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  #11  
Old 04-22-2018, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthSRT10 View Post
I dont have a degree wheel so i didnt. I checked the push rods by measuring each one and then sharpie the top of the valve stem and turning the engine over a few times. Looks like all of them need to go down one size. I ordered new push rods and they should be in in a week or so. Im going to check over the carb in the meantime but if this doesn't solve most of my issue then i will be pulling the cam out to meausre all the lobes to see if any of them are flattened.

i ordered rods 0.05 inch shorter. I will install all of them and do the sharpie test again to make sure the contact patch is the best possible.

Any other ideas are always welcome.
I suspect you can check if a lobe has flattened a lot quicker than pulling the cam!

A dial gauge will show you which valve is moving less than the others, in fact you would probably see which rocker arm is moving less than the others.
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  #12  
Old 04-23-2018, 11:19 AM
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I have watched them and they all look like they are traveling pretty well. gonna do dial after new push rods come in.
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  #13  
Old 04-23-2018, 12:10 PM
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Ryan, you can make a degree wheel out of cardboard and a download from the internet. They have a paper strip you can glue to your damper pulley that works, as well. A degree wheel doesn't need to be fancy.
A few points bother me about your posts:
  • Did you find TDC?
  • How did you prove your cam/crank timing was right?
  • How did you prove your distributor was 'dropped' in the right place?
  • Are your rocker arms adjustable?
  • Are your rocker arms stock? What ratio are you using?
  • Why do you need a dial indicator? A feeler gauge between the rocker and valve stem is all you need for checking lifter preload.
  • What did you set your lifter preload to? I assume you have hydraulic lifters.
  • How do you know your misfire isn't an electrical problem? What have you done to "prove it out?"

The compression check was a good move to show all your valves are opening and closing. - Dave
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  #14  
Old 04-23-2018, 01:13 PM
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Thats a good idea didnt think of that about printing one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
Ryan, you can make a degree wheel out of cardboard and a download from the internet. They have a paper strip you can glue to your damper pulley that works, as well. A degree wheel doesn't need to be fancy.
A few points bother me about your posts:
  • Did you find TDC? yes. and triple checked.
  • How did you prove your cam/crank timing was right? I lined up the crank and the cam using timing gear marks. I also ended up doing it 2 times because it was off a tooth initally. thats what i get for working at 2 am. Anyways lined up and rotated motor a few times to make sure they stayed aligned.
  • How did you prove your distributor was 'dropped' in the right place? I did this multiple times and even bought a new distro. figured couldn't hurt since the original was so old. got tdc then inserted it with arm aiming at the one. "not exactly at it obviously".
  • Are your rocker arms adjustable? no they are origional
  • Are your rocker arms stock? What ratio are you using? yes they are stock. I dont know the ratio off the top but the particular cam is not supposed to need aftermarket.
  • Why do you need a dial indicator? A feeler gauge between the rocker and valve stem is all you need for checking lifter preload. im not sure what measurements i need like what its supposed to be
  • What did you set your lifter preload to? I assume you have hydraulic lifters. i torqued the rail down since they arent adjustable
  • How do you know your misfire isn't an electrical problem? im not 100% that it isnt. What have you done to "prove it out?"

The compression check was a good move to show all your valves are opening and closing. - Dave
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  #15  
Old 04-23-2018, 01:16 PM
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i thought it would change font in my reply to all your questions. it did not
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  #16  
Old 04-23-2018, 01:44 PM
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You take too much for granted in your build which provokes even more questions.
  • Did you have any machine work done?
  • Were the heads or block milled to make them straight?
  • What head gasket thickness did you use?
  • Did you check 'valve-to-piston' clearance? <--this is important

I verify my cam/crank timing by comparing the rocker arms to the crank's TDC. Here's how:
Look at your firing order:
Since this is a 4-stroke engine, it takes two revolutions to complete a cycle.
1-5-4-2 <--first revolution
6-3-7-8 <--second revolution

That means, when #1 piston is at TDC so is #6. If #6 rocker arms start motion as you rotate the crank in the correct direction, the exhaust comes up first, then the intake starts motion. Right then, when both rockers are dead even (use a straight edge on the rocker arms) they are both slightly open. That means #1 is on its power stroke. STOP right there.

