Rear Quarter Power Window in UP

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

I am looking for some photos or advice on removing a Rear Quarter PW switch. The window is stuck in the UP position, and I don't hear to motor engaging. Before I start removing the interior rear quarter panel, I want to check the switch connections, maybe spray a little contact spray on there....if that doesn't work, then checking the circuit breaker, and so on....but let's start with the switch.

Is there any special tool required? Does it "twist off" or "pop off"? Shop Manual is not clear on this.

[jopizz]

To correctly remove the switch you need to remove the trim panel. You can try prying it out but I wouldn't recommend it. If it doesn't work from the switch on the door either then it's probably not the rear switch.

John

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

Trim Panel Removal

Ok, that's what I was afraid of. I'll post pics today and see how I make out!

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

Looks like Motor is Dead

Ok, For anyone who wants to know how to go through this, here is what I did:

I removed the Rear Quarter Trim Panel to expose the switch and all connections.



I then used a test light to see if I am getting any current.





I tested from both switches and I get voltage just fine all the way to the motor. I did a second check using a meter, and it was 12v and ample, so I am guessing my motor is shot.

I followed all the instructions in the shop manual as well, but the one thing I didn't find (and I check the opposite side) was the 15A ground circuit breaker. I checked under the mats and followed all the harnesses back to the dash....Can someone tell me where those circuit breakers on the ground are supposed to be?

It's on the wiring diagram....

[jopizz]

The circuit breakers should be under the back seat. They get bolted to the floor. It's on the black ground wire. That looks like it in your top picture.

John

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

Circuit Breaker bolted to the floor

HI John:

I never imagined them being bolted to the floor! I thought that was just the ground for the black wire. Ok, thanks for pointing that out.

However, since I am getting voltage to the motor, I am assuming that the motor is still the culprit. If the circuit breaker was bad, I wouldn't see a signal, correct?

~g

[jopizz]

Where are you grounding your test light. If you are grounding it directly to the black wire then the circuit breaker is good and the motor is most likely bad. If you are grounding it to the car body then the circuit breaker could still be bad. Ground your test light directly to the lug where the black wire is connected.

John

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

Perfect....I did the ground to the body...I will test today

Where are you grounding your test light. If you are grounding it directly to the black wire then the circuit breaker is good and the motor is most likely bad. If you are grounding it to the car body then the circuit breaker could still be bad. Ground your test light directly to the lug where the black wire is connected.

John

I am going to do that RIGHT NOW! I'll update shortly. That is a great suggestion!

Follow-up: It's the motor...I even tried tapping it a little bit with a rubber mallet....no love....so....I'll see if I can find a thread if someone has done this, but when I searched earlier, nothing...and of course the shop manual says "replace motor" but not how....but I love this!

[jopizz]

Here's the link to the article in the Technical Resource Library on rebuilding window motors. Even though it explains how to rebuild a 1960 motor the 1961-3 motors are similar.

http://squarebirds.org/images_motor-power-window/index2.htm

John

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

Perfect...If I can get it out I can probably do the rebuild myself.

Yes, If I can get it out today, I'll do the rebuild myself. I will put the car back together so we can drive it in the mean time though! Don't want it out of action!

[simplyconnected]

Are you familiar with how DC shunt motors work? Ford energizes ONE FIELD (red OR yellow) and the ARMATURE (green) at the same time. If both field coils are energized, the magnetism they produce negates each other and the motor doesn't move (in case kids press one button 'UP' and the other 'DN' at the same time.



If you are disassembling a motor and the case hangs, I suggest you grind the small rivets off on the cord-end. This should help to save the micarta brush holder. - Dave

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

Yep I am familiar with all that....but

my initial problem is just getting the motor out. I cannot gain access to the mounting nuts at the top of the motor. I can get to one, but there is no way for me to get to the other nor to the mounting bracket as described in the manual.

I must be missing something somewhere. The frame panels are spot welded so I cannot get access to the top of the motor.




Below is a picture of the motor, but the mounting nuts at the top of the unit are inaccessible. I did get the top-closest to the back nut off, but there is another on the other side I cannot get anything to.

Also, at the bottom of the unit are two nuts covered by the rubber sheathing that is all over the unit. I cannot loosen those either.

How do I get this thing off?

[jopizz]

I know on Squarebirds you have to use a small open end 3/8" wrench to get some of the nuts off. Even then it's a pain. I don't remember if Bulletbirds are the same way but I imagine so. I know I've taken them out without removing the regulator.

John

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

REgulator

I did find a thread, but I am not sure the difference on a 61 between the motor and the regulator.

It's just the mounting nuts are in behind a flange on quarter rear that I cannot get a wrench in there...I don't know how they did this.

Hmmm..well, I have a source in Escondido I'm going to ask tomorrow. I would like to try to repair the motor if I can.

[simplyconnected]

There is a learning curve involved but think of this job as an assembly line task.
First of all it's got to be fast and it must be done right. Assembly line people get one minute per car before the next one is upon them.

If you can't get the motor out by itself, pull the regulator out so you can get to the motor.

The window rollers have a 'hair pin' clip holding them in. Pull the pins out and the regulator will fall out of the window tracks.

Upon re-installing, slide the re-assembled rollers back in the tracks then push the regulator pins back into the rollers.