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Old 02-24-2017, 11:36 PM
hpozz33 hpozz33 is offline
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Default axle leak

I found that gear oil is leaking from behind my rr wheel. I would think that its the axle seal that said how do I pull the axle and replace the seal. Is there a video that outlines the job or least some pictures that can help me get the job done.

please disregard I found how to search and got what I needed

Last edited by hpozz33 : 02-24-2017 at 11:52 PM.
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Old 02-25-2017, 02:28 PM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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Sometimes the axle corrodes in the seal area. If so a sleeve repair kit can be done by a professional.
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Old 02-26-2017, 12:58 PM
Deanj Deanj is offline
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Those are the rear axle seals leaking. There is a 1965 Mustang You Tube video that outlines how to replace. Copy this link: Important note that on Squarebirds you'll need a slide hammer to pull the axles, then use the same slide hammer to pull the seals, and you'll need a seal installer to install the new seals to make this project easy.

I went to O'Reilly's and bought 2 seals and 4 axle backing plate gaskets (the manual calls for 1 on each side) . The parts store will "rent" a slide hammer with all the attachments and a seal installer. The rental is free, but you pay for the tools and get a full refund upon return.

Basically, remove the drum to expose the axle end. It will have an access hole to unbolt the 4 bolts holding the axle. Use your lugs to bolt up the slide hammer puller and remove the axle. Use the slide hammer with a seal puller attachment to remove the seal. Clean the axle end and install the new seal with the installer and a hammer. Clean off the old axle backing plate seals and install new ones with Permatex Aviation form a gasket. That's what I like to use. Reinstall the axles and torque to 35 foot-pounds. Don't forget the brake-kleen if you need to tidy up the brakes. Re-install drum and wheel.

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Old 02-26-2017, 01:36 PM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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It's always a good idea to take this opportunity to completely clean out the rear end, old lubricant and sludge. Take the drive shaft out, remove the pinion gear set, drain the fluid, then use a broom handle to push a rag down both shaft sides and move it at the center. Do that several times, get it all nice and clean for it's next 50 years of service.

Order a pinion gasket or used grey RTV. Change out the U-joint at the rear since you'll have it out anyway.
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Old 02-26-2017, 04:19 PM
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scumdog scumdog is offline
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Instead of a slide hammer you can sometimes get away with putting the brake drum back on inside-out, put on three wheel nuts on about 6 turns each and also tapered end out.
Then use the drum as a poor mans slide hammer - I use old drums for this 'just in case'!

NB: it won't work EVERY time, especially if the axles haven't been out for a long time, you may still have to get hold of an axle puller.

And I use RTV instead of those thin paper gaskets that you are meant to use with the axle retaining plate.
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Old 02-26-2017, 07:03 PM
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simplyconnected simplyconnected is offline
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These are all good suggestions and you should take this opportunity, spend extra time and do the job right. I like using 'free' tools from the major auto parts stores. As an alternative to the loose brake drum, I have used a loose wheel (yep the whole thing). It has more mass to jerk that axle out.

I particularly like Yadkin's suggestion about washing the axle out. This is important. You may need to buy extra gaskets but fresh, clean gear lube in a clean housing should be done at least once per 60,000 miles. Tiny metal particles lodge in nooks all over the inside of your housing. For solvent, I use diesel fuel or kerosene (not gasoline). It's safe, cheap and it washes oil nicely.

If you have a limited slip diff, don't forget to add friction modifier for the clutch plates.

If you use sealer, make sure it is 'oil compatible' like Permatex Black. Regular silicone will break down in oil and it becomes a gummy mess. - Dave
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Old 02-26-2017, 09:36 PM
Astrowing Astrowing is offline
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I have used a length of chain and a short 2x4 and a sledge hammer to tap the axles out

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