Need advice on getting this old bird started up.

[NYsquarebird58]

Like Dave, I am concerned about you starting your engine, Marcelo, without taking some precautions first. Unless you have drained that gas tank, taken it off, had it flushed out and treated, and put it back on, I would not put any gas in that tank and then try to start your engine. Any junk in that tank could be sucked up the gas line to the fuel pump, clog it up, or let it go through into your carb... If it were me, I would put some gas in a big glass jar or other container, and run a hose from it to the input side of your fuel pump and draw clean gas from it to see if the engine will kick over. If I am wrong about this, someone with more knowledge than I can knock me up along side the head for suggesting this.

My point is, IF you have a working fuel pump, and carb, you don't want to suck what gunk you might have in that gas tank into your fuel pump or carb and foul them up... If you have drained the tank, had it cleaned and treated, and back on the car, then draw your gas from it. I had to replace my gas tank with one that I got from one of our members here. Before I put it on, I took it to a local company that specializes in cleaning and treating gas tanks and they cleaned it out for me. Unfortunately, a couple of years later, this tank developed a leak, and I bought a new one.

Ray, I learned my lesson a long time ago regarding the fuel systems on cars that have sat for years. About 14 years ago I picked up a 67 Ford Galexie 500 4 door. She was a creampuff; not a spec of rust and only 42k on the clock. The only problem was she hadn’t been run in about 18 years. I changed the oil, popped in a new battery, gave the car a tune up and got her running. Well…it only took two days before the Galexie left me on the side of the road (the first time). First it was the carburetor – it got clogged up. The second time the Galexie left me stranded was when the fuel pump failed and then of course there was the time that I blew a radiator hose. Looking back; it was kind of funny having that thing towed back to my parents house every other day but I guess that’s how you learn.

Here are a couple of shots the 67 Galexie (my first Ford)













I was allot skinnier back then!

[simplyconnected]

Nice job! Nobody can tell whether the tank should be changed until you actually LOOK. Simply draining (which is a good start) won't get that black varnish out. Water won't either. Gasohol will, right at a time when you don't want it to.

There is also a screen at the end of your pickup tube. If this gets clogged, your engine will stop. Then, the fuel in your line will backwash it free again. Remember, crap inside has nowhere to go. I pulled FIVE HANDFULLS of rust out of my '55 Customline's tank, but it never leaked. Yeah... I ended up changing it. The new tank was exactly like the original including a drain plug in the corner (and a filler neck). New tanks have a tin coating inside and out. All the claims out there from 'Creme' to 'Wilwood' can't beat it; some sealers successfully clog your pickup screen.

I don't throw good parts at a car unless they really need it. Your tank may be clean. I just don't know because I can't see from this chair in Michigan. If you see crap, drain and pull the tank before your fuel lines become victim. There is a negative pressure on your fuel system. It doesn't take much to stop flow (like a loose hose connection) before you start sucking air.

Some of the guys put a filter just before the pump and another right after. If you filter before the pump, use a very large filter for low restriction.

These cars should be rock-reliable. Take your whole family from coast to coast and not worry about mechanical breakdown. They are built like tanks, designed for washboard county roads that we all had. - Dave

[NYsquarebird58]

I decided it’s not worth the hassle or risk of cleaning the old tank so I’m ordering a new one. I will also be ordering a new sending unit, tank straps and hardware. Is there anything else I’m missing?


Once I pull the tank out I plan on running compressed air down the fuel line (past the pump) to ensure that there is no crud stuck in the lines.


Also, that carb of mine looks like it would need a rebuild. I’ve never taken apart a carb and am weary about learning on this one. If I mess up on the rebuild it’ll be a nightmare for me to figure out what went wrong and why the car won’t start. Would any of you have any suggestions on who would be a good resource to rebuild my carb and what would be a fair price to pay? I would rather leave it the hands of a member if at all possible.

[simplyconnected]

See if you can beat this price from rockauto.com

SPECTRA PREMIUM Part # F35 Lock Ring Kit Included
38-1/8" x 20-1/4" x 9"

$195.79 + shipping

EDIT: Try using this coupon code for an extra 5% off:
78165015134852
Hope this helps. - Dave

[NYsquarebird58]

See if you can beat this price from rockauto.com

SPECTRA PREMIUM Part # F35 Lock Ring Kit Included
38-1/8" x 20-1/4" x 9"

$195.79 + shipping

This one, from ebay, that claims to be Canadian is $184.95 + $45.00 shipping ($229.95)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130647343969?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

The Rock Auto version is $195.79 + $11.75 shipping (207.54). That’s a savings of $22.41


As long as I can confirm that the Rock Auto version is Canadian, I’ll jump on that one. I’m just not sure because Rock Auto offers two versions: their “Regular Inventory” for $195.00 and their “Private Label” for $209.79. Coincidentally, when you check off the “Private Label”, it bumps the

shipping up to $18.95 for a grand total of $228.74.


