HELP, What's needed for engine spark?

[Fireball]

My car was running just OK this morning and when I was filling tranny oil, car idling it just died without any warning. Starter spins but doesn't even promise to run anymore. There seems to be gas at carb so it lost the spark I assume.

What can I test there, is there any fuses related to ignition? Distributor condenser, can it go bad like that? Coil, is there any ways to measure it's functionality? Should the coil + get current only when starting or all the time? How about the - side of the coil?

Any ideas gentlemen? I really didn't need this. After changing the shift selector shaft seals tranny doesn't seem to have reverse, and now this. I was hoping the missing reverse is just a linkage issue but can't check it properly until I get the engine running again...

[LuckyJay]

Pull a spark plug, while holding the large end of that plug against the manifold with the wire connected, while someone else turns it over, watch the gap of the plug to see if there is spark. If no spark, the first thing i'd do is pull the distributor cap and see if the points are opening and closing while the motor is cranked. It is possible that the condenser is shorted. That should keep you busy for a while.

[tbird430]

And remember the 1958 & 1959 Birds have that ballast resister up on the firewall, by the brake master cylinder. Looks like a porcelain square block with a wire connection at opposite ends. When these go bad, no "fire" at all makes it to your coil/distributor....

-Jon in TX.

[Fireball]

Thanks boys, GOT IT I checked the points were opening, yes, filed them clean and bang, back in business!

BTW whats the relay box in the firewall on the co-drivers side, there's a bigger box and a tiny one in front of it?
Mine is a '60 there's no ballast resistor. Now it's time for sauna, couple of cold ones and back to that tranny issue tomorrow.

[jopizz]

That sounds like the power window relay. The smaller one is a circuit breaker.

John

[simplyconnected]

You have a ballast resistor, but it is a 'resistance wire'. It is the PINK wire running from your Key Switch to your Coil (+). This is a special resistance wire, not like a straight copper wire.

Another wire is on your Coil (+) side. It goes to your Starter Switch (Relay). When the Key Switch is turned to the START position, this wire bypasses your PINK ballast wire and feeds +12 volts directly to your Coil. When you let go of the key, Coil power resumes from the PINK wire. Follow these two wires on your Electrical Diagram, starting at your Coil (+) post. - Dave

[Fireball]

I hear you Dave, now this gets tricky even though the car is running. My + coil side has only one red wire attached, and it seems to be connected to that pink one (inside insulation so not visible). Somebody has tinkered there doing whatever. My neutral safety switch is working at least partially, car only starts when in park. Oh boy, makes me wonder what else has been done there and why...

[simplyconnected]

...My + coil side has only one red wire attached...

How many posts are on your Starter Switch (Starter Relay)? One, or two? You should have two small posts. The one closest to the heavy battery terminal should be to start the car. The small post closest to the Starter Motor cable should be connected to your Coil (+) post. This should help your engine start faster.

When the Starter Motor is cranking, it causes a huge voltage drop on your battery. During this time, the last thing you need is more resistance feeding your Coil. That's why Ford bypassed the resistor wire.

Do a further investigation and verify your PINK resistance wire is in fact supplying power to your Coil. If it is not, straight +12 volts will decrease the life of your points.

In an emergency (like on the roadside), we used to use a match book cover to set the points. Matchbook cardboard happened to be ~0.013" thick. That was a long time ago, when I was a kid and everyone smoked. - Dave

[JohnG]

this might be a good time to make a pitch to any 58-59 guys to carry around a spare ballast resistor.

These things do deteriorate with age (which we have an abundance of) and if it fails you walk/get towed. If you have a spare, it takes only a minute to change and off you go.

If possible, get one with the same resistance as the one you are using (they are not all the same).

[Fireball]

Dave, two posts there, there's a wire on my starter solenoid as you describe, but I need to study where the other end is connected, if anywhere. Anyhow the car is now running and gears finally work. I disassembled the valve body again and found out that I had put the other end of the selector lever wrongly, it didn't move the valve at all.

[simplyconnected]

... I need to study where the other end is connected, if anywhere...

Tero, I am happy to hear your car is running. If you don't have a wiring diagram, we offer them for free as part of our Technical Resource Library:
CLICK HERE for the wiring diagram for your 1960 Thunderbird.

This diagram shows everything you need to know about your whole car except for electric windows, seats, and convertible tops. The starting and charging parts are nicely detailed. Please use this 'road map' to restore your electrical to its original condition. - Dave