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  • Deanj
    Super-Experienced
    • Nov 26 2015
    • 631

    Rivet Tool

    Would someone please identify the exact rivet tool needed for replacing the Upper Vent Bar Channel Seals? The chrome rivets are included with the replacement seals, but I've never dealt with this type of rivet. I think it's a pan rivet. I would think you'd drill the old out and rivet in the new unless someone knows how to re-build the existing ones on the car.
  • partsetal
    Super-Experienced
    • Jun 4 2005
    • 853

    #2
    Check this thread as it may help with your issue

    Carl

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    • Yadkin
      Banned
      • Aug 11 2012
      • 1905

      #3
      On some of these rivets I ended up replacing with stainless screws and nuts.

      Comment

      • Deanj
        Super-Experienced
        • Nov 26 2015
        • 631

        #4
        I like the idea of screws and nuts. I would have thought that would be the standard replacement method.

        The link is telling me to go 3/32 hollow rivets and that's the look you get.

        As usual, once you remove the original rivets, you have committed to the job one way or the other.

        Comment

        • simplyconnected
          Administrator
          • May 26 2009
          • 8787

          #5
          I don't like using Velcro because channel has a stainless bead that crimps the material. This finishes the material ends. Not all channels are available for sale so like most restorers, I make do with what IS out there.

          I buy extra long channel, usually for other Ford cars, then drill the necessary holes for brass rivets. The end result looks factory stock when done. A word of caution... When drilling out the old rivets make sure you don't open the hole any wider or your new rivet won't fit right. I use a smaller drill bit and go slow.

          The crimp tool I use has a die made for rivets. It resembles a fancy little vise but the important part is the die. It's made to curl the rivet end over in one operation, by turning a tee handle. Most of the rivets I use are flat top and that part goes on the glass side. A screw head is never small enough in the channel. Some portions assemble three or more stacks of stainless parts so the rivet job needs to be right or it turns out badly. - Dave
          Member, Sons of the American Revolution

          CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

          "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
          --Lee Iacocca

          From: Royal Oak, Michigan

          Comment

          • Yadkin
            Banned
            • Aug 11 2012
            • 1905

            #6
            Originally posted by Deanj
            I like the idea of screws and nuts. I would have thought that would be the standard replacement method.

            The link is telling me to go 3/32 hollow rivets and that's the look you get.

            As usual, once you remove the original rivets, you have committed to the job one way or the other.
            A dot of red Loctite on the screw threads makes the assembly permanent.

            Comment

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