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  #1  
Old 07-01-2013, 11:38 AM
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DKheld DKheld is offline
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Default Driveline vibration

Replaced the engine - now at 70mph+ I have a vibration. Below 70 it may be there but is not noticeable.

Feels like it is in the seat - not the steering. Wasn't there with the old engine but haven't run it down the highway in a good while so it's something that "could have" happened before the engine was replaced. Transmission and drive line stayed in the car during the engine swap so no chance on something having been bent during removal and install.

Although I did install a new damper the vibration doesn't seem to be there when the engine is at speed in Park so that's what leads me to believe it is driveline. Need to put my tach on it and match the engine speeds in Park and D - just didn't have time to hook it up this weekend. Engine runs great no smoke, no missing etc but I didn't do the rebuild or know anything about it other than it has +.20 pistons which I saw with a bore scope. Bought it already rebuilt. It did have a bushing in the crankshaft for a manual transmission but I pulled the bushing and measured the crank openings - same but the new engine has a slightly different overall depth for the transmission torque converter to go in to. The torque converter has a lip on it so it can only in go so far - figured it would not matter. Used the original flywheel and matched it back to the same bolt holes that it was removed from.

Replaced the rear U joint because it had a tiny bit of movement. The front joint is solid - no movement in the output bearing or the rear end input bearing. Had a rear axle bearing (drivers side) that seemed a little noisy so replaced it - think it was fine. Drive shaft balancers are still on there and no evidence of a missing one. Same with rear drums. Rotated/re-balanced tires/wheels all around - no real noticeable difference. Fluid level was low in the rear axle - added about 1/2 pint.

Plan on removing the rear tires and drums and see if it vibrates. Next step is to remove the belts and see if the new A/C water pump pulley is causing the vibration but doubt it.

Have not adjusted the kick down linkage and checked the transmission pressure "by the book".

Can an incorrect kick down linkage position cause the tranny to vibrate in high gear at speed?

Even though I think it is driveline - probably going to have to pull the engine (just my luck) and have it all balanced but other ideas are appreciated.

Eric
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  #2  
Old 07-01-2013, 04:23 PM
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Engine imbalance shows up in neutral as you go through the rpm range. Final Dress components are included in this test.

You said you changed a universal joint. I would revisit that. Bad U-joints are notorious for causing driveline vibrations. So is a mis-matched engine angle (to the rear axle angle).

Are you using the same torque converter? Is it balanced? Sometimes, moving a torque converter 90 degrees or 180, will help with imbalance. - Dave
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:47 AM
lexdownunder lexdownunder is offline
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I had a similar experience the first time I took my car over 60mph. Had it checked out & turned out to be uni joints. I replaced both joints but also went the extra & had the drive shaft re-balanced by an engineering company in Perth that specialise in balancing.
Could not believe the difference. It was like driving a different car. I now have NO vibration at any speed.
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  #4  
Old 07-04-2013, 10:11 AM
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Thanks Lex
Even though the front U joint feels solid I'll probably go ahead and replace it - about the easiest thing at this point - already replaced the back one. The balancers are still on the drive shaft and no evidence of a missing one but there are a few places nearby that can balance it so that will on the list. I actually hope it's that simple and not in the engine.

Dave - yes - didn't make a single change to the driveline - even marked the flywheel and torque converter to get them re-aligned as they came off - didn't remove the torque converter. Ugh - probably have to pull a bunch of stuff loose to move the flywheel 90 or 180 but I'll keep it in mind. Drive line angle is factory....

Still working on it. Will pull the wheels and tires and see if the vibration is still there. Still need to hook up my tach and dwell meter and get the rpm reading where it starts to vibrate. I'll report back.

Thanks,
Eric
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Old 07-29-2013, 12:39 PM
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Driveshaft balanced and front U joint replaced - no real noticeable difference in my high speed vibration.

Had rotated the tires but think they are the problem after all. Believe they have flat sided from sitting and age (although they look brand new and have no signs of dry rot - they are 13 years old). Took the tires and wheels off and left the drums on by re-installing a few lug nuts to keep them in place. High speed vibration was gone - just some slight normal vibration when running a drive line at 80 mph on jack stands. Weird thing is it seems to only be the back 2. Front ones are fine.

(Although I did have to get 2 new ones when I bought these tires 13 years ago. Apparently UPS had run over 2 of them with a forklift - it was evident on the whitewall - not sure which 2 the bad ones are - the original ones or the replacements)

May try "road force" balancing but looks like I'll be ordering a new set of Diamond Back tires. Been well pleased with them.

Oh - and as a reference price - cost me $60 to have the driveshaft balanced and he replaced the front U joint at the same time.

Guess I over thought this one as usual - should have just tried the tires first.
Eric
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  #6  
Old 07-29-2013, 01:53 PM
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One suggestion would be to see if there is runout at the axle flanges. I've heard of this as a source of vibration.
Carl
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Old 07-29-2013, 02:54 PM
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Thanks Carl - I'll keep that in mind. Have a buddy that just ordered some new Torq Thrust wheels and tires for his Torino. Going to slip those on the Tbird and see what happens.
If it is only the tires - hopefully I won't like the look of the Torq Thrust wheels on the Tbird too much.....he may not get them back.

Eric

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Old 07-30-2013, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by partsetal View Post
One suggestion would be to see if there is runout at the axle flanges. I've heard of this as a source of vibration.
Carl
Axle flanges are turned true at the factory.

I once made the mistake of letting a buddy of mine drive my Mustang GT. I was with him at the time as the car was only a week old. It started sprinkling and he made a hard left turn at a stale yellow light. Instantly, the P-225 x 15s were sleds that spun the back end around in a 360 causing the RH rear wheel to slam into the cement curb. It ruined the cast wheel and bent the axle flange but the 'V' rated tire survived.

He really walloped the crap out of that wheel and axle with side force. That's the only way I have experienced a bent flange. Running over a deep pot hole will ruin tires and bend steel wheels but the flanges can take it. There aren't any on front wheels. - Dave
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  #9  
Old 07-31-2013, 06:15 AM
bird 60 bird 60 is offline
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It might not be, but check the engine mounts.

Chris....From OZ.
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Old 09-15-2013, 12:05 PM
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I hope you don't mind me tacking my problem onto this thread since it's related.

I've been so concerned with trying to fix things under the hood that I haven't spent any time on the rear end. There's always been a leak around the front seal on the differential since we got the car, and I've had to keep cardboard under it to catch the few drops of oil after each drive.
Yesterday I jacked the back of the car high enough to where the tires were still touching the ground, but enough for me to crawl under. I drained about 3/4 of a pint of black, smelly diff fluid. Yeah, "WOW"! I filled up the diff with about 4 1/2 pints of new Valvoline 80W-90 gear oil and saw that the grease fitting on the U-joint was right there, so I greased it plenty good. Grease didn't come out of all the areas I expected it to.

We took the car out for a test drive expecting the ride to be smoother, but instead it was vibrating pretty bad. Anything over 55 felt like there was something seriously wrong in the back. It used to drive somewhat smooth even with the cheap tires that are on it now.

The only thing that changed from before was the differential filled with new lube, and the rear U-joint being greased. I'm wondering if the grease in the u-joint upset the balance of the driveshaft, of which I found that the left exhaust pipe is rubbing on.
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