Stablizer Insulators

[Deanj]

I checked our past threads on this subject which explain front stabilizer insulator R&I pretty simply: Remove the stabilizer brackets, remove and install new insulators, and re-install brackets. Voila! Those old cracked something close to rubber parts come out like butter.

Now the Shop Manual states this procedure in terms of removing the stabilizer bar including "front cross member guard", whatever that part might be. Then to really confuse re-installation it states in FIG.13 to torque "cap screws" at 30-35 ft.-lbs. and the special 5/16 inch bolts to 10-15 ft.-lbs. No where will you find 30-35 on PART 8-5 Specifications which contain torque specs. This section does show both 12-15 for torqueing Stabilizer Bushing Brackets (not insulators?) and Stabilizer to Lower Control Arm Nuts.

I was bleeding the brakes and noticed the stabilizer bar insulators were cracked in several places. Then I read on the WWW that this could the reason for a few clunks when turning over a bump. Do the insulators come out readily after just removing the brackets only and not the entire bar?

Dean

[jopizz]

The front cross member guard is the brace in the center of the radiator support. You don't need to remove this in order to just change the insulators or the bushings. Once you remove the insulator bracket bolts the brackets will separate from the rubber insulators. How are the stabilizer bushings. If they haven't been changed it's probably a good time to do it.

John

[Deanj]

After considering maybe the stabilizer links and bushings might need attention, I bought Moog link kit. I went with rubber. I didn't buy the insulators from Moog only because I wasn't comfortable with the design difference.

The links, bushings, and insulators appears easy enough to replace unless anyone has a horror story to tell.

Dean

[Thunderherd]

While we're on the subject of stabilizers/sway bars, which vender Thunder is it that has them made. Wasn't it Thunder Bird Head Quarters ?

[Deanj]

The links and bushings are Moog, and the insulators are Tapco. I bought it from Bird's Nest.

Dean

[Thunderherd]

Thanks, but I should have been more clear. I was talking about the stabilizer bar itself. The heavy duty front and rear sway bars. Getting ready to order them, and would just as soon order from the company that has these bars made. I've read on here before just can't remember.

[simplyconnected]

Call Lance Herrington at http://www.thunderbirdsouthwest.com/

I bought my 1-1/8" bars from him and I couldn't be happier. - Dave

[YellowRose]

Stablizer Insulators

It is my understanding that Lance Harrington of Thunderbirds Southwest is the only person who has those heavy duty sway bars manufactured. Those who also might market them, get them from his company.

[Thunderherd]

Thanks Dave and Ray. That's what I was looking for. Will call him and order this coming week.

[Deanj]

The front insulators are one piece like the originals. Do you section these to install? These do not look like they slip over the bar end without damage.
Dean

[Deanj]

I measured my sway bar and it's 7/8s, yet the insulators aren't close to fitting. I loosened the new end links, but the insulators seem too large for the brackets and so the bolt isn't getting near the hole.

Could cutting the rubber have been a mistake where it causes the part to spread too large for the brackets?

Dean

[jopizz]

Replacing those insulators is one of the simpler jobs there is. If the new insulators are too big then something's wrong. Cutting the insulators so they slip over the bar is normal. Most come with the slot already cut. That's not your problem. It sounds like they are the wrong insulators for the size of the bar or the bracket.

John

[simplyconnected]

An OEM 7/8" sway bar is a joke. It really doesn't do much to help. My Mustang came with 1-1/8" bars that were a lot shorter than a SB stab bar.

I suggest you call Lance and purchase front AND rear 1-1/8" bars. You will notice a huge difference as the car will drive flat around corners, instead of rolling. BTW, stabilizer bars usually come with bushings. - Dave

[Deanj]

It sounds like they are the wrong insulators for the size of the bar or the bracket.

John

Dave...An OEM 7/8" sway bar is a joke. It really doesn't do much to help. My Mustang came with 1-1/8" bars that were a lot shorter than a SB stab bar.

I suggest you call Lance and purchase front AND rear 1-1/8" bars. You will notice a huge difference as the car will drive flat around corners, instead of rolling. BTW, stabilizer bars usually come with bushings. - Dave

Well, I goofed. it's about .70 which corresponds to the OEM sway bar.

However, the darn thing still won't fit. It's got to be the wrong part.

Now Dave is making me think the whole thing over. I just wanted to make my car better.

Dean

[simplyconnected]

...I suggest you call Lance and purchase front AND rear 1-1/8" bars...

I can't stress this enough. Lance sells and installs Thunderbird stabilizer bars. One of his customers shipped two T-Birds to him from the Boston area. Yeah, they're that good.

So, speak with Lance and get his 'take' on the subject. - Dave