Steve's Ride

[Dan Leavens]

Looking good

[Yadkin]

A little sound addition to the rear panel. It only took me about 10 tries using grommets as spacers to get clearance from the outer sheet metal and still keep it tucked in behind the headliner. These are "RetroSound" 5x7, which are a shallow design, and I have about 3/16" to spare after installing the dynamat.

Now I have to figure on how to isolate the OE lamp so light doesn't bleed out though the headliner.

[Yadkin]

After several tries keeping oil from leaking out of the flimsy OE valve cover gaskets, I purchased these on eBay. NOS.

[scumdog]

Will the drivers side rear clear the brake-booster?

[Yadkin]

I think so.

[jopizz]

On my '66 someone put chrome valve covers on it and had to beat the rear driver's side in to get it to clear the booster. It's still a pain to get off and on.

John

[jhuebner]

My Cobra valve cover had to be modified to clear the booster, my friend cut it at a angel and welded a piece back on, you can compare the two before installation to see how much of a difference there is.

[Yadkin]

I'm not sure how tall these are. I'd rather sell them than cut them up. The shape is similar to OE. The Cobra covers are larger to clear rockers. We'll see...

[Yadkin]

The Offy valve covers finally arrived. They are old school cool and I'd like to use them. Unfortunately they will contact the brake booster. Is there a smaller booster available for these cars? I'd rather replace the booster than cut these.

[Yadkin]

This is the analog switch that controls the AC temperature. Both the heat valve and the AC switch are controlled by a single dash mounted lever in the second picture. To the left is colder, and that push-pull cable is connected to the dash control. To the right is warmer, and the second push-pull cable goes in the engine bay and turns the hot water valve from off to full on. So the AC gradually works less as the call for heat increases, allowing the system to reduce humidity. An on-off switch in series with the analog switch lets the operator turn the AC off at any setting.

[Yadkin]

Dash is back in!

[stubbie]

Hi Steve

I see you have laid Dynamat on your floors. I'm about to do the same. How particular were you in preparing the floors? Did you remove any old contact cement and or the joint sealer? I have surface rust on some sections so I am removing the old contact and hitting it with a wire brush before painting. But I was going to leave the joint sealer and just paint in between if you know what I mean. Did you only use 1 layer of Dynamat and does it conform to the contours of the floor if you use a heat gun?

Cheers Phil

[Yadkin]

I made sure the floor and other surfaces were clean and rust free. Leave seam sealer in place if it's intact. Wire brush surface rust and treat with POR-15.

Use a roller like this one to install the Dynamat.

Use the handle to work it into areas like floorboard corrugations. The mat stretches and conforms at room temperature- no need to heat it up.

[Yadkin]

Here's the monitor rough-in for my GPS and back-up camera. The lower dash panel on the passenger side has become another auxiliary electrical panel, complete with fuse block, and mounting for my radio "filter" box, and monitor power. Later on I'll mount the brain boxes that my son is building for the driveline monitor and cooling fan control.

[Yadkin]

I installed the lower dash panels, carpet retainers, and fitted the side chrome and gas pedal. The factory had installed these differently than the install manual, apparently installing the chrome and retainers "blind" in one step. That's not possible by myself so I carefully located the trim and had to do some drilling and cutting, even using a speed nut where the factory self-tapped hole tore through the bottom of the attachment tab.