rocker arm shaft assembly

[davidmij]

Steve, I did use gray.
As for the open valve train this was my first experience, and you are correct. Some oil did run out and pooled in the header wrap, it took a while to burn off!

I used gray on the valve covers too, and just barely cinch them down. They bend real easy so I use a good amount of sealer and very light on the bolts. Then let it dry good and long. So far so good.

Dave J

[simplyconnected]

I inserted 0.075" orifice restrictors in the oil galleries at each head. So the block gets full pressure and the heads get a reduced pressure.

"Gluing" the cork with rtv works also. But for these covers I prefer to not glue to make inspection and adjustment, and of course reuse of the gaskets, a lot easier.

The OE sheet metal covers can't be torqued to OE spec without distorting them. I straighten the covers on the bench over a wood block with a soft hammer. The torque to the spreader bars fully deflecting. Its probably less than half of the OE spec. Edelbrock designed these composite gaskets to seal with reduced pressure.

...I used gray on the valve covers too, and just barely cinch them down. They bend real easy so I use a good amount of sealer and very light on the bolts...

You guys should clean the bolts, 'oil free' and use blue Loctite on the threads. There is no need to drive them all the way down, my Y-blocks have two nuts at the very top of each valve cover dome. Being solid lifter, they need adjustment periodically. I never had a leak issue and I don't allow the nuts to crush the covers. I even had them chromed...



Notice, there are NO bolts around the flange at all. I use cork Fel-Pro gaskets with Permatex black. So far, I have pulled the covers off three times using the same gaskets:

[Yadkin]

Your valve covers on the Y block are a nice design, and completely different than the FE covers. The FEs are notorious for leaks from the valve covers. Easy enough to seal, but cork by itself won't do it.

[GTE427]

Dave,
In post #2, the link for the Rocker Arm Service did not work. Can your site be viewed?

[simplyconnected]

Dave,
In post #2, the link for the Rocker Arm Service did not work. Can your site be viewed?

Yes Ken, try the link now. You can also access it from my signature line.
For now, HERE'S THE LINK.

[GTE427]

Thanks Dave. The shaft looks like a sludge trap waiting to be cleaned. Nice tutorial.

[Bob C13]

Dave, I have the original 352 engine in my 59 Bird. Can you bore a 352 to a 390 and then put aluminum heads on? As well as aluminum intake and exhaust or shorts. I have heard some say sell the 352 an find a 390. The 352 needs a fuel pump spark plugs and plug wires. The owner before me said it has 250.000 miles on it.But will run as a daily drive. I payed $800.00 for it. I am still working on the rust. The engine is next. I am working slow because I am old like my bird. 76 this past nov. 13th. It should live longer than me when I am done. Most everything is off it. Parts waiting to be cleaned. I live in Florida if you would like to help. HA HA. I am up late time to post. Thanks for your time. Bob 13

[simplyconnected]

Happy Birthday, Bob. I'm not trottin' too far behind you in age.
I know it's all about 'saving money' (which is really important in my book). But, weighing all the pro's and con's, in my humble opinion, it's still worth it and you will save money by rebuilding an old tired 390. They are around and at decent prices. From the outside, FE blocks are identical. Driving a 390 will put a smile on your face and bring back the excitement of driving.

Either engine will need an overhaul including a crankshaft balance because new pistons will be larger and heavier. Other updates need to be done as well because gasoline has been replaced by gasohol and nearly all the ZDDP is removed from modern oils.

The difference in bore is fifty thousandths but there are other important differences. The stroke on a 390 is longer by two-hundred-eighty-four thousandths. The cam in a 390 uses a front thrust plate where the 352 uses a 'button' setup. So what? More parts (cams, true roller timing sets, aluminum heads, etc.) are available and cheaper for the 390 because Ford put that engine in just about everything including cars, trucks, marine, construction equipment, etc. So, vendors quit stocking parts for the rarer 352 in favor of the more popular 390.

If you had a 430 I would suggest the same advice because 430 parts are made of unobtanium.

Heads are the heart of every engine. Never cut overhaul-corners on heads. Yours are made of cast iron. They need all mating surfaces 'skinned,' guides refurbished, exhaust valve seats changed, valves replaced and then a valve job. What you end up with is an expensive cast iron head that retained useless 'umbrella seals' and really shows no improvement in performance but it will run on modern gasohol. To sell those newly machined heads will only fetch about $250.

Aluminum heads transfer heat 4X faster than cast iron. New Edelbrock heads already come with hardened seats, new stainless valves that are larger (1.66" exhaust and 2.09" intake), new springs, bronze valve guides and viton seals. This is the good stuff and they bolt right on. I wait and buy them on sale when Autorama comes to Detroit in Feb. Summit Racing has a booth and they offer 10% off at the car show. How much? $1,480/pair before any discounts. An old tired set of aluminum heads will fetch a grand IF you can find any. There are more advantages. - Dave

[Bob C13]

Thank you so much Dave. I can see you know your stuff. When I finish with the body I will pull the engine. I have a COM Trany. Should I just beef it up to the now time or look for a C-6 and rebuld it. ? I forgot to ask this on my first post. Bob C13

[simplyconnected]

...I have a COM Trany. Should I just beef it up to the now time or look for a C-6 and rebuld it. ?

The C6 required more HP to run but it can be retrofit with a lower first and second gear (the sun gear from an E4OD) which gives about 20% lower first and 15% lower second gears.

