Coil Test Fine, NO SPARK @ PLUGS

[tattooboy37]

Thanks again John.
You described what I was thinking, I just wasn't sure of the way to say it correctly or how the check it. I will pull the brown wire and go directly from (I) to +coil and hopefully that's it. Gotta do it in the morning. Time to relax so I dont screw nothing up. I sure hope this works.
Why isn't the wire like that all the time? does it send full 12v indstead of the lower amount thru the resistor wire. maybe less abusive on coils? I guess only the starter needs the full 12v

[jopizz]

Since your car was converted to electronic ignition I'm wondering if anything was done with the resistance wire. Some conversions require that you remove it and go straight 12V from the ignition switch. Since your coil wire is red and not red/green obviously some modifications were made. That may account for the brown wire not working. If that turns out to be your problem I would trace the red coil wire back to the firewall and see what's going on.

John

[simplyconnected]

At the expense of sounding 'forward' I need to cut to the chase. I don't believe in 'throwing parts' at a problem because if you do, you will end up with a basket of good parts that you cannot use or return. I also believe in using sound troubleshooting practices to prove parts to be good or bad.

My schematics and parts books for a '63 Thunderbird shows it came with points and a condenser, although you did say yours was an 'electric ignition'. They all are electric.

"Electronic" spark is another story. I see that John has touched on what has possibly happened before I gathered all my pictures, etc. I also believe that someone has converted your ignition to another system. I'm going to stick my neck out and suggest it is a Ford Durasprark, but it could be another type. Without actually seeing it, I can't tell.


This is a typical Duraspark conversion.
One Ford 'convention' you need to know is this: If a wire shows two colors, like blue/red, the wire may be blue and the END will be red. Or, the wire may be blue with a red trace. You may see actual pictures on this site where this holds true.

Electronic components need full voltage that your battery does not have when the starter motor is laboring. By contrast, points use an extra wire is on the starter relay, to bypass the resistance wire from the Key Sw. By far, the Starter Motor draws more power than all other electrical draw combined. You can see the battery voltage drop when your headlights are on during a start.

The Duraspark system shows a ground wire going to the distributor, as you explained. It also needs full +12 volts to run the electronics. This conversion picture shows the pink wire is totally out of the circuit, and replaced with a solid copper conductor. If that is true, there is no need for the 'bypass' wire on your Starter Solenoid. - Dave

[simplyconnected]

If you have no Ignition Module, then you don't have a Duraspark system.

A more modern and widely accepted system is the Pertronix II electronic ignition. It has a red and black wire. Red goes to full voltage with the key on. and black goes to the coil (-) post.

Look at your coil. If it is 'stock', it will need the resistance wire. If it is a Pertronix 'Flame Thrower' it needs full voltage. - Dave

[tattooboy37]

If you have no Ignition Module, then you don't have a Duraspark system.

A more modern and widely accepted system is the Pertronix II electronic ignition. It has a red and black wire. Red goes to full voltage with the key on. and black goes to the coil (-) post.

Look at your coil. If it is 'stock', it will need the resistance wire. If it is a Pertronix 'Flame Thrower' it needs full voltage. - Dave

It has a Mallory system installed. It was put in by a 30 yr Ford Master Tech over 15 yrs ago and hasn't had a problem. Sorry I didn't clarify.
Seems like I may have fixed a bug this morning. I was checking all the wire colors to the key/ignition and afterward tried to start it and it fired over. Not sure what to think. All my tests could be worthless if its something w/ a wire that's loose or getting old.
I will see if I can get any consistency w/ test starts today and post later.
I did replace my old coil not too long back as well. Its made by Accel. Could it be that its not compatible w/ the ignition system? Seems odd its worked for the last few months w/ same wires hooked up as before
Thanks

[Yadkin]

The Pertronix coil can be used with the resistor wire. Constant 12v is recommended but not required.