The Manual Isn't Telling Me

[Restifier52]

how to get the bolts that go through the crossmember and the front of the frame out in order to remove the lower control arms. Do they just push out or are they threaded? Thanks guys.

Rick

[Dakota Boy]

I do not remember those big pins being threaded.

Sounds like you are having some fun..


Here's a link with tons of photos

http://www.salguod.net/gallery/squarebird-suspension-rebuild/

[Restifier52]

Thanks Greg. I hit it a couple times with no effect. I'm gonna need a bigger hammer. I went to the track yesterday. Car had a problem with the WOT switch that I thought I had fixed, and I was hopping a bit off the line. Biggest problem is between the steering wheel and the seat. Sleeping or redlighting, that's me. It's hard to get good when you only go twice the whole season. But I did get a new time in spite of myself - 12.29. When I put the front end back together I'll put 90/10s in. Hope we can race in 2016.

[Dakota Boy]

you're getting some good times there. How much spray are you hitting the engine with?

As for the control arm thing, can you turn the pin, or is it seized in place?

[Restifier52]

I'm spraying 150 right now. I put a wrench on that big hex and it turned both ways without seeming to move in or out. Not seized.

[Dakota Boy]

I think I had one or two of those pins that were stubborn.

I did the whole front end rebuild project in the winter of 2010/2011. The hard work is worth the end result.

[toddgilroy]

If you are talking about these I just left mine in when they wouldn't budge. If you remove the other bolt and pin from the engine support cross member, you can work the control arm off the front pin.

[simplyconnected]

Suspension work is bull-work. It requires huge tools and big hammers. Even then, you need to be up to the task.

Those pins have always been at least one inch in diameter. My '55 has threads on the outside ends, so I screw the nut on and hit it with a one-pound hammer. If it won't go, PB BLASTER works well and so does Aero-Kroil. If you can turn the large hex, that will work the oil in. Our '59 has inside threads like yours; screw a bolt all the way in and hit it with a big hammer. Eventually you will get it out.

I will never understand, re-assembling before ALL the parts are de-rusted and painted. I get real serious about removing rust because this is the majority of this job. For large parts like 'A' arms, I put on rubber gloves and goggles then I get a small 'kiddie' pool and a couple gallons of muriatic acid (HCL) plenty of water nearby and a paint brush. This can only be done outside. Acid works best when heated so do this on the warmest day you can.

Hydrochloric acid (HCL) attacks the oxides (rust) but it leaves steel alone. I like to cover the pieces with acid and let it do it's thing. If an area has grease on it, acid won't penetrate it so you can use grease as a barrier or remove it to let the acid work on the metal. When the acid is rinsed off the metal will 'flash rust'. I take that off with phosphoric acid, which leaves a thin black film that resists rust for a year. (Yes, phosphoric acid is used in 'rust converter' paints.)

Some of our members powder coat or rattle can. When these parts were original, they were dipped in paint. Either way, they look brand new after de-rusting and painting. Springs look dynamite in fresh paint.

Follow your shop manual for re-assembly and most importantly...
Do NOT tighten your pivot points until the car is level with correct operating weight. If you tighten when the wheels are hanging, you will need another bushing job very soon. If you don't have a four-post hoist or a pit, then four ramps (or the equiv.) work. - Dave

[Restifier52]

I put a socket on a short extension with some PB and a hammer. Fortunately they are not very stubborn after all. I will try the bolt method on the remaining two. I am considering powder coating but the rattle can job I did ten or more years ago held up well.

And OH after looking at my timeslips again I discovered I did better than I thought.

60ft - 1.943
594ft - 7.529
1/8 - 8.020@91.74
1/4 - 12.157@117.71

I know I can launch better so it looks like my goal of reaching 12 flat will be achieved.