I wonder what the difference is between the “Regular Inventory” and the “Private Label” Could one be the Asian knock off and the other the Canadian version?

[YellowRose]

FE Engines

The Spectra Premium tank IS Canadian made, as is the Private Label one. Spectra Premium company is in Canada. I checked out their website. The difference between the two is in the packaging. The Private Label one has different packaging. Everyone that I know of who has bought one of their gas tanks, buys the Regular Inventory one. My tank came from Spectra and in fact, I think they are the main gas tank manufacturer for Tbird gas tanks.

[DKheld]

Purchased a replacement gas tank for my Tbird from the guy on ebay (MQP products). It was Canadian made. Fit perfectly using the old straps - even the original gas cap fit. I think they are selling with a rubber seal for the sending unit now however mine came with a cork seal and new metal ring - worked fine but used gasket sealer to be sure of no leaks. Cost was $209 delivered.

Before that I had my original tank boiled and plasti-coated trying to keep the original tank but still had trouble with fuel delivery. Replaced the line from the tank to the pump, filter etc. I have been told that the plasti-coat breaks down with the ethanol in the fuel these days so that is a possibility. Cost about $125 to have the tank boiled and coated - thought I was saving money - ha.

No trouble at all since installing the new tank.


Eric

[simplyconnected]

How long ago was that, Eric?

[DKheld]

Yikes - time flies when your spending money - that was 3/2009. Cost was $165 +tax and $40 shipping.

Eric

[simplyconnected]

Yeah, that's about right... This one turned out to be just under $200 delivered to his door.

[NYsquarebird58]

I just places an order for a new gas tank from Rock Auto as well as a bunch of other parts. I've never ordered from them before but I gotta tell ya, there prices are very competitive.

This promotional code is good until 2/17: C7443AD625AA It'l get you 5% off your order. Once that one expires just google a new code. It looks like Rock Auto changes them regularly.

[NYsquarebird58]

I wanted to order a thermostat, but there are several choices and they range from 170-195 degrees. What temperature should I choose?

[YellowRose]

Need advice on getting this old bird started up.

Hi Marcelo, There are a number of threads discussing the benefits or drawbacks of different ranges of thermostats. Using the "Search" feature on our Forum in the black border, I did a search on "Thermostats" and came up with this one which I thought was a really good one on 160 vs 180 thermostats. The consensus is, to my understanding that a lot of our members are using 180 thermostats with no problems. Some think that 160 can be to low. Read through this link and I think it will help you.

http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2336&highlight=Thermostat&page=2

In regards to Rock Auto, they are good people to do business with. They are one of the vendors who give discounts, and they are also a member of this Forum. As a Paid Member you can check out their posts under the Members Conference Forum.. You will also see special offers that are available to our Paid Membership there by our vendors or other Paid Members.

[NYsquarebird58]

Hi Marcelo, There are a number of threads discussing the benefits or drawbacks of different ranges of thermostats. Using the "Search" feature on our Forum in the black border, I did a search on "Thermostats" and came up with this one which I thought was a really good one on 160 vs 180 thermostats. The consensus is, to my understanding that a lot of our members are using 180 thermostats with no problems. Some think that 160 can be to low. Read through this link and I think it will help you.

http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2336&highlight=Thermostat&page=2

In regards to Rock Auto, they are good people to do business with. They are one of the vendors who give discounts, and they are also a member of this Forum. As a Paid Member you can check out their posts under the Members Conference Forum.. You will also see special offers that are available to our Paid Membership there by our vendors or other Paid Members.

Ray, thanks for posting that thread. It looks like 180 degrees is the way to go for my application. I placed a big order with Rock Auto this morning so when that comes in I’ll have most of the parts needed to get the Thunderbird running.


For the most part, I’ve done my ordering online. I’ve ordered from Summit Racing, Rock Auto and Concourse parts. The last few bits like all the belts, hoses, rubber fuel lines, hose clamps, battery, thermostat and fluids I’ll pick up at the local auto parts store.


We’re getting close and I’m hoping for a warm dry weekend in the next few weeks.

[davidmij]

Yes, Rock Auto IS very competitive. When I did my front disc brake job on my 59 I got almost everything from them - thx to Mr Dare and the others who compiled the spreadsheet with comparative pricing.
My 59 had sat for 15 years and the tank was pretty rusted. I pulled it, cleaned it with acetone and gravel and it was still rusty. I've been using it as is, but once I put the new motor in I'm going to buy a new tank - don't want to risk running the dirty fuel through it.