New to thunderbirds and Ford, fuel pump help

[jopizz]

Yep, that's where it should be. I can't tell if part of the old tube is still in there and broken off. I hope not. You'll just have to try a new tube and see if it fits.

John

[Guest]

i couldn't tell either if there was still a piece in there or not. hope not. also here's a few pics my wife took of the car on the trailer when we got it home.

[YellowRose]

New to thunderbirds and Ford, fuel pump help

Chris, please go into your Photobucket account and change your settings on your pix to 800x600 pixels. Your pix are a bit over the limit allowed for this Forum. Thank you.

[Guest]

Okay, sorry about that.

[YellowRose]

New to thunderbirds and Ford, fuel pump help

Chris, you might consider contacting the previous owner and asking him what happened to the dipstick and the tubing it should be sticking into, to see what he has to say about that...

[Yadkin]

Thanks for the warning yadkin. Do you think the Carter fuel pump is any better quality

No clue here. Carter's been around a long time, but product names are bought and sold like currency these days and lots of stuff is made in China. Look at the casting carefully when you get it, the edges and numbers are tells. And above all, bench test it before you put it in.

There are plenty of youtube videos showing how to put one in and get the lever correctly installed on the cam, so spend a few minutes looking at those as well. It's the same basic setup as the small block Ford family (289-302-351W).

[Guest]

got the fuel pump and dipstick ordered and should be here before the weekend, i'll let yall know how it goes

[Guest]

got to work on the car for just a little bit today. installed the dipstick and new fuel pump. got the car to half way start. it would want to run as long as i was starting it and then would instantly die as soon as i quit holding the key in the crank position. i believe it is a wiring problem because there are some questionable wires going places that i'm going to have to double check. also while working on the car i noticed that the block is stamped c6me, so i guess it's not the original motor but one from a 66. i plan on trying to measure the stroke next weekend and seeing if its a 390 or 428 i've got. thats pretty much all for this weekend let me know if there is anything else i should check regarding the starting or what motor i have. thanks in advance

[simplyconnected]

I think we can help each other out. I don't have a '65 but I'm looking at the electrical diagram for one. It's basically like all the other Ford examples EXCEPT I do not see a ballast resistor or resistance wire feeding your coil.

Let's start at the Key Switch... A Black with Green stripe starts at there and continues to a junction block, probably at the firewall. On the engine bay side, that black/grn wire connects to a Brown wire. The Brown wire goes to your Starter Solenoid and the blk/grn continues to the coil (+) side.

Ok, you said when you crank the engine it fires. That is because the brown wire gets power directly from the battery at the Starter Solenoid, and it jumpers power up through the coil's blk/grn wire from that junction block.

Your job is to track down the black/green wire from that junction block to the Key Switch. Maybe the junction block is corroded or one of the wires fell off going to the Key Sw.

Now some background... The solenoid (brown) wire was there since before 1958, to bring full battery voltage directly to the coil, during the voltage drop, when the starter motor is running. It also bypassed the ballast resistor until the key was released. Your car has no ballast resistor so you don't need the brown wire because your Key Switch delivers full battery voltage.

Look at the bottom of your coil and see if it says,'internal resistor'. That would explain away the ballast resistor or resistance wire. - Dave

[Guest]

Thanks for the info Dave. I was looking at a simple wiring diagram in the shop manual and it has the wire from the coil going to the I post on the starter solenoid and then another wire from the I post going to the ignition. Is this wire to the ignition the black and green stripe wire I've got to find because right now I only have the wire from the coil going to the I post. It is like the po tried to wire it up but might have missed that black and green wire

[jopizz]

According to the '65 wiring diagram in the TRL there should be a red/green wire on the coil + terminal that goes into a pink resistance wire and then to the ignition switch. There is a brown wire that gets connected to the red/green wire that then goes to the solenoid.

John

[Guest]

One of my problems though is that the po has just regular black wires going to everything so the colors aren't correct. So I'm just trying to figure out where to run everything to. Right now the wire from the + side of the coil is run to the I post on the starter relay, but not to the ignition. Should I run a wire from the I post to the ignition? I'll probably end up redoing the wiring that he's done once I know where everything should go. I've got the shop manual and wiring manual for the car but it's just a little harder without having the correct color wires to know where everything should be going

[jopizz]

You need to run a wire from the coil to the ignition switch but there needs to be a resistance wire in between. If you look under the steering column you should see the pink wire. It's pretty obvious to see if it's still there.

John

[Guest]

I took some pictures if the ignition on the car at lunch, I'll post them tonight after work and hopefully you guys can help me figure out what I'm missing

[jopizz]

If the wiring has been replaced there's probably not much we're going to be able to tell you by pictures. You're going to have to use a voltmeter and see if you have 6 volts at the coil with the key in the ON position. If you don't then you are going to have to either trace the wires from the ignition switch out or replace them and put a resistance wire or coil resistor in the circuit.

John