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Thanks for the name, I'll be checking. Have tried a couple of possible fixes, but so far, no help. Even tried using a nonconductive screw to screw down the triangular plate. Didn't work..... Hopefully Carl will have what I need.
Juan, if I really needed those parts and couldn't get them, I would go to my local hobby store (a good one that sells radio control and airplane stuff).
Bring a screw with you. Buy small plastic tube and some plastic washers. Make the washers just fit your existing screws and put a small length of plastic tube over the threads.
That will work. But, your hobby store just might have the nylon parts you are looking for. These parts are not that hard to make, and God knows, any restorer must make a lot of parts that just aren't around any more. Use your imagination and form your skills.
The metal horn ring is available but at a cost. At least some parts are still available... - Dave
Believe me, I am trying different ways. I have pretty much determined that the problem is that I can not torque the three screws down enough without them coming loose. I really believe that the threads are worn and or stripped to the point that they will not hold the pressure when the three screws are tightened down. I need that part, the one that the three screws screw into. I would post a picture, but I don't know how. I have even thought about just drilling the hole through and using a nut at the end. Washers and nonconductive screws are available at ACE, just can't get them cinched down. Thanks for your input and I will keep trying stuff. Any ideas are appreciated as I am not getting any response reference the parts.
I think that making the holes bigger will just escaltae to having to make the holes on the plate biiger as well. If the parts don't pan out I think I am going to just drill the holes all the way through and use a longer, same size threads, and use a nut on the other end. I don't think that the nut will interfere with anything.
I probably have the parts on their way. Carl says he has them all and I have PayPal'd him the money. Hope it all works out.
I'll let you all know.
Thanks
If your going to just put a nut on the end just get longer screws and put the nuts on them using what ever threads are left in the plate.Really no need to drill out the threads............. I think
Thought about doing that also, but I think it will be easier to just use a longer screw (bolt) and put a nut on the end. If I was to try and drill the hole just so the existing hole is just long enough so that a nut can be added, I would have to cut down the length of the material that surrounds the shaft. The existing screw is only 1/2 inch long. The metal that surrounds the threaded hole is about 3/4 inch long. Going all the way will be easier and serve the same purpose. But again, I think I have found some replacement parts and have ordered them. Once I have them, I will tinker with the one I have and keep it as a reserve part.
Thanks
OK, I got my parts in and have put everything back together.....and it's a NO GO. Still don't work!
It seems that I don't have enough space between the Snap on lock washer at the triangular plate and the plate. I have continuity at all points in between. So I guess the question is.....How do I get more space between the Snap-on Lock Washer and the Plate? Can I just tighten down on the three screws some more? I am again at a loss.
I have followed all the direction and pictures to a Tee and I may just disconnect the horn. Otherwise I won't be able to drive my car anymore.
Any more ideas? HELP!
...Can I just tighten down on the three screws some more?...
Overtightening the screws will only make them strip.
A few times I have invited you to send pictures to me. Instead, you sent me an email that said you don't have a picture.
I am sure, if I saw you weren't using fiber or nylon washers, I would have caught that right away. In the absence of pictures I can only go by what you tell us and guess at the rest. This is a simple problem that should have been fixed long before THIRTY posts. Keep using continuity tests because that tells the real story.
I will say again, in order for the horn to work, the bottom plate needs to be electrically isolated from ground. That big spring pulls the stack up off the retaining clip. (Didn't I go through this?)
If the 'stack' is too thick there will be no space under the 'retaining clip' and your horn will blow because of a dead short. Possibly, your cork gasket is too thick. Try using a stiff cardboard instead of the cork just for a test.
Many thousands of Thunderbirds successfully used this setup:
It works very well unless your parts are broken or you are using wrong parts. - Dave
Hey, I don't intend to offend anyone with my posts. Sorry if I have. All I can tell you is that I have followed the diagram, step by step, and it did not work. I have used the parts that I purchased from Carl, they are not new, but seem to be in good condition.
Thanks for all you help and I will not post on this subject anymore. I will figure it out.
Thank you all.
I feel a little offended my self regarding your reply. Not everyone is an expert at working on these cars. I never professed to be an expert, as a mater of fact, I am just a retired Cop that enjoys old cars and happens to have a restored 59 Thunderbird. This is my hobby and I do the best I can, asking for advice when I have a problem and giving input if and when I feel my input will help someone. I am sorry that what you ask me to do does not work. I followed the instructions as listed and as shown and it has not worked. As for the pictures, I didn't say that I didn't have pictures, I said that I did not know how to post them on this forum.
I do not intend to give any more input or ask for anymore input on this forum. If I am allowed to stay on as a member, I may use it from time to time for my own purpose and to try and self help my endeavors as a problem may present itself, but I will not bother you, or anyone else with my useless input.
There are other sites that I visit that have information and have never been treated in this manner. I am not a little kid to be put in my place for not knowing as much as you might know.
Thank you all for your help.
Juan
Juan, the illustrations and advice I gave is exactly the same as I would give ANYONE. We all try our hardest to help fellow restorers, enthusiasts, and users.
I don't know you and have no reason to think badly of you, what so ever. I understand everyone has a different level of mechanical and electrical aptitude and so does the Shop Manual. That is why I gave further illustrations from our members and from the Master Parts Catalog.
Of course, you may make full use of Squarebirds.org but being a non-paid member has limitations. Posting pictures is one of those restrictions. That is why I invited you to send your pictures to my personal email address, a few times. You refused and continue to do so.
I would love to apologize but I don't know what for. We have done the very best we can short of fixing your horn ourselves. There are restoration shops that do this kind of work so I suggest you follow that avenue. Their mechanics are much smarter than I am; show them these posts with your parts, as I'm sure they will help you fix your horn.
I am sorry you feel offended but we have done all we can and have shared all of our resources. I am retired as well and can identify with your situation. Sometimes it's worth the money to hire a professional because they can do a job faster than we can. Cheers. - Dave Dare
Edit: This is the only email Juan sent. There are no attachments or pictures. I don't understand why he sent an email that says, "I didn't get a picture."
Sorry Juan, you might have our forum confused with the AACA forum, where you did post pictures.
Juan, it is very difficult to help troubleshoot a problem when one is not present to see what the problem actually is. It is like a surgeon trying to diagnose a patient from halfway across the country without being able to see the patient or pictures/xrays or MRI's of the patient. Having pictures of your horn area would certainly have helped with that diagnosis and troubleshooting. Dave offered to post pictures for you if you would have sent them to him. There are three ways to post pix on this Forum and I have covered them many times. In fact, I cover them every time a new user joins our Forum in my welcoming comments in New Members Welcoming. One is to become a Paid Member and you can post pix directly on our server to your hearts content. Another is to use one of the free picture hosting websites like Photobucket and then put the link to them on the Forum (keeping those pix to 800x600 size). The third way is what Dave offered you. If you would have sent them to him he would have posted them for you. If you had, then he, I and others on this Forum would have been better able to help you troubleshoot and fix the problem. I will make you the same offer that Dave did. Send any and all pix you have taken of your steering wheel/horn area before you started working on it, and after you got into it. Perhaps with those pix, we can pinpoint why you cannot get the horn to work. We have done about all we can to try and help you fix it, but it is VERY difficult to do without knowing what readings you are getting, what the problem area looks like before and after you get into it, and not being there with you, but it can be done. We would love to help you solve the problem and get your horn squared away. So send me some pix and I will post them for you.
Although there were no answers to his posts, I noticed in the last picture that his nylon washers are upside down, preventing the screws from descending all the way and further pushing the stack against the "C" clip.
I hope these new nylon washers aren't ruined. - Dave
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