Aluminum radiator

[jax]

radiator

Fantastic info guys! I will have to pour some CLR into my radiator when I get back.

[ayrwoof]

fan shroud , and if you need a new radiator go the US radiator copper
route ,, The copper can be repaired easy as it ages. not the super high
density core ,but the 5/16" spaced tube! ,,four row the realadvantage of the 4 row is to slow down the coolant speed AS IT Travels across the rad.
this slower speed pulls heat away EARLIER. and request heavy gage
side tanks . ok i'd spent 550 bucks of your money so i gotta split.

[ayrwoof]

i'm still running a 1962 car rad in my bird (a 3 row) unit /fair shape.
i'd just removed the spot welds on the thin tin , air block . between
the radiator cross yoke and the front bumper. I'll make it so it blots on later. Next i made up a 46" or so air dam from aluminum, 12 ga. x 4.5".. The top is riveted to a heavy brass piano hinge. to swing up for
a jack or show . drops down at a angle of 60 deg or so. This
one would think will force enough air even in the engine compartment.

[scumdog]

i'm still running a 1962 car rad in my bird (a 3 row) unit /fair shape.
i'd just removed the spot welds on the thin tin , air block . between
the radiator cross yoke and the front bumper. I'll make it so it blots on later. Next i made up a 46" or so air dam from aluminum, 12 ga. x 4.5".. The top is riveted to a heavy brass piano hinge. to swing up for
a jack or show . drops down at a angle of 60 deg or so. This
one would think will force enough air even in the engine compartment.

I had a similar idea to direct air through a trans-cooler many years ago.

Worked great UNTIL the first hot summer day on the highway and the trans temp went higher than it ever used to be on that same highway.

A bit of head-scratching and I figured the air-dam was actually scooping hot air from just above the road surface.

Took the dam off and temp went back down.(I actually moved the cooler to a better location in the end to keep things as cool as I wanted.)

Just for your info.

[simplyconnected]

I got a silly question, since your oil temp stays around 300 degrees F, and the oil pump delivers great oil pressure, How come nobody uses flowing oil to help cool the engine?

I mean, in the winter it would make a great heater inside the car. A buddy of mine had an old Studebaker with a 3/4" pipe under his front seat as part of the car's heating system. It worked just like a radiator. He had a manual shutoff valve, too. A very skinny pipe (like brake line) could be used as a conduit, open into a larger size pipe, then back to the oil pan using a small size pipe, again. A regulator or shutoff anywhere along the line would work.

In summer, an oil cooler makes sense. It gets rid of engine heat before coolant has to deal with it. - Dave