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  #41  
Old Today, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue62tbird View Post
could I run that red wire that has the inline fuse to the relay, to the black push end black wire?
The top and window switches in the door should be on completely different circuits. I would not run them to the same relay. The top should have it's own relay under the dash that works off the neutral switch so the top will only work when the car is in Park or Neutral. It makes more sense now. Someone bypassed both relays most likely because they didn't work and connected the hot wires together inside the door to get power to them. I doubt an inline fuse is large enough to carry both circuits. The top switch should have it's own 10 amp breaker in the fuse box and the windows should have a 30 amp breaker on the solenoid. How large is the in-line fuse. You will have to take the door panel off to see where they joined the wires. Or you can leave it the way it is. The in-line fuse should blow before any damage is done to either circuit.

John
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  #42  
Old Today, 12:17 PM
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At this point I may leave as is. The car sits in the garage, top not used much, windows not since it is indoors and I don't any of it when I am driving it. Not that dude the cycles the top 5 times at car shows and cruise in's to show off that system.
I assume if I am not using any of it, there is not load on those systems through the loan hot wire to the fuse box. I did not see what size the fuse was in that line. The thing inside of it was pretty wide/thick so i assume they tried best they could to put the right one in that would blow sooner than later if there was an issue.
It appeared all the wires where intact, nothing an issue, but to my vastly untrained eye I could have missed something. I did find two things I will get loaded tonight. There is a relay (similar looking to the many on this car) of sorts at the end of the steering column, above it, with two wires going in, one yellow and red?? and a black that was cut and see no other black wire that is just hanging loose.
I will try to post pics later but prob won't help.
I have notes (repair records) from prev owner from shops trying to figure out some electrical gremlins with the windows and instrument cluster, I assume what I have found was part of the fix!!?!?!!? I am hoping the gauge lights that do not work are just a bad light switch, I did not see any out of the norm look of any wires coming from that switch.
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  #43  
Old Today, 12:52 PM
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As long as it's on a breaker that's switched you should be fine. I've gotten used to removing the battery cable whenever I have old cars in my garage. I'd rather be safe than sorry. With old wiring you never know what can happen. There's no reason to have the battery connected unless you really want the clock to keep time.

John
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  #44  
Old Today, 12:57 PM
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Clock does not work. ha ha ha
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  #45  
Old Today, 12:59 PM
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I will look at the records I have on the car, see if they give any detail to what they did fixing the bugs in the electrical. I have looked them over don't recall detail but I will look again.
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  #46  
Old Today, 01:06 PM
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See if this works..

http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/1y...tml?sort=3&o=0

Yellow and red or brown? That wire, you can see a cut wire that looks like it was black on that spade to a relay? That yellow red or brown wire going into a diff wire with a red crimp on it.
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  #47  
Old Today, 01:13 PM
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This one,

http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/1y...tml?sort=3&o=2

Coming out of a harness, don't think from the door, have to look again, red and white, you can see a part of it that is CUT and the other end in into a fuse terminated wire.

I can't see **** up close, even with reader glasses, makes this so much harder to see. ha ha ha
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  #48  
Old Today, 02:37 PM
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I tried clicking on the tech library link today, it is not working.
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  #49  
Old Today, 03:19 PM
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working now.
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