Oil pan gasket on a 352

[simplyconnected]

...It says "sorry, discontinued item" when I search by my car, but the part number you supplied gives me the kit for a 428. The discontinued one would have been OK for a 352, 390, or a 428...

The number I supplied is a good number for all FE engines. MAC's no longer buys the discontinued pump because they no longer deal with that particular vendor.

You can either buy the whole pump, or just the parts that move, at about half the cost. If you still aren't sure about the number I supplied from Mac's, call Becky in Customer Service (800-777-0948). She will verify fitment.

Here's a drawing of your pump:

[Astrowing]

Give Simplyconnected (Dave) credit for the website. I just provided pictures. The barn I give a lot of credit for design suggestions and construction from my cycling buddies, much as I do everything I've learned here to my Squarebird buddies. Pretty much everything that you'll struggle with on your car, someone here has done the same and has a suggestion.

[simplyconnected]

...Pretty much everything that you'll struggle with on your car, someone here has done the same and has a suggestion.

And it started long before some of us came around. That's the beauty of this open forum; we can compare notes and learn from each other. I'm only passing on information the real designers and engineers freely gave me (God love them) as they passed the baton.

Alexander made all this possible for us before he passed. We have much to be grateful for, as this way was really paved for us to enjoy. I know Alexander is looking down from heaven and smiling because he delighted in seeing Squarebird members enjoying and sharing their passion on the forum he founded.

It is really hard to realize or measure, how much our members and guests have benefited through Squarebirds.org over the years. I'm honored to help and humbled to be among the talent that is here.

[Guest]

Dave; The washer clip on the oil pump shaft goes near the top and fits close to the bottom of the distributor shaft guide. The washer goes on the shaft and only slides one way easily. The washer goes on from the lower end of the shaft and needs to be pushed up near the top. The washer has a flat side and a side that has small locking tabs on the other. These locking tabs need to point down so the washer won't slide down easily on the shaft.The distributor shaft fits in a machined part of the block that holds the bottom of the distributor shaft. There is a nylon washer under the distributor gear that rides on this machined boss in the block. The washer fits up under the boss to keep the shaft in place when the distributor is pulled out. The flat part of the washer goes up under the lower distributor guide in the block and NOT next to the oil pump. Most of the new oil shafts come with the washer already on the shaft and the short end goes up into the distributor.
I have pulled the distributor out and had the oil pump shaft drop into the pan because the washer was either gone or misplaced. Then you have to pull the oil pan to retrieve the shaft. Not a fun thing to do.
Always replace the oil pump and shaft when you take an old pump out. Cost is about $40 -$45. Replacing both can save you a lot of headaches.

[davidmij]

Hmm, thx Gary.
Now I have two differing instructions. What you say makes more sense to me because of the way the washer sets on the shaft, and there's really nothing for the washer to hit against if it's installed towards the pump.
I can understand why I should replace the pump, but I don't see why the shaft (which looks to be in perfect shape and has a very sturdily set push washer) would need replacing.

regards, Dave J

[simplyconnected]

...I would like you to take the bottom plate off the pump and look closely at the rotors... Trouble comes when oil is sucked up to the pump before the filter, (which is how all engines work). Sometimes little pieces of metal get embedded in the pump rotors...

Remember this post? If you looked at the rotors, there would be no question as to why the drive shaft should be replaced and you would know why everyone agrees. (I think they're tapping into their own experiences to help you.)

[redstangbob]

Well.....Sorry Gary, but your gonna goof David up. First, there is no nylon washer (see the exploded view supplied by Dave Dare). The distributor shaft just below the gear, rides in a bore that's machined in the block. That part of the block extends down a ways, then the shaft goes through to the pump. The clip or washer that goes on the pump shaft is made to stay in place. A new shaft will have the retainer in the correct location, and should be installed near the pump. The pump is then lifted into place with the shaft going up through the hole in the block until it goes into the bottom of the distributor. So to be clear, the retainer is closer to the pump, and if the distributor is removed and the shaft sticks in the distributor, the retainer (or clip) hits the bottom of the block boss and keeps the shaft in the pump and not in the pan. If I misunderstood your explanation, I apologize. Think of building an engine in a stand, with the block upside-down. The oil pump and shaft should be able to be installed without the shaft falling to the floor. Go to your shop manual for any questions. Trust me on this one, I've done this probably more than 50 times on just the FE block. Good luck, Bob C

PS: Why replace the shaft? because it's OLD & FATIGUED. Because they fail even if they're not 50 years old. My words will be ringing in your ears when you have to drop that pan again because of a failure. BTDT

[simplyconnected]

I happen to have the shop manual which explains how to install the FE oil pump and shaft. It also explains how to adjust the stop for proper height. David, this stop never touches anything in normal operation, so it doesn't 'wear'.

INSTALLATION (from the oil pan side)
1. Position the oil pump drive shaft into the distributor socket. With the shaft firmly seated in the distributor socket, the stop on the shaft should touch the roof of the crankcase. Remove the shaft and position the stop as necessary.

2. Position a new gasket on the pump housing. With the stop properly positioned, insert the oil pump drive shaft into the oil pump. Install the pump and shaft as an assembly.

Do not attempt to force the pump into position if it will not seat readily. The drive shaft hex may be misaligned with the distributor shaft. To align, rotate the intermediate shaft into a new position.

Tighten the oilpump retaining screws to specifications.Swing the inlet pipe so it willclear the oil pan...

[redstangbob]

Thanks for adding that Dave, You did what we all should do first, crack the book (they're really smart!) If any members here are trying to work on their cars without at least a shop manual, you're spinning your wheels. I made my living for over 30 years as a mechanic, the books were are best tools. If you're doing a restoration you should have 1)the shop manual for your car 2)the electrical manual and the body assy/trim manual 3)the VTCI OFS (original factory specs) manual and 4) a copy of the Ford master parts catalog on cd that covers your car. In fact I need one pre 1960, I've been looking into some earlier cars and don't have it yet. Good luck David, let us know how things turn out, Bob C

[Guest]

Sorry about any confusion about the nylon washer.

The nylon washer goes on the distributor shaft under the distributor gear and on top of the machined surface in the block. This nylon washer has nothing to do with the oil pump or oil pump shaft. If you ever pull the distributor out of the engine this nylon washer usually stays in the block and can be knocked off its resting place into the pan. I usually fish it out and use grease to hold it onto the distributor shaft upon re-instillation of the distributor.



Put the oil pump shaft in like the picture and it will be right. This is from the Ford manual.

[redstangbob]

The nylon washer goes on the distributor shaft under the distributor gear and on top of the machined surface in the block.

Huh... I've never seen one

[davidmij]

Thx again ppl!
i do have the shop manual, but didn't look to the illustrations because I saw you guys post them here. That manual is great, just download it and print out any pages you're currently using to take out to the car. I did notice that the clip seemed to be on the pump end when I pulled it, but it dropped out when I pulled the pan so i wasn't absolutely sure. I feel better about it now. At most I'll be driving this car 100 miles a year until I rebuild the engine - it's just sitting in my driveway on blocks waiting for me to save up enough to do the brakes next, and a PCV set up on it. Then all the smoke will be behind me!
- Dave J

[partsetal]

The Victor o/h gasket set has a nylon washer in it, but it is for the drain plug. A little big for the nose of the dist gear, but it could be mistakenly installed there. I too have never seen a nylon washer used on the dist.
Carl