Front brake drum hub removal

[Astrowing]

Is the hub pressed into the drum? If one is going to replace the front drum, the old hub needs to be transferred to the new drum. I don't see the procedure detailed in the Ford manual and I've never taken one apart.

[Guest]

Hey James,
Ok, you have the tire off. You see the brake drum and the center hub. Remove cotter pin. Remove hub nut. Now brake shoes may be tight against drum. There is a small hole in the back of dust shield, may still have rubber piece in it! Remove rubber piece. Insert flat head screwdriver and move adjustment. One way tightens the other way loosens! May have to GENTLY peck edge of drum to break it loose. DO HIT IT TO HARD IT MAY SHATTER! Remove drum to get to brakes!
Dave (simplyconnected) may have more to add, he has dealt with these more than I The picture below you can see the adjustment in the center at the bottom!
Richard D. Hord

Hey Dave, I borrowed a post from you
I use heat. In the 'old' days, I would smack the drum it with a big hammer. That distorted the drum.

A propane torch will work. Remember, your brakes are designed for elevated heat. Heat the drum between the studs and tap it with a hammer (between the studs) to loosten the rust-bond. The drum should not 'center' on the studs. In fact, the studs should not touch the drum because the drum is centered on the hub. - Dave

[Astrowing]

Thanks, Richard. So nothing is really holding the hub to the drum other than 50 years worth of rust?

[Guest]

Thanks, Richard. So nothing is really holding the hub to the drum other than 50 years worth of rust?

Or brake shoes, that are tight or cut into drum!
Richard D. Hord

[lawyercalif]

I may be wrong, but I think he already has the drum and hub assembly off the car and wants to know how to remove the drum from the hub so he can install a new drum to the old hub.

When I did my brakes I took the whole hub and drum assembly in intact. They were able to turn them without taking the hub off the drum, so I do not know how hard they are to get off.

[jopizz]

The last one I couldn't get apart I took to the service station up the street. He hit the studs with an air punch a few times and it dropped right out.

[Astrowing]

Yes, I was inquiring about separating the hub from the drum once it is removed from the car. I've taken drums front and rear off many cars over the years, but have never actually separated the hub from the drum. Thanks!

[Dream Weaver]

Hi all jumping in sort of late just wanted to let you all know how I got the drums off my 60. I removed the entire assembly and used a large "C" clamp to apply pressure to the hub on my bench then persuaded the hub out with a little heat and a hammer. I was a little nervous about warping the drum but I believe that this was avoided.

[Astrowing]

How did you use the C-clamp to get to the hub and how large is the C-clamp? I tried several of the suggested methods this weekend with no joy including a propane torch, PB blaster, and tapping on the drum between the studs. I didn't have a method to add pressure to help persuade the parts to part. This drum looks like it is "welded" to the hub, especially around the center hole.

[Astrowing]

According to the vintage Mustang Forum, the hubs are swagged onto the original drums so it takes a hydraulic press to get them apart. After they have been replaced, it is not a problem to get replacements apart according to this info.

[Dream Weaver]

It was a large 10" heavy clamp. Clamped the center to my bench and persuaded it with a hammer. After a bit it relented.

[Dream Weaver]

more info

How did you use the C-clamp to get to the hub and how large is the C-clamp? I tried several of the suggested methods this weekend with no joy including a propane torch, PB blaster, and tapping on the drum between the studs. I didn't have a method to add pressure to help persuade the parts to part. This drum looks like it is "welded" to the hub, especially around the center hole.

Sorry for the quick response earlier but supper was ready had to eat. All I did was take a length of heavy steel, long enough to span the center hub opening, then position the clamp so that I was applying pressure at the center (thus the large clamp). With the clamp tightened as tight as I could (without bending the break drum) i banged around the hub and on top of the clamp. Occasionally I would add a bit of pressure to the clamp. The first one I added some heat the second I did not. The center where it looks like it is welded is a press fit which I validated when I bolted the wheel back on the car. I hope this helps. If you are still having problems I could pull the wheel and repeat the process and take some photos which means I'll have to make my donation to the web site some what sooner than I had planed on in order to post them. But that will not be a problem. It may take me a while as I don't visit regularly.

[Astrowing]

Thanks, that helps.

[Astrowing]

Got my hubs separated today at a machine shop. He used a press and some heat from a torch to get them separated. He did not have to press out the lug bolts separately, but just pressed on the center of the hub itself. The new drum fits onto the hub easily. It also measures as close to 11 inches as I can measure. The old drums measure close to 11.25 inches, so they are way too big and out of tolerance. I expect a much better pedal and significantly less fade once I get them installed.

[Astrowing]

I just realized that my hubs are different. The dimensions seem to be all the same except the inner race on one of them is 1/8 inch further in on one of them. One does look like a Kelsey Hayes, but can't tell what the other is. What is original?

I have the adjustment almost as loose as possible to get the new drums installed vs very expanded with the old drums. Still having issues with brakes locking while trying to spin them so it needs more adjustment.