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#11
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![]() Yes the $800 was for all new guides and valves and seats.
I would not sell them if i did the work on the heads. I bought an engine stand and lift yesterday to pull the engine. Was starting on that process yesterday and wanted to ask yall if its just the 6 bolts that hold the trans to the engine. Do i need to remove anything other than those 6 bolts and the motor mounts? I am working out of a 2 car garage so i cant pull engine and trans at the same time because of not having room for the lift to turn. As always yalls advice is greatly appreciated. ![]() Quote:
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#12
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![]() I would recommend that you unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel so it stays in the transmission. There are four nuts that hold it on. I also recommend that you put blocks under the front of the transmission so it doesn't drop. You also have to remove the bolt and bracket that holds the trans cooler lines to the block. After that remove the motor mount nuts on either side and the bell housing bolts. I think that's about it.
John
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John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator 1959 Convertible Thunderbird Registry #36223 jopizz@verizon.net 856-779-9695 http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm |
#13
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![]() thank you. I was missing that for sure. Better safe than sorry.
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1959 Thunderbird 352 Cruise-O-Matic Flamingo Pink. Thunderbird Registry #8442 Daily driver |
#14
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![]() Exhaust bolts are going to be fun.
I had to remove the fan and water pump to clear the radiator. Found it easier with the PS pump off and strapped over to the side as well. Wiggled the engine all day and never could break it loose from the transmission - finally had to pry it to get it started. ![]() Believe one of the starter bolts goes all the way though to the bell housing and it also holds the tranny dipstick tube. Starter must weigh 40 lbs - always fun taking it out. Gas pedal and kick down linkages - fuel line. Remove the inspection plate on the tranny to get to the flywheel bolts. I did as John described. Removed the 4 bolts from the torq converter and pulled the engine with the flywheel. You can see one of the studs on the torq converter poking through the flywheel in this pic - bolt removed. ![]() Eric |
#15
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![]() If it is not too late, Hit one of the bolts from the flex plate with some spray paint so it goes together the same way it came apart. 180° off is not a problem but 90° off is a problem as the torque converter drain plugs hit the flex plate. Might as well just put it back the way it was and have no problems.
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#16
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![]() Quote:
Hey there ! How ya making out ? I have to commend your resolve to stick with the original 352 powerplant. The truck 352 oil pan will more than likely be a differing design than the 59 Bird, including the oil pump pickup tube. Comparing the water pumps too if your truck 352 is alternator equipped. Both motors are from the age of non-detergent motor oil so I'd like to be there when you pop the intakes. Ha ! |
#17
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![]() Quote:
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1959 Thunderbird 352 Cruise-O-Matic Flamingo Pink. Thunderbird Registry #8442 Daily driver |
#18
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![]() So ya i bought the engine.... And i really just need to start listening to yall. Got the engine home an did a dry compression test on it and got about 40 to 50 psi on all but one cylinder and that one was about 10 psi. Then i opened the valve covers and it blows my mind how every inch of a motor can be caked in sludge. Im just gonna sell it i guess.
Should i keep the alternator that is on it.? I need to look up info on the swap or if its worth doing. I assume my generator is working. Is there a test i can do on it maybe. Anyways thanks for everyones help and advise. I did manage to get the engine pulled with no issues thanks to yall. ![]() Quote:
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1959 Thunderbird 352 Cruise-O-Matic Flamingo Pink. Thunderbird Registry #8442 Daily driver |
#19
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![]() I did start cleaning the engine bay. And it looks alot better.
I guess a question to ask is how much more, if at all, is the car worth having the original motor as opposed to a swap.
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1959 Thunderbird 352 Cruise-O-Matic Flamingo Pink. Thunderbird Registry #8442 Daily driver |
#20
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![]() Quote:
I never spend more than $200 for a 390 because I always assume they need an overhaul. We have members who bought overhauled engines, only to find out later on that the build wasn't what they thought. I don't leave that to chance. Good luck getting $600 out of an old tired engine. Take my advice and find a 390 to build. If you can't afford it right now, wait until you can. Don't get rid of anything until your build is complete. Ford engines do not have VIN numbers so an 'upgrade' is hard to detect without getting into casting numbers. - Dave
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My latest project: CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build. "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?" --Lee Iacocca |
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