At this point, the crank timing should point right at TDC. The distributor's rotor should point a hair before #1 spark plug tower, which should also be lined-up and pointing at #6 piston.

If your crankshaft timing marks are off, so is your timing chain. This requires, pulling the chain off and doing it over.

Let's assume cam timing is ok. If the distributor rotor is not pointing directly at #1 spark plug tower, your distributor is off a tooth, which makes spark happen between distributor towers. Sometimes the spark 'jumps' to the correct wire and sometimes it jumps to the wrong spark plug. If it is off, re-drop the distributor at the correct gear mesh.

I don't like playing, "what if..." but all I can go by is your answers. We have all made these common mistakes but as you learn more about the mechanics of your engine you will realize, all these settings can be verified before sealing with gaskets. - Dave
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  #17  
Old 04-23-2018, 01:55 PM
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[*]Did you have any machine work done? no i did not. there were no issues before heads pulled. i know that doesnt really mean much but anyways.
[*]Were the heads or block milled to make them straight?
[*]What head gasket thickness did you use? fel pro headgasket dont know thickness. origional was metal.
[*]Did you check 'valve-to-piston' clearance? <--this is important no i did not.


Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
I verify my cam/crank timing by comparing the rocker arms to the crank's TDC. Here's how:
Look at your firing order:
Since this is a 4-stroke engine, it takes two revolutions to complete a cycle.
1-5-4-2 <--first revolution
6-3-7-8 <--second revolution

That means, when #1 piston is at TDC so is #6. If #6 rocker arms start motion as you rotate the crank in the correct direction, the exhaust comes up first, then the intake starts motion. Right then, when both rockers are dead even (use a straight edge on the rocker arms) they are both slightly open. That means #1 is on its power stroke. STOP right there.

At this point, the crank timing should point right at TDC. The distributor's rotor should point a hair before #1 spark plug tower, which should also be lined-up and pointing at #6 piston.

If your crankshaft timing marks are off, so is your timing chain. This requires, pulling the chain off and doing it over.

Let's assume cam timing is ok. If the distributor rotor is not pointing directly at #1 spark plug tower, your distributor is off a tooth, which makes spark happen between distributor towers. Sometimes the spark 'jumps' to the correct wire and sometimes it jumps to the wrong spark plug. If it is off, re-drop the distributor at the correct gear mesh.

I don't like playing, "what if..." but all I can go by is your answers. We have all made these common mistakes but as you learn more about the mechanics of your engine you will realize, all these settings can be verified before sealing with gaskets. - Dave
I do appreciate the time everyone takes to help with problems.
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Last edited by simplyconnected : 04-23-2018 at 04:40 PM.
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  #18  
Old 04-23-2018, 04:50 PM
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I straightened out your quote.
Some new cams come with a lower profile. They need a different rocker arm ratio in order to work correctly. I'm not sure what cam you bought, so I can't tell. I don't know if you advanced/retarded the cam timing or not. Aftermarket head gaskets are usually ~.040" thick. If you still have your original head gaskets, measure them.

As a rule, I never throw any parts out until the job is complete, but that's me. I also take LOTS of pictures as I go.

If you don't understand the technical part of my post, read it a few times. There are many mechanics who don't fully understand engines but they know how to change parts. This can be dangerous if clearances aren't tested.

Lifter preload is right up there as well as piston-to-valve clearances. Your new cam has a different profile than the OEM cam. - Dave
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  #19  
Old 04-23-2018, 05:00 PM
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I bought the comp cams kit
#33-207-4

the camshaft is a 265DEH-10
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  #20  
Old 04-24-2018, 04:48 PM
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That cam is a very mild, nearly stock camshaft. You shouldn't have any problem with it. I checked the spec's and it is very compatible with standard rocker arms and pushrods.

Be careful with shorter pushrods, since you had nothing milled and you are using a thicker head gasket than stock.

Your lifter pre-load should be .025" to 0.040". I like to target .030" when the lifters are on the cam's base circle. That gives plenty of elbow room in case a lifter sticks or collapses. - Dave
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