sloppy shifting

[Guest]

RE: sloppy shifting

So is it possible to take off that part and weld it up and then drill a hole to fill it in or is it better just to replace it? Also is there any good books out there that you know that helps you rebuild that transmission or do you have any good auto shops that you could refer to have them rebuild my transmission? Thanks

[Alexander]

RE: sloppy shifting

That piece is made out of pot metal. Welding will melt the piece. Before replacements were available, I have tken the collar off and drilled out the holes and epoxied in bushings. The holes are really the only wear item on that piece. The metal detent plate that is screwed in inside also wears out. I may have a template to make a new one.

With the cost of the repro collar so low, I would just go with buying a new one. This way you are assured the holes line up correctly for the shift lever.

The shop manual shows how to rebuild these transmissions. Major transmission shops in your area should be able to rebuild these transmissions. Call first, to see if anyone is familiar with these old transmissions.

Alexander
1959 Hardtop
1960 Golde Top

[Guest]

RE: sloppy shifting

take me thru the process of removing the color do you have to remove the steering wheel and then what? You talked about the part the shifter rubs against sometimes wear out do they sell a replacement part? thanks Matt

[Alexander]

RE: sloppy shifting

This is the tracing of a new tranmission detent that wears out. You can make one out of sheet steel.

http://www.squarebirds.org/images/transmission-detent.gif

I have to make the trip to Bob's Bird House now, I will post the procedure to remove the collar tomorrow. If anyone else has done this procedure, feel free to post it sooner.


Alexander
1959 Hardtop
1960 Golde Top

[Alexander]

RE: sloppy shifting

To remove the shift collar:

[ol][li]Remove the steering wheel using a steering wheel puller.

[li]Pull up the access cover on top of the collar. It just pops off.

[li]Unscrew the two screws hold in the gear indicator and lamp.

[li]Remove the plastic horn contact support. You can either attach a cord to the end of the horn wire (I think it is blue) at the base of the steering column after diconnecting it and pull it out, or you can cut the wire and splice in a connector near the plastic horn contact support.

[li]Carefully pry off the conical spring holding the turn signal switch.

[li]The switch-actuating arm should just pull out now.

[li]Unscrew the two screws holding down the turn signal switch.

[li]Disconnect the wires for the turn signal switch at the base of the steering column. Securely attach a heavy cord to the end of the wires and then pull the wires out through the top of the steering column. Leave the cord in place. If you do not attach a cord, you will never be able to put the wires back in.

[li]Drive out the roll pin of the gearshift using a properly sized set punch. the gear shift lever should now just pull out.

[li]Unscrew the two hex nuts holding the chrome collar. There are short square head bolts behind these. Be careful not to let them drop into the column. You should be able to remove the chrome collar now.

[li]The shift collar should now be able to be pulled off.[/ol]

I am writing these instructions from memory. Correct me if I left anything out.


Alexander
1959 Hardtop
1960 Golde Top

[Guest]

RE: sloppy shifting

>Thanks for the compliment. I am trying to make this the best
>place on the Internet for Squarebird information.
>
>Alexander
>1959 Hardtop
>1960 Golde Top

Hi. Been lurking for a bit.

You're doing a great job! I've already picked up many pointers for my 58's resto.

Keep up the great work! Excellent message board you have here!

[juantejeda]

RE: sloppy shifting

Alexander, YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!

Thanks

[tarps3]

RE: sloppy shifting

does the replacement collar come with a new detent installed or are you forced to make your own?
Does the shift collar come primed so you can paint it?

Casey
'60 TBird

[Alexander]

RE: sloppy shifting

For some unexplicable reason, the shift collar only comes in the color Turquoise, an uncommon but very pretty collar. It is easily paintable.

You will need to make the detent plate yourself if it is worn out.

Alexander
1959 Hardtop
1960 Golde Top

[Guest]

RE: sloppy shifting

This is a great thread. Thanks for all the info. guys. My squarebird has the exact same problems with the loose shifting. One interesting thing Ive learned about my car is that, if the shifting lever isnt perfectly in the "P" position, the car will not start. So, everytime I go to start it, the shifting lever must be pushed/held up into the perfect "p" position (only a tiny bit off from where it normally rests). This (Im guessing) is a security measure to make sure that the car is never in gear while starting. This flaw also keeps other people from being able to start my car...

[Alexander]

RE: sloppy shifting

When I first bought my 1959 T-Bird, I needed to push the shift lever up in order to start it. I think the reason Ford put the ignition switch on the left in those years on all their cars is to make it convenient for those who had manual transmissions. You could hold the car in neutral at the same time turn the ignition switch. The same use with worn automatic transmission linkages is an unintended benefit.

Alexander
1959 Hardtop
1960 Golde Top

[Guest]

RE: sloppy shifting

has anybody used this repop collar?thanks steve 58 ht

[Alexander]

RE: sloppy shifting

I have one. I have not used it yet. It looks exactly the same as the original. It should be a bolt on replacement.

Alexander
1959 Hardtop
1960 Golde Top

[tarps3]

RE: sloppy shifting

Alexander,

I have just received a new shift lever and a new collar (you're right - bright turquoise).
As I mess with these pieces and test-fit them, I don't see how the lever is inserted into the collar.

The end that inserts has a flat metal, stepped "tab" on it and it won't allow the lever to be inserted into the collar.
That is, when you insert that end, the flat metal tab makes it so that the lever is not centered in the hole and therefore the rubber bushing (where the roll pin is inserted) won't align with the collar opening - it's off-center.

Am I doing something wrong? Should I somehow remove the rubber bushing where the roll pin goes in?
I hate to ask dumb questions, but I spent too much money on this stuff to just start cramming it together.
Any hints from others on the group who have installed a new lever?

By the way, various TBird suppliers show a picture of the lever with the tab on the end, but the illustration provided earlier in this thread does not show the tab on the lever...it just shows a straight end.

thanks,
Casey
'60 hardtop