plastic piece, ignition switch

[shortysbreath]

Just installed new petronix coil to go with petronix ignition. Wired coil directly to ignition switch bypassing resistor wire. Just like rebuilding a carb, in the process of putting ignition switch back in, I have a plastic sleeve, tapered on the inside on one end, which I'm guessing is an insulator?

Couldn't get the ignition to scrunch in so I could twist the plate that attaches it, so I left the plastic piece out and switch pushed right in. Car started immediately but it seems to start now when I take the pressure of key in start position.

I'm presuming the plastic part is in there for a reason. Does anyone know what that reason is, and, does the tapered/beveled end face in toward the switch or out?

Thanks

Phil

[jopizz]

The only plastic piece is the bezel that has the four key positions. Is that the piece that you left out? I've seen them break and the round piece that goes over the switch comes off. It should be all one piece and go in from the front of the instrument panel.

[shortysbreath]

The only plastic piece is the bezel that has the four key positions. Is that the piece that you left out? I've seen them break and the round piece that goes over the switch comes off. It should be all one piece and go in from the front of the instrument panel.

The piece I'm talking about is round, clear plastic, with a notch in one end. It fits over the switch. It was not attached to the 4 way chromed acc/off/on/start bezel. I glued it back together where it busted. Is it an insulator?

When I compressed the ignition back together, the car started right away, but sort of after I hit start. It did the same thing a year ago. Would start not when I turned the key to start but immediately after I released it from crank postion. I changed the starter relay and I think that fixed it. I noticed the starter relay and the batt cable seem to be getting very hot just after a short interval of cranking.

Thoughts?

[jopizz]

It's not really an insulator. It's a spacer to keep the ignition switch from moving around too much. If it cranks anywhere but in the start position either the ignition switch is defective or it is wired incorrectly. Make sure you have a heavy enough wire to the starter or it will get too hot. If it still gets hot it could be the starter breaking down.

[shortysbreath]

It's not really an insulator. It's a spacer to keep the ignition switch from moving around too much. If it cranks anywhere but in the start position either the ignition switch is defective or it is wired incorrectly. Make sure you have a heavy enough wire to the starter or it will get too hot. If it still gets hot it could be the starter breaking down.

It cranks only in the start position, but it seems to start when I release pressure off key in start position if that makes any sense. It did this once before. I installed a new starter relay and I think that fixed it. But I'm not sure.

The positive cable from the battery to the relay is the one getting hot. The ignition switch is new.

Thanks for the tips. When I get it all working right, maybe I'll teach a community college course on squarebird electrics.

[simplyconnected]

It cranks only in the start position, but it seems to start when I release pressure off key in start position... ...I installed a new starter relay and I think that fixed it... ...The ignition switch is new...

Here's a picture of your ignition switch:

There are NO connections to ground and it is not insulated from ground.

If you changed the switch, what did you get? Your new Key Switch should be EXACTLY like the original and all your dash parts should be re-used.

Electrically, when you turn the key to START, the "S" terminal and the "IGN" terminals on the Key Switch should have continuity (they are connected). When you release the key, "S" should be dead, but "IGN" is sustained with 12-volts.

Another problem area is with your Starter Relay. What did you get? Your new Starter Relay should have FOUR connections; two (for Batt & Starter motor), a skinny one for the start circuit (S), and another skinny connection for the ballast resistor cutout (I).

Simply running a wire to the Key Switch "IGN" post for your Pertronix is only half the story. You also need to connect to the aforementioned (I) post on your Starter Relay. I have seen aftermarket systems that include a diode to prevent backfeed, but you shouldn't need a diode.

Do you have a Shop Manual? If not, get one. I strongly urge you to become a paid member here, so you can post pictures. Other benefits come with a membership as well.

Hope this helps. - Dave

[simplyconnected]

The positive cable from the battery to the relay is the one getting hot...

This happens with excessive current draw for the size wire you are using.

Most owners never check brushes either in their starter motors or in their generators. They run their motors until failure, and simply buy new or rebuilt.

Do you know how much brush sets cost? Seven bucks.

