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  #11  
Old 10-08-2017, 11:13 AM
Woobie Woobie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbird1044 View Post
Been there, done that. Since the engine is freshly rebuilt, it is really tight and hard to turn over. Now that I have the front end apart, I might make a second attempt to verify TDC.
Nyles
I'd recommend something soft like a thin skewer stick be used. Our 60 had a '59 block casting and EDC crank at nearly zero deck clearance; you could fit an index card under a straight edge placed across the cylinder bore. So I wouldn't want to drop in a screwdriver and start wrenching on the crank. JMO.
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  #12  
Old 10-08-2017, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnG View Post
"On a lighter car built for speed, I advance ignition timing much sooner than the same engine in an F-150 truck for example."

Dave, how are you accomplishing this? Advancing the at-idle timing, or the full advance timing? are you using lighter advance springs in the distributor to get to full advance quicker?
Yes John, there are a few ways to do this. Remember that 'initial timing' adds to distributor timing. Check out the site I made regarding distributor timing. CLICK HERE

Quote:
Originally Posted by Woobie View Post
I'd recommend something soft like a thin skewer stick be used... So I wouldn't want to drop in a screwdriver and start wrenching on the crank. JMO.
There is never a need to crank any engine while sticking things down the cylinder.
Put the timing pointer on TDC then remove #1 & #4 spark plugs. When #1 piston is up, #4 is down.

I like using a welding rod and a sharpie marker. The welding rod won't bend and it has a porous coating that marks very easily. Stick the rod down #1 spark plug hole and mark it then stick it down #4 and mark it. Measure between your marks to reveal the stroke. It's just that simple.
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  #13  
Old 10-09-2017, 03:23 AM
Woobie Woobie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
There is never a need to crank any engine while sticking things down the cylinder.
Put the timing pointer on TDC then remove #1 & #4 spark plugs. When #1 piston is up, #4 is down.

I like using a welding rod and a sharpie marker. The welding rod won't bend and it has a porous coating that marks very easily. Stick the rod down #1 spark plug hole and mark it then stick it down #4 and mark it. Measure between your marks to reveal the stroke. It's just that simple.
Then that's the way we'll do it
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  #14  
Old 10-10-2017, 10:27 PM
Tbird1044 Tbird1044 is offline
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Got the car all back together today and started it up to see if there was any change. The temperature outside was 84F, and I had the car in the garage and let it idle for about 1/2 hour. The temperature went to about the high side of the "M" on temp gauge. That doesn't bother me too much. Checked it with an infrared gun and it was about 200-205F. Turned on the AC and it went a little higher to the the "P" but was only on the first line of the "P". Again, the highest reading with a temp gun was about 205F. If I raised the engine above idle speed, the temperature started to drop. I think it is now in a reasonable range where I can run the car and be comfortable. I am going to add some water wetter to see if it helps at all in lowering the temperatures.
BTW, after doing all my checks with the engine, I now have the timing set at 10 degress BTDC. Seems to run well. At least I know what the timing really is. I tried to richen the carb up a bit at idle, but it seemed to be pretty good.
It seems in the past, I always checked the vacuum advance, and was convinced that the 4100 only had a "manifold" vacuum port. When I checked it today, it appeared that the port was a "ported" vacuum connection. I verified what the advance was with and without the vacuum advance, so I know it is working okay.
I don't have the electric fan with the alternator conversion, but I think I can live with the setup that I now have.
Time will tell.
Nyles
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  #15  
Old 10-10-2017, 11:54 PM
Woobie Woobie is offline
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Pleased that everything has worked out so far. And going on 157 miles with your new rebuild. Are these temps with the six-blade fan ?
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  #16  
Old 10-11-2017, 02:12 AM
Tbird1044 Tbird1044 is offline
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Yes, they are. I put a 6 blade flex fan on and changed the spacers to get it positioned properly in the shroud. It appears to pull more air at idle.
Nyles
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  #17  
Old 10-11-2017, 01:27 PM
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I'll have to publicly commend your perseverance at ticking all the boxes to get those temps down.
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  #18  
Old 10-11-2017, 06:29 PM
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Default Idle Jets

HI NYLES AFTER TIMING IS SET... IDLE JET INITIAL SETTING....quick set your ldle jets on WARM ENG.......with eng OFF gently turn both screws in to FULL CLOSED...now OPEN out 1 1/2 turns...start eng AND SET IDLE RPM...now turn screws INWARD til eng JUST STARTS TO STUMBLE...now.... from the stumble point..... OPEN...yes OPEN SCREWS 1/2 TURN..DOUBLE CHECK TIMING/Vac AND IDLE RPM.... this will put you in the best operating range almost every time...double check with vac guage if you have one....this will almost evry time give you the best vac reading..and eng performance..I can only suggest this from my experience on many types of single 4 bbl carb perf engines...of course...every one has their own best experience on this subject....CHEERS TERRY
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  #19  
Old 10-11-2017, 07:38 PM
Woobie Woobie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
I want to shed a few 'truths' on this subject.
Pick an engine... Let's say it's a 390 just for example. Ford put the 390 in heavy cars, trucks, marine, construction equipment, industrial generators, etc.
Dave

FYI

The 427 was the FE used in marine applications at 300 horsepower. A few owners have reported that a pair of 427 sideoilers were thrown into the mix too. Continuing with the Ford V-8, the Y-Block was used with side draft carburetors, the 430 and 431 Lincoln, a few 534 Seamasters some applications with twin turbos, and the 302 and 351 in hundreds of applications, most notably Mastercraft and Correct Craft among others. Of course all the hardware and bolt-ons for the 427 would fit the much cheaper and widely available 390 for a custom build or repower.
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  #20  
Old 10-11-2017, 09:09 PM
Tbird1044 Tbird1044 is offline
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That is pretty much what I do with the idle adjustment screws. I start with a balanced adjustment on both screws and then slowly lean out the mixture until I can tell a small decrease in engine RPM. I then typically open them about 1/2 turn to richen the mixture. On this car I might increase the this a small amount due to the temperature problems at idle. Figure a little richer mixture is better than running lean.
Nyles
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