Project Snowbird - 1960 Hardtop

[jopizz]

I agree with Ray. I would just go with the Edelbrock 1406. You are going to spend as much or more to find an original Autolite carburetor. 1960 used a one year only carb that had the fuel filter screw in the front as you can see from Eric's picture. Finding one of those is nearly impossible.

John

[Daleo56]

Tim, as I recall, a D0PF-9510-U tells you that it is a D=1970's part and the 0 tells you it is a 1970 part. If it was me, I would just put an Edelbrock 1406 on it and be done with it. I have one on my '59 and it is works great!

I agree with Ray. I would just go with the Edelbrock 1406. You are going to spend as much or more to find an original Autolite carburetor. 1960 used a one year only carb that had the fuel filter screw in the front as you can see from Eric's picture. Finding one of those is nearly impossible.

John

Thanks for the heads up. I run 1406's on everything and even have a calibration kit I take with me on higher elevation trips. I will need to run a power wire to the choke but it should be easy to pick up and run along the top of the valve cover.

The do look shiny and purdy...

[Daleo56]

Started and finished the intake gasket replacement today. What a paint in the tookas. I cleaned as much as I could and painted everything black. I painted the fan too.

It does not look any different but does not leak now.

Tomorrow I will work on the battery, the new carb and cleaning up the rest of the engine bay.

[Daleo56]

Today I changed the u-joints, trans seal and cleaned the drive shaft. The 7692 seal I bought was not the right one and the seal I pulled out of it was a 7300 (which was a National 68095) was not what I expected. Should I doubt my transmission type? I assumed it was original but that seal is 1965 or newer...

I also installed the new Power Punch battery and cleaned the power steering case top. Funny, the posts are reversed so I could not install it with the logo facing out. I will get new cables.

I also talked with John and decided to run the 1406 choke from the relay when I install the carb this week. I just need to figure out how to go from 1/8 pipe on the pump to 5/16 inverted hard line to the 3/8 AN fitting filter. Nothing is easy with this dang car.

A quick run to Pep Boys looking for AN fittings was a bust. They have them but not the one I need. The parking lot was semi-empty though...

[Daleo56]

Oh and I have a bolt on the lower passenger side water pump that is leaking water. WTH?

[Daleo56]

I decided to use my 600 cfm Holley instead of the 1406 since it would be easier to install and the fittings were in the right locations. Everything went together well and it runs just like the old one. Smooth and quiet.

I powered the choke with a fused wire from the relay and hid it under the vac line.

I also cut a larger hole in the air cleaner. It had one there already for the old PCV connector and since I am not going to drive in the pouring rain I should be ok.

I will run some hard lines this weekend and get it looking clean and semi-original.

[Tbird1044]

[QUOTE=Daleo56;93959]I decided to use my 600 cfm Holley instead of the 1406 since it would be easier to install and the fittings were in the right locations. Everything went together well and it runs just like the old one. Smooth and quiet.

I powered the choke with a fused wire from the relay and hid it under the vac line.

I also cut a larger hole in the air cleaner. It had one there already for the old PCV connector and since I am not going to drive in the pouring rain I should be ok.

I will run some hard lines this weekend and get it looking clean and semi-original.

That engine compartment is starting to clean up nicely. Just curious, what was the reason for cutting the hole in the air cleaner? I'm getting a set of 15 X 6 chrome spokes and am hoping they will work with the scarebird brackets for a disc conversion. Any thoughts? Think they have a 4" offset.
Been working on a friends car all week to fix some smaller things and also align all the windows. I'm getting better with the windows all the time. I took a 1/4 window out and got it back in and aligned in about 3 hours. Amazing the assembly line guys could do it in about 5 minutes. Unfortunately, this was the second time I did this window, as I had a bad roller. When I do my car, I really want a set of the brass rollers. I had 2 brass rollers already, but used one today, as one of the regulator posts was corroded and had a huge pit it it.
BTW, did you ever put the electronic ign. in or are you still running the points?
Nyles