Otherwise, your Cruise-O-Matic will work just fine behind a 390. Really, the choice is yours depending on what kind of service you will use your Thunderbird for. Unless you are hauling or pulling trailers, I would freshen the COM as it is happy in your T-Bird.

"Engine overhaul" means different things to different people. I look at modern engines and ask, 'why do they go 250,000 miles on gasohol and modern oil? Because they were engineered to use modern components and modern fluids. If you build to 1960 standards (OEM) then you can expect 80-100,000 miles tops. If you use Moly rings, hypereutectic alloy pistons, true roller timing chain, quality bearings, aluminum heads and intake, brass core plugs and a roller cam (like modern engines use) THEN you can expect the same longevity as modern daily drivers. I also restrict my compression ratio to 9.2:1 to 9.5:1 so I can use 'regular' pump gasohol.

Again, depending on how much money you want to spend determines how long your engine will last and at what performance. I never build my classic engines to OEM spec's because we have MUCH better stuff now. - Dave

[Bob C13]

Thanks again Dave, You are helping me a lot. The rebuild will be as you said. I will be pulling a small camping trailer at times.I would like to do rout 66 with my wife before I part from this world.If I can find a 390 with a c-6 that would be good. I am putting a trailer hitch on after I fix the rust. I will make it stronger. I have a welder. Have a very Marry Christmas & New year. PS.
I will be putting dic brakes on the front.

[simplyconnected]

...I will be pulling a small camping trailer at times.I would like to do rout 66 with my wife before I part from this world.If I can find a 390 with a c-6 that would be good. I am putting a trailer hitch on after I fix the rust. I will make it stronger. I have a welder. Have a very Marry Christmas & New year.
PS. I will be putting dic brakes on the front.

Merry Christmas to you and your family, Bob.
I don't know how much work YOU will be doing on your car but I always encourage our members to do as much as possible (for a host of reasons).
Front Power Disc Brakes are the single most important improvement you can give your Squarebird. In fact, my skin crawls just thinking of the OEM shoe brakes that are inadequate, without pulling anything. I installed front disc brakes on our '59 Galaxie. Now, it stops just like a modern car.

I have questions. Did your Squarebird come with a power booster on the firewall? This determines which parts to buy.
You may not need your welder (although it's great to have on hand) because all the parts you will use bolt right in. You will need to cut, bend and flare brake line. (After the first two flares you will be a pro. I use the old lines for practice.) I think you can plumb the whole car in one day at a leisurely pace. Have you got inverted flare tools? If not, I can loan you mine.

How will you pull your engine? Have you got a cherry picker and four jack stands?

I buy tired 390 engines WITH the C6, together. I prefer mid '70's engines out of a F100 truck but the important thing is to get a C6 that bolts to a FE. C6 transmissions have the bell housing and case as one casting. They were made in many configurations for different engines. You need one for an FE. I get the engine and trans together because all the bolts and small parts are there. I may not use the heads or intake manifold but that's ok. I fully expect some exhaust manifold bolts will be twisted off in the heads. Since I use new heads anyway, no sense in spending more money in machining costs on old cast iron heads. - Dave

[Bob C13]

Hi Dave, That was fast. Money can slow you down. When I sell my 1987 Dodge P.U. slant 6 235 eng. floor shift. 3 speed plus O.D. and 2006 Yamaha road star trigg. Plus 5 lots of land. I will have more money to work with. It will make the wife happy also. That is always a good thing. As for the brake power booster. It is under the brake pedal. I have a single master cylinder. Also factory air. So If I remember wright I will need a bracket to put a # 8 power booster and duel master cylinder. Plus as you said new brake lines. Calipers to the rear. & rear drum brake adjusters. I have 14 in rims so I may have to address that. Oh, thank you for the loan of your flare tool. If I don't have one by then that would be great.
I have nothing to pull the engine as of now. When the time comes to pull it I will have to do as you said to make it safe. Thank you for letting me know that. The engine, Tired 390 with C-6 70's F-100 truck. Sounds great. Who said you can't tach an old dog new tricks. I hope to have some help when it comes to pulling the engine. I can get it loose for the time being. Bob C 13

[simplyconnected]

Bob, you may prioritize by doing a little at a time. I do not advocate for rear disc brakes because rear brakes only stop about 25% of the load. My wife's Ford Escape came with rear drum brakes. If they can lock up the tires (and they can) there isn't much more that can be expected. Also, your emergency brake doesn't need to change from stock.

There are two major parts you need:
Booster/master combination - ABS Power Brake #9787 (on page 95) $350.
Spindle brackets to hold calipers - Scarebirds #GXY $196.

Once you receive these parts you will see what is missing. I don't mean to be ambiguous but every time I buy this stuff it come with different hardware. In addition you will need 9/16" bolts and washers, brake hoses, cunifer brake line, IFF nuts, a tee for your brake light switch and a combination proportioning valve. You will also need two 11" Mustang rotors, calipers and pads (for a S-10 or S-15). I don't think I'm forgetting anything but let's see what comes in the packages. - Dave

[Bob C13]

I believe I posted incorrectly about my rear brakes. I will keep my rear drum brakes. I was thinking that there was a rear drum automatic adjuster. On the front dic brakes the calipers should be on the back side for the tires to fit. Correct me if I am wrong. Oh thank you for the links this will help when I get ready to order. You can be ambiguous all you want when it brings everything together. And thank you for the extra Information. Bob C 13