Pull your starter motor and check your silica bronze brushes. If they are short, they are ok. If the brush holder is close to the commutator, change brushes. Same with your generator (and alternator). These brushes are carbon. You can save a very expensive ordeal with just a few bucks of prevention. BTW, while you have it out, clean the inside. Those little pieces of brush have nowhere to go and are highly conductive. Clean the inside and lube the bearings. This should lighten the current draw and keep your wires cooler. - Dave

[shortysbreath]

This happens with excessive current draw for the size wire you are using.

Most owners never check brushes either in their starter motors or in their generators. They run their motors until failure, and simply buy new or rebuilt.

Do you know how much brush sets cost? Seven bucks.

Pull your starter motor and check your silica bronze brushes. If they are short, they are ok. If the brush holder is close to the commutator, change brushes. Same with your generator (and alternator). These brushes are carbon. You can save a very expensive ordeal with just a few bucks of prevention. BTW, while you have it out, clean the inside. Those little pieces of brush have nowhere to go and are highly conductive. Clean the inside and lube the bearings. This should lighten the current draw and keep your wires cooler. - Dave

Thanks. That would explain the hot cable. I'll do that and let you know what I find.

[shortysbreath]

Here's a picture of your ignition switch:

There are NO connections to ground and it is not insulated from ground.

If you changed the switch, what did you get? Your new Key Switch should be EXACTLY like the original and all your dash parts should be re-used.

Electrically, when you turn the key to START, the "S" terminal and the "IGN" terminals on the Key Switch should have continuity (they are connected). When you release the key, "S" should be dead, but "IGN" is sustained with 12-volts.

Another problem area is with your Starter Relay. What did you get? Your new Starter Relay should have FOUR connections; two (for Batt & Starter motor), a skinny one for the start circuit (S), and another skinny connection for the ballast resistor cutout (I).

Simply running a wire to the Key Switch "IGN" post for your Pertronix is only half the story. You also need to connect to the aforementioned (I) post on your Starter Relay. I have seen aftermarket systems that include a diode to prevent backfeed, but you shouldn't need a diode.

Do you have a Shop Manual? If not, get one. I strongly urge you to become a paid member here, so you can post pictures. Other benefits come with a membership as well.

Hope this helps. - Dave

Thanks Dave. This site is a gold mine.

I don't have a ballast resistor. There was a resistor wire, but I bypassed it according to Petronix coil instructions and rep I talked to. I'll check the wiring on the starter relay tomorrow.

I do have a manual. I'll check that again too.

I'd like top become a paid member. How do I do it?

[simplyconnected]

Membership is only $20/ yr. See the button on the top/right "Donate to Site"? Click on that and follow the directions. Congratulations (in advance) for joining.
- Dave

[shortysbreath]

Membership is only $20/ yr. See the button on the top/right "Donate to Site"? Click on that and follow the directions. Congratulations (in advance) for joining.
- Dave

Dave,

Paypal is smarter than I am. Send me your mailing address and I'll drop you a check.

Phil

[YellowRose]

plastic piece, ignition switch

Hi Shorty, It is possible to donate to the Squarebirds Forum without having PayPal. Please do the following: You can send a check or postal money order for $20 made out to "Lincolns of Distinction" to:

Lincolns of Distinction
188 Arbogast Lane,
Morgantown, WV 26508

That is John Peters ~ driller to us. John handles alldonations to the Lincolns of Distinction and the Squarebirds Forums. It might be a good idea to put Squarebirds Forum either on the envelope somewhere or on the check or money order so that he knows you are a Squarebirds Forum member and not an LOD member. When he receives your donation, he will notify Dave and I and I will take the necessary action to let you know that you are now a Paid Member. You will see the "Member" icon appear by your user name. Paid Membership is good for one year.

[simplyconnected]

Wait a doggone minute... I kinda like the idea that he's going to send ME the check (for a change). Driller has enough money and besides, my Ford pension is going down every year. - Dave

[YellowRose]

plastic piece, ignition switch

LOL!! Let's not confuse anyone more than they are already! Here is the link that explains Donations and Paid Membership benefits. It also has the information in it as to how to make a donation if you do not have PayPal.

http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=39