[Daleo56]

That engine compartment is starting to clean up nicely. Just curious, what was the reason for cutting the hole in the air cleaner? I'm getting a set of 15 X 6 chrome spokes and am hoping they will work with the scarebird brackets for a disc conversion. Any thoughts? Think they have a 4" offset.
Been working on a friends car all week to fix some smaller things and also align all the windows. I'm getting better with the windows all the time. I took a 1/4 window out and got it back in and aligned in about 3 hours. Amazing the assembly line guys could do it in about 5 minutes. Unfortunately, this was the second time I did this window, as I had a bad roller. When I do my car, I really want a set of the brass rollers. I had 2 brass rollers already, but used one today, as one of the regulator posts was corroded and had a huge pit it it.
BTW, did you ever put the electronic ign. in or are you still running the points?
Nyles

Since 600 CFM is still too much carb for a 352 I wanted to get some more (and slightly cooler) air into the air cleaner. Hopefully some of what is coming in from the scoop will go in and not draw as much from over the hot exhaust.

No Pertronix yet, points for now.

You want to bring your rims up and try them out let me know.

[jopizz]

Since 600 CFM is still too much carb for a 352 I wanted to get some more (and slightly cooler) air into the air cleaner. Hopefully some of what is coming in from the scoop will go in and not draw as much from over the hot exhaust.

No Pertronix yet, points for now.

You want to bring your rims up and try them out let me know.

The original Ford/Autolite 4100 carburetor is 600 cfm.

John

[Daleo56]

The original Ford/Autolite 4100 carburetor is 600 cfm.

John

Yes. I would rather see it closer to 480 CFM like the 390's during the late 60's. I guess it is a matter of preference.

[Daleo56]

BTW, did you ever put the electronic ign. in or are you still running the points?
Nyles

Advanced Auto just had a $40 off any $100 or more purchase so I got the Pertronix for $78.99

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/pertronix-91281-ignitor-ii-adaptive-dwell-control-ford-8-cyl-91281/10110762-P

[Tbird1044]

Great move. In my world, an electronic ignition is right up there with a disc brake conversion in reliability. Remember to bypass the resistor wire going to the coil when you install the Pertronix, or you will only have about 7 volts to the new system.
Nyles

[Daleo56]

Great move. In my world, an electronic ignition is right up there with a disc brake conversion in reliability. Remember to bypass the resistor wire going to the coil when you install the Pertronix, or you will only have about 7 volts to the new system.
Nyles

I had installed Pertronix on three of my other cars before eventually going to HEI. I like the stock look on the Thunderbird so this will do nicely. I also have some new black Taylor wires on order so it should still look close to stock.

I am not looking forward to pulling the ignition to rerun a new wire though...ugh

[Tbird1044]

I pulled the ign. switch on a friends car about 2 weeks ago to replace the wire. It wasn't near as bad as I thought. Just disconnected the battery and wiggled the switch out to get to the contacts. The worst part was putting it back in. Definitely have your wife or a friend there when going back together. Pushing on the switch, against the spring pressure, is enough without struggling to get the latching piece in and turned to lock. When you replace the resistance wire, this is also a good location to tap into for the electric choke.
Nyles

[Daleo56]

I pulled the ign. switch on a friends car about 2 weeks ago to replace the wire. It wasn't near as bad as I thought. Just disconnected the battery and wiggled the switch out to get to the contacts. The worst part was putting it back in. Definitely have your wife or a friend there when going back together. Pushing on the switch, against the spring pressure, is enough without struggling to get the latching piece in and turned to lock. When you replace the resistance wire, this is also a good location to tap into for the electric choke.
Nyles

I ran the electric choke from the relay on the firewall.

Since I had the dash out I added six inches to the shorter wires on the ignition switch so it could come in and out without causing any binding. It just makes me mad I have to take that side trim apart since I had it all put back together.

Thanks for not using a fuse panel Ford ..!..