Sagging rear end & Shock Absorbers

[DKheld]

Hope the ride height doesn't change but I'm guessing those coil over shocks and possibly that extra bracket on the leaf spring may be helping hold the rear up a bit. It will depend on how good or bad the leaf springs are.

I've found some coil over shocks but haven't received the necessary info on them yet. Unfortunately they are for a lighter car, expensive and are only available outside the US so may not pan out.



Doubt you can tell from these pics but my car doesn't have that extra bracket - can you tell why yours is there?





Maybe - if it rides good - clean them up and keep them on there?
Eric

[Daleo56]

I have not been able to find coil-over shocks with stud ends and am not a fan of helper springs so maybe I can just get them re-arched and use a basic shock. It answers the OP issue of increased height and gets me away from specialty equipment.

It would also be cool if there was a reference in the TRL for shocks. Since many of the years are different it would help during Searches if a list came up with modern equivalents from Gabriel, Monroe, KYB and Lakewood. Also since Courier and Rover shocks seem to be darn close it may help too to reference them as well.

Just my $.02

Tim

[toddgilroy]

My 60 convertible sits very similar to Tim's (bottom of fender at the top of the hubcap) and my springs look to be in similar condition to Tim's (minus the extra bracket).

I just replaced the old shocks with these Monroe 37191's at $26/each. These shocks never show up if you search for replacement shocks for a 1960 Thunderbird because Monroe only lists where they were OEM shocks.

There are several other options if you want something a little more "HD".

[Daleo56]

The previous post is a great example of why the TRL could use a shock list and some pictures. I had no idea that the 37191 was a stem/stem based on quick looks at the product pages.

http://www.monroe.com/retail/assets/downloads/english/08_MountingLengthSheet.pdf

Amazon, APW, Rock Auto and even MONROE have products pages of the 37191 with the incorrect picture. You have to dig around on the pages or have read some of this thread to know the difference between year and possible options.

My 60 convertible sits very similar to Tim's (bottom of fender at the top of the hubcap) and my springs look to be in similar condition to Tim's (minus the extra bracket).

I just replaced the old shocks with these Monroe 37191's at $26/each. These shocks never show up if you search for replacement shocks for a 1960 Thunderbird because Monroe only lists where they were OEM shocks.

There are several other options if you want something a little more "HD".

[toddgilroy]

I think the 37191's just hit the radar screen 2 months ago on this thread thanks to Dave Dare ~simplyconnected. Since then a couple of us have purchased and installed them in the last couple of weeks.

But I do like the idea of some additional "interchange parts" info.

1990's Land Rovers of various models seem to use these shocks or shocks with very similar dimensions on the front.

[YellowRose]

Sagging rear end & Shock Absorbers

If someone would like to take this project on and write up something for the TRL with pictures, I would be glad to post it in the TRL. I don't really know a lot about shocks.

[Guest]

Rear Suspension

The rear end on my '59 (352 with a continental kit) is weak and hanging low -- so low that my body weight of 195 pounds is enough make the whole car lean left when I'm aboard. Right now, I'm inclined to go with new McVeigh springs and air shocks but would like to get some input from other Bird nuts first.

I want to end up with a safe, comfortable ride -- and not something to be entered in a Mexican Road Race. I'm hoping to avoid installing sway bars. If it's a little low, that's OK, too. (Praise The Lowered.) If the front end is a little high, I can cut the coils a bit. (Again, Praise The Lowered.)

Your comments are welcome! Thank you. Roger

[simplyconnected]

Roger, I use McVeigh springs and I love them. Your situation is different because behind your rear axle, you have what amounts to a long lever (the continental extension) with a weight at the end (the tire).

I normally don't suggest this but you should contact Eaton Detroit Spring's technical department. They can calculate more exactly what you need, then they build it.

Sway bars do not affect your car's height at all. They only stop your car from leaning over around curves. If you like how 'flat' your modern car rides around expressway exit ramps, then you should install A PAIR of good sway bars. If you're still not sure about this, ask Eaton Detroit Spring. - Dave

[Daleo56]

The rear end on my '59 (352 with a continental kit) is weak and hanging low -- so low that my body weight of 195 pounds is enough make the whole car lean left when I'm aboard. Right now, I'm inclined to go with new McVeigh springs and air shocks but would like to get some input from other Bird nuts first.

I want to end up with a safe, comfortable ride -- and not something to be entered in a Mexican Road Race. I'm hoping to avoid installing sway bars. If it's a little low, that's OK, too. (Praise The Lowered.) If the front end is a little high, I can cut the coils a bit. (Again, Praise The Lowered.)

Your comments are welcome! Thank you. Roger

I have a small storage space in Duarte and am around if you need help or want to take measurements. I have a 1960 hardtop and am also in Arcadia (just South of Longden) all the time.

[Guest]

Arcadia Bird

I have a small storage space in Duarte and am around if you need help or want to take measurements. I have a 1960 hardtop and am also in Arcadia (just South of Longden) all the time.

If you're in Arcadia and have a few minutes to spare, you're welcome to stop by anytime. Roger Ward, 144 W. Norman Ave, Arcadia, 91007. (626) 447-7130. (Two blocks south of El Camino and one block west of Santa Anita.) I'm retired so I'm around most of the time. You can leave a message anytime on my machine; I rarely pick up the phone (too many solicitation calls.)

I've been following your progress here on the forum and would love to see your car whenever you're available. You can leave a message as to when and where it's good for you - and I'll be there! Thanks, Roger

[Guest]

Rear Suspension

Ray - Thank you for the offer but I'm unconcerned.

Dave and Daleo56 - Thank you for your input. Does anyone else have anything to add regarding my rear suspension issues?

[Guest]

rear suspension

Yesterday I put rear air shocks into my '59 Bird and today I ordered rear springs from McVeigh. When they're in and functioning, I'll write up a report.

[Guest]

McVeigh Rear Springs

Following Dave's suggestion here on the forum, I got a set of rear springs from McVeigh and following Nyles' suggestion I got a set of rear air shocks. The shocks went in fine; the springs are half way in (my mechanic hurt his back on another car before he completed the install.) I can't report on them yet but so far, it looks like my problem may be solved. The McVeigh springs have six leaves although I think the originals have five. It took three tries before UPS was successful in delivering them; the first two attempts resulted in empty boxes. The third time, McVeigh taped delivery instructions directly to the springs and sent them with no box! I'd rather have slightly scuffed springs than none at all! I have only good things to say about McVeigh's efforts to get them to me. I spoke to Lyle at McVeigh at (989) 826-3682. Cost was very reasonable: $110 each + $56 shipping for a total delivered cost of $276.

[simplyconnected]

Unless you deliver phone books out of your trunk, I would stay away from air shocks. Their purpose is to lift and greatly stiffen your suspension by charging the shocks with air.

Six progressive leafs should offer all the lift you need. Good shocks control the ride.

[Guest]

Rear Suspension Update

Today I finished up with the rear on my '59 Bird (352 cid with a continental kit and half the aftermarket A/C remaining. Here's a progress report after putting in McVeigh leaf springs and air shocks with 30# of air: I can't tell for sure if I'm happy (until I get some radials on the car) but it seems pretty good so far. The stance is about the same, near level with a very slight rake. I don't know the measurements from before (didn't take them) but afterward they are:
FRONT = 10 1/4" (bottom of front bumper to ground)
REAR WHEEL OPENING = 19 1/2" (no skirt, to ground)
REAR = 15" (bottom of rear bumper to ground.)
Next come radials; then, if necessary, it's on to sway bars.