1965 TBird Brake Problems

[1965TbirdMan]

Ok i have a 65 t bird and i purchased knowing the brakes werent working correctly i was told the master cylinder was bad so replaced it and all the brake lines except for the rubber hoses on the front (the ones that go into the calipers) and the back before the t splitter.

My problem is i have front brakes but pedal wont come off the floor right away but does after a bit, nothing comes out off the back bleeders but losen lines and fluid leaks out, also air bubbles still coming out of caliper so i know i need to continue to bleed but been working on this for awhile am i missing something or is there a trick please help thanks

[RustyNCa]

Ok i have a 65 t bird and i purchased knowing the brakes werent working correctly i was told the master cylinder was bad so replaced it and all the brake lines except for the rubber hoses on the front (the ones that go into the calipers) and the back before the t splitter.

My problem is i have front brakes but pedal wont come off the floor right away but does after a bit, nothing comes out off the back bleeders but losen lines and fluid leaks out, also air bubbles still coming out of caliper so i know i need to continue to bleed but been working on this for awhile am i missing something or is there a trick please help thanks

So you replaced all the metal lines, but not the rubber lines?

Personally.... after having the back line break on a drive and discovering why Ford's single res. master was such a colossal mistake. Imagine having zero brakes at all, it's a feeling I won't soon forget. It ended okay for us, but if the fluid had been out only a few minutes earlier, I would have destroyed my car, my friends BeLair I was following and probably hurt a number of people.

I would not replace the master with another stock single, I changed it over to a dual master from a Mustang and replaced all the rubber lines.

That off my chest....

Are you loosing any fluid in the system?
Are you sure the booster is any good?
Did you pull the back drums and check the linings? I ask since you say you have front brakes, but don't mention rear.

Could be you need to tighten up the back brakes and you are using to much pressure to move an out of adjustment set of brakes.

Also till you get all the air out of the lines, things are going to not work well anyway.

How I do it is take a clean glass jar, fill it up partially with brake fluid, get a clear tube that fits over the bleed screw and submerse it in the jar. Start bleeding the brakes at a corner till it quits bubbling and move to the next one.

Also did you bench bleed the master before you installed it, that will help shorten up the amount of air you are dealing with.

[1965TbirdMan]

Correct i didnt replace the rubber lines, i also didnt check the linings i will do that i heard that i could use a 73 f100 master cylinder and it would work, off of a 2wd because it was disk/drum, yes i did bench bleed the master cylinder so your saying summerge the hose in the brake fluid jar, booster should be good, also i will have to check the brake adjustment to make sure they are tight, if i switch over to the dual cylinder will i have to remove the proportioning valve or switch or replace anything else, thanks for the help so far

[simplyconnected]

Yeah, there are a few things going on.
If your M/C is new or rebuilt, it needs to be 'bench-bled'. There are several internet sites on how to do this. It is possible to do it on the car, but you will go through a lot of brake fluid. The M/C needs to be level during the process.

I hope you got a dual-master cylinder, for your safety.

Does your car use a combination proportioning valve? You said, 'calipers' so I assume you have one. The combination valve will prevent fluid from running out the rear lines. It is designed to shut off fluid from an open line.

My suggestion: Bench Bleed the M/C, first (on the bench). It will take a good twenty pumps. Put the M/C back on your booster. Bleed the lines starting with the RH-Rear. If flow stops, do a front caliper, then go back to the rear. Again, prop valve is doing its job. To 'reset' the proportioning valve after you're done, simply depress the pedal. The fault light should go off.

If your rubber flex hoses leak, they normally leave witness marks of fluid on the floor, and they eternally suck air. An old flex hose can collapse from the inside, stopping flow. It's easily checked by cracking lines along the way.

I usually wrap my bleeder valve threads with teflon tape. Brake fluid won't affect teflon, the teflon keeps water out, and it makes a good thread lubricant for three years down the road (when you bleed them again).

One good thing is, you should not need to spend more money on your brake system. - Dave

[RustyNCa]

Correct i didnt replace the rubber lines, i also didnt check the linings i will do that i heard that i could use a 73 f100 master cylinder and it would work, off of a 2wd because it was disk/drum, yes i did bench bleed the master cylinder so your saying summerge the hose in the brake fluid jar, booster should be good, also i will have to check the brake adjustment to make sure they are tight, if i switch over to the dual cylinder will i have to remove the proportioning valve or switch or replace anything else, thanks for the help so far

When we did my car, all we added with the disc/drum master and had to do some changes to the plumbing before the p valve. I could take some photos for you this weekend, and get you the part number off the box for the master we used.

[1965TbirdMan]

Thanks yea if you take some pics that would be great really appricate it

When we did my car, all we added with the disc/drum master and had to do some changes to the plumbing before the p valve. I could take some photos for you this weekend, and get you the part number off the box for the master we used.

[RustyNCa]

Thanks yea if you take some pics that would be great really appricate it

Got in the mood to drive ol Lola, and here are some photos I took this morning for you.

In the photos you can see where we notched the brace (I thought it came out looking pretty factory ). In the third photo you can see how we ran the brake lines. The lines going into the tee are the factory lines. The front line is a new line that joined up to the original hard line. So we didn't change the factory lines at all.

[1965TbirdMan]

So i found this master cylinder off of a 1967 Mustang, chances of it working?

[RustyNCa]

So i found this master cylinder off of a 1967 Mustang, chances of it working?

Looks alot like the one I used, but I will check the box tomorrow for you.

[RustyNCa]

Looks alot like the one I used, but I will check the box tomorrow for you.

Okay, the master I used was a Raybestos MC36251 for a 67 to 70 Mustang, disc front, drum rear.

The smaller front reservoir goes to the rear brakes, and the larger back went to the disc.

So you are on the right track with that 67 master.

[1965TbirdMan]

Thanks alot for all the help, will let you know how it turns out and if i have anymore questions, thanks again

[1965TbirdMan]

Ok so should i go with raybestos master cylinder you mentioned or would the one i found at autozone work they both are 67 master cylinders and should have the same specs right, so would it work? Thanks

[RustyNCa]

Ok so should i go with raybestos master cylinder you mentioned or would the one i found at autozone work they both are 67 master cylinders and should have the same specs right, so would it work? Thanks

I would think the autozone one would work fine. Is it a reman. one? I know some parts from autozone come with a "lifetime" warranty.

I chose the raybestos one, because a friend that has a wheel and brake shop did the research for me, got the part and gave it to me.....It bolted on, worked like a charm and caused no drama, so thanks Jeff...

[1965TbirdMan]

I would think the autozone one would work fine. Is it a reman. one? I know some parts from autozone come with a "lifetime" warranty.

I chose the raybestos one, because a friend that has a wheel and brake shop did the research for me, got the part and gave it to me.....It bolted on, worked like a charm and caused no drama, so thanks Jeff...

They offer a reman one or a brand new one, price is about the same, so probably go with new if it doesnt work ill put it on ebay and go with the raybestos, but i dont see why it wont work