Type F fluid will find the smallest hole. I had three areas for leaks in my '64.
1. Main seal behind the torque converter. Obviously this is the most $$ to fix so you want to diagnose it correctly. It manifests itself by dripping through the bottom of the dust cover at the front of the bell housing. Requires taking the transmission out. I put a new seal in and it immediately started leaking again, so I rebuilt the transmission, finding that the first bushing was badly worn, almost to the point of wearing through and ruining the case.
2. Dip stick tube. Yours might be different, but in '64 the dip stick tube does a 90 degree and screws into the side of the pan as an inverted flare fitting. It didn't matter how much I tightened it it would still leak. So I took it apart, cleaned up the connection as best as I could, dried it, then put a thin smear of RTV copper on the joint before assembly.
3. Pan gasket. The factory bolt torque is 10-13 #-ft which is about twice what the flimsy steel pan flange can handle. Take the pan off and inspect it. If yours is like mine the flange is distorted. I have a large flat steel plate on my work bench so I put the pan on it flange down then used a short length of 1/4 hardwood dowel as a drift to make it flat. Before I reassembled I used a rubber gasket and glued it onto the flange with black RTV, then let it set for at least an hour on my flat plate with a jug of water on the pan to weigh it down. Then I installed the bolts in the gasket holes, used RTV again on the case side of the gasket, then torqued it in several stages, but only to 5 #-ft.
After all this my garage floor is dry.
1. Main seal behind the torque converter. Obviously this is the most $$ to fix so you want to diagnose it correctly. It manifests itself by dripping through the bottom of the dust cover at the front of the bell housing. Requires taking the transmission out. I put a new seal in and it immediately started leaking again, so I rebuilt the transmission, finding that the first bushing was badly worn, almost to the point of wearing through and ruining the case.
2. Dip stick tube. Yours might be different, but in '64 the dip stick tube does a 90 degree and screws into the side of the pan as an inverted flare fitting. It didn't matter how much I tightened it it would still leak. So I took it apart, cleaned up the connection as best as I could, dried it, then put a thin smear of RTV copper on the joint before assembly.
3. Pan gasket. The factory bolt torque is 10-13 #-ft which is about twice what the flimsy steel pan flange can handle. Take the pan off and inspect it. If yours is like mine the flange is distorted. I have a large flat steel plate on my work bench so I put the pan on it flange down then used a short length of 1/4 hardwood dowel as a drift to make it flat. Before I reassembled I used a rubber gasket and glued it onto the flange with black RTV, then let it set for at least an hour on my flat plate with a jug of water on the pan to weigh it down. Then I installed the bolts in the gasket holes, used RTV again on the case side of the gasket, then torqued it in several stages, but only to 5 #-ft.
After all this my garage floor is dry.
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