Crank, crank, crank.....................start

[Guest]

I found when I left my 60 HT 352 sit for more than a week it would start much easier if I gave it 5 or 6 pumps and NOT engage the choke.Of course I live in Florida.Likely different if you live in the GREAT WHITE NORTH like some of us (Dano)LOL

[fomoco59]

Four good hard pumps of the pedal, then hold pedal down half-way when I turn the key works for me every time...of course it'll usually stall unless I keep revving it. I'm interested to see how (if) mine will start after sitting for a YEAR in May.

[protourbird]

Yes, you would use the three screws to turn the black cap to adjust.

[KULTULZ]

When the choke asm. is properly adjusted, one should be able to turn the key to RUN, FULLY DEPRESS the accelerator pedal (this sets the automatic choke), FULLY RELEASE the accelerator pedal, turn the key to START and the engine should start and run on its' own (fast idle).

The calibration sequence should be fully covered in the manual.

Now this is considering proper tune and fuel delivery.

[bcomo]

I agree with that -- technically.

It would be very interesting to know how many folks on the forum, can depress the pedal one time, and have it start up. No cheating -- original carb, and no electric fuel pump.

[Guest]

Not many I expect could say that.

[Penelope]

It would be very interesting to know how many folks on the forum, can depress the pedal one time, and have it start up. No cheating -- original carb, and no electric fuel pump.

Penelope starts first time, every time even after she has been sitting around for 3-4 weeks whilst I am away at the office. She has the original carb and fuel pump. I have always considered myself very lucky to get a car in such sound condition, and the more I read on here, the more convinced I am how lucky I was!

[Guest]

Every time every day. Can't let it sit for more than a week. All stock with a pony carb. rebuild. Runs GREAT! The two feet on the brakes is another issue.

[bcomo]

OK. That's two so far. Good.

[JohnG]

Question: Bill (Penelope)... gets excellent results. Located in Australia. Does the gas there have 10% ethanol in it like here??

From what I gather from earlier posts, the current U.S. gasoline has a significantly higher evaporative tendency than it used to have, meaning that if your car sits for weeks, you are working with a near empty float bowl and have to get the mechanical pump to fill it up before any combustion is possible.

If Bill is dealing with different gas, then that is of interest. If not then we need to study his details carefully.

If I'm all wet on this, don't hesitate to say so!

John

[bcomo]

John:

That would be good to know for cars that have a hard start after a week of sitting. I depends on the particular situation.

In my case, I have a new rebuilt 430 with hard start after 1 day. This problem also existed before the engine was rebuilt.

Fuel bowls are not empty. Good squirts of gas from the accelerator pump. Carb is completely rebuilt with correct metering rods and jets, choked and adjusted correctly, ignition is Pertronix I and new FlameThrower I coil using 12V with good spark at plug wires, new plugs with proper gap. New distributor cap, rotor and wires. Engine vacuum is steady at 18 Hg wth no leaks at carb base. Fuel pump pressure is 5-6 Psi. Timed at 6 BTDC, distributor timing is steady and bushings good, new vacuum unit operating correctly. I'm using Premium unleaded. I even rebuilt a second carb, with the same results.

After 1 day, it still takes 5 to 6 pumps and some cranks to start in the AM. The only way that it will start in the AM without pumping more than once is if I prime the carb with 1/3 a shot glass full of gas ---- my 430 loves lots of gas in the carb.

I've run out of ideas ---- anyone who can solve this gets $50

[JohnG]

hi Bart
I have a similar set up to yours except a 352. I am in MA so I probably have cooler air temperature than you. Most of the year mine starts with 1 pump and so quickly I almost worry about the transition oil pressure.

If we go to the center of the problem maybe we can figure something out. Only gasoline vapors will ignite. Liquid gas will not. So we have a choke to change the air-fuel mixture and increase the chance of vaporized gas getting near your spark plug.

Some things this brings to mind are as follows:

1) index your plugs. Mark the side that has the open electrode with a Sharpie and install them so the opening is facing your intake valve. Since you have some range of torque that is acceptable, this should be doable. (what gap are you using, anyway?)

2) What is the carb action like?? If we take it as given that we need vaporized gas in the cylinders then the question I would ask is: does the carb produce a squirt or a mist?? A squirt (stream) may be useless.

3) how do you know the Pertronix works well?? I know...it's supposed to, but how do you really know it produces a high quality spark?? Have you watched a spark plug which is laid against the block while the motor is cranked over? Do you have a spare distributor that you could try with a new set of points for the heck of it? (points are still $3-4 and a backup unit is not a bad thing to have around anyway)

4) float levels correct??

That's about all I can come up with for the moment...

John

[bcomo]

1. I can try to index the plugs. The gap is at stock .036 Should I try to open that up a bit.

2. Carb action produces a good squirt through the accelerator pump nossels. I don't remember ever seeing a mist from an acellerator pump. If it needs a mist, then why would it start immediately when I dump 1/3 shot glass of straight gas into it? It appears to be gas starved.

3. I can try to take a look at the spark at the plug itself. The spark at the plug wires looks good. I don't have another ditributor, but as a last resort, I could change back to points to see if that's the issue.

4. Float level, and float drop is fine. Once it starts, it's good for the whole day, start after start.

Thanks John.

[JohnG]

hi Bart

* I would leave the gap at .036 as long as the problem persists.

* the rest of what you write suggests you just plain don't have much gas to work with when you are trying to start.
You have played with the choke setting, I assume.

Could you put a see through fuel filter near the carb which would allow you to monitor the flow of fuel from the pump? You could do this without cutting your existing line by adding additional hose (unless you have solid steel line).

Does your carb has a little clear window that allows you to see the gas level in it??

John

[KULTULZ]

John:


In my case, I have a new rebuilt 430 with hard start after 1 day. This problem also existed before the engine was rebuilt.

Fuel bowls are not empty. Good squirts of gas from the accelerator pump. Carb is completely rebuilt with correct metering rods and jets, choked and adjusted correctly, ignition is Pertronix I and new FlameThrower I coil using 12V with good spark at plug wires, new plugs with proper gap. New distributor cap, rotor and wires. Engine vacuum is steady at 18 Hg wth no leaks at carb base. Fuel pump pressure is 5-6 Psi. Timed at 6 BTDC, distributor timing is steady and bushings good, new vacuum unit operating correctly. I'm using Premium unleaded. I even rebuilt a second carb, with the same results.

After 1 day, it still takes 5 to 6 pumps and some cranks to start in the AM. The only way that it will start in the AM without pumping more than once is if I prime the carb with 1/3 a shot glass full of gas ---- my 430 loves lots of gas in the carb.

Is the accelerator pump set to specs? There is usually a cold ambient temperature setting that delivers a longer stronger shot. You have no doubt that the choke is fully functional and calibrated correctly?

Describe exactly how you start the cold engine.

The engine has a HOLLEY or AUTOLITE? I can't remember on BIRDS.