well and good, however he may have the spring for a different year, because looking at his picture, there is no tension on it like there is for the secondary shoe.

Thinking more on this, Ford probably, like you, didn't like the short spring for '61, thus lengthened it and placed the hole further away on the shoe. Aftermarket brake shoes now have two holes. Aftermarket suppliers probably simplified inventory and manufactured only the later springs.

Last edited by Yadkin : 06-26-2016 at 08:33 PM.
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  #14  
Old 06-26-2016, 09:52 PM
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Interesting, so all this time, it could simply be that the shorter spring to the top hole does not pull the Primary shoe back fast enough?

So I need to find a longer spring to run to the lower hole? Can you tell me if that is the same length as the secondary shoe to anchor spring?

BTW, I deleted my rant. Regardless that I tried to keep emotion out, I feel that I violated the nature of the forum by expressing such frustration. But, thank you both for sticking with this.

The only logical conclusion I could see was either the clogged brake lines or the springs.
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  #15  
Old 06-26-2016, 10:45 PM
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Normally the spring on the primary and secondary shoes are the same. Your '61 is unusual in that it uses a smaller spring on the primary shoe. Return spring kits are pretty easy to find at your local auto store. Wagner H325 is the part number.

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  #16  
Old 06-26-2016, 11:06 PM
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I spoke with Oreilly and they have them there. I am picking them up in the morning. I'll let you know how I make out.

Mr. Yadkin, thanks, for pointing that out. I work very hard to stay true to the Shop Manual; but obviously there are exceptions.

Thanks to both you of you for hanging in there.

If I can get past this, then I can focus on the "pulls to the right" issue.
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  #17  
Old 06-26-2016, 11:51 PM
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Let's put things in perspective. If you have a mechanic work on your front brakes they will change shoes on both sides. They may even replace the drums, all for a cost (of course).

You changed your M/C but I'm not convinced you set up the brake pedal rod and the booster output rod properly. (Remember my suggestion of using a piece of American cheese?) I didn't hear discussion regarding 'bench bleeding', either.

When we spoke over the phone you tried pulling the upper shoe springs with Channelocks. You said the springs pull hard and they return as they should, indicating the springs are not overheated. You also said the shoes return smoothly when the pedal is depressed and released. Prior to this you said the M/C was good.

Drum brakes are very 'low tech' and when done properly they are very predictable. Ford didn't make the booster, shoes or the drums, Bendix, Inland, Wagner and other vendors did.

We try to help you but we depend on everything you say to be a fact. As we find things 'ain't necessarily so' (like the bushings), we are all led down the wrong path.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffInCarlsbad View Post
Still jerks to the right.
Later, you posted:
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffInCarlsbad View Post
...Car pulls to the right when braking. There is a slight fade if a press gently to a hard pull the harder I apply the brakes. Also, it feels like the Right Front wheel is grabbing and turning until is locks up under a hard press...
Ok, which is it? The car used to 'snap' and violently pull. These quotes do not indicate that at all.

Regardless, you have changed your suspension so that part is now correct. What direction are you headed, do you intend on moving forward? If not, all this discussion, time, money and work will be a moot issue as soon as you retrofit.

I did my brake conversion in ONE Saturday. I mounted all my devices (hardware) in the morning then I piped the whole car in the afternoon, using bending and flaring tools from Harbor Freight.

If you have all the parts (including disk-ready wheels) and tools for the job there is no reason you can't do the entire job in one weekend. I'm considering plenty of time for breaks and a slow working pace.

There is something wrong with two experienced mechanics who required three days to do this retrofit. I'd like to see their write-up, please. Send it to: simplyconnected@aol.com

Geoff we are here to help answer your questions to give you a better understanding of how and why things work. Our members have done the work you are doing now with T-Birds just like yours. Many problems may be unique but your setup was successfully used on millions of cars.

In closing, many of our members never did a brake conversion before. Larry Noska and Marcelo both come to mind. Larry is retired from AT&T and Marcelo works for a wine company. Both did an even nicer retrofit than a mechanic would because they took special care of their own cars and they didn't cut corners. There is no reason why you can't as well. - Dave
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  #18  
Old 06-27-2016, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffInCarlsbad View Post
I spoke with Oreilly and they have them there. I am picking them up in the morning. I'll let you know how I make out.

Mr. Yadkin, thanks, for pointing that out. I work very hard to stay true to the Shop Manual; but obviously there are exceptions.

Thanks to both you of you for hanging in there.

If I can get past this, then I can focus on the "pulls to the right" issue.
I found through pure luck, since I was looking at my 1964 manual. As John pointed out, earlier models had shorter springs and used the closer hole. My theory is that parts for the early set-up is no longer available.

My first car was a '72 Ford with front discs, rear drums and I found working on the discs so much easier.
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  #19  
Old 06-27-2016, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffInCarlsbad View Post
Interesting, so all this time, it could simply be that the shorter spring to the top hole does not pull the Primary shoe back fast enough?

So I need to find a longer spring to run to the lower hole? Can you tell me if that is the same length as the secondary shoe to anchor spring?

BTW, I deleted my rant. Regardless that I tried to keep emotion out, I feel that I violated the nature of the forum by expressing such frustration. But, thank you both for sticking with this.

The only logical conclusion I could see was either the clogged brake lines or the springs.
I don't think its pulling it back far enough. Try the new spring kit as others mentioned. Don't use pliers- that's an exercise in pinched fingers or worse. Use KD Tools Automotive Bendix Drum Brake Spring Tool Model # KDT280 to remove and install the springs. O's should have one.
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  #20  
Old 06-27-2016, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffInCarlsbad View Post
If I can get past this, then I can focus on the "pulls to the right" issue.
If your right front brake is not releasing your car will naturally "pull to the right". I think the problem is one and the same.

John
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