Here are the brackets curing in the sun.
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NYsquarebird58's Brake System Overhaul and Disc Brake Conversion
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Went ahead and painted the hockey stick. Someday that engine compartment will get painted, but at least for now everything brake related will be nice and clean. I even got a new set of stainless steel clevis pins. I'll be sure to lube all the joints before I put everything back together.
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Extending the booster out between the booster and the bracket rather than between the booster and the firewall seems to be a bonus. No need to worry with also extending the pedal bracket to match. That all stays stock and your pedal height is not changed. (one less thing to worry with) and it's a real pain to get that pedal bolt in and out unless you just like standing on your head.
Both the factory kit and the bracket I made needed to extend the stock pedal bracket (extended out and up on the factory kit).
Factory kit
My stuff
(Both designed to go between the booster bracket and firewall)
EricLast edited by DKheld; September 10, 2012, 09:20 AM.Comment
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I do not understand why you would need to cut and weld the Jeep bracket. Mine works fine as is in mockup.Comment
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Last week I mocked everything up using the jeep bracket. I felt that it pushed the whole setup out too far. The master cylinder was very close to the wheel well and the threaded rod coming out of the booster was to short to reach the brake pedal linkage. it could have definitely worked if I used a rod extension but it just seemed to hang out there too far for my liking.Comment
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Now I understand. Since my car has A/ C it needed to come out more to clear the plenum. Your design is much better for a non A/C car.
Last week I mocked everything up using the jeep bracket. I felt that it pushed the whole setup out too far. The master cylinder was very close to the wheel well and the threaded rod coming out of the booster was to short to reach the brake pedal linkage. it could have definitely worked if I used a rod extension but it just seemed to hang out there too far for my liking.Comment
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A little more progress today; I managed to get the booster and master cylinder all mounted up. Tomorrow I’ll bleed the master cylinder, mount the proportioning valve and start plumbing some hard lines.
I was sure to lubricate all the clevis pins with some moly paste.
Here’s the clevis rod. I placed it in a vice and polished it with some sandpaper. After some lubrication, the clevis moves very easy.
Here’s trailer bracket mounted between the booster and the Ford booster bracket.
Time to adjust the jam nut on the end of the booster. I used some play dough on the end of the master cylinder’s push rod so that I can see the impression the jam nut leaves once the booster and master cylinder are sandwiched together..
Notice the impression the jam nut left on the play dough. I just kept on backing that jam nut out until there was only a very thin skin of play dough between the jam nut and the master cylinder’s push rod.
I used a 6mm socket and a 7mm wrench to adjust the jam nut. (It also helped that I had my girlfriend hold the pedal down so that the jam nut was out in the open.)
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I hear ya'. I would have started a month sooner if it wasn't so humid or rainy around here. I've been lucky that the past two weekends have been just perfect.Comment
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I didn’t get anywhere near as far along as I had hoped today, but I did manage to get the proportioning valve mounted and plumbed to the master cylinder,
I was originally going to mount the proportioning valve underneath the master cylinder, but I didn’t like how close it was to the exhaust manifold, so I decided on the inner fender just below the washer bag.
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This setup is a huge, WOW! I love the space you maintained under the M/C for changing spark plugs. The bends look very professional and square. The Brake Switch is easy to change if necessary. This power brake system is very easy to maintain. Wait until you get the whole car plumbed. I wish I could be there to see your reaction the first time you step on that brake pedal.
Excellent job so far. - DaveMember, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
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Oh yeah - super nice.
You probably have this all planned out but just noticed.......
The angle connector in your existing vac line is also a check valve. You now have a check valve in the new booster so don't think you'll need 2 - probably won't hurt having 2 though. (someone check me on that )
You will need a "T" connector to hook up the reserve tank behind the drivers side rear splash shield to your new booster since the built in "T" connector on the old booster went away. May be time to take out the reserve tank and check it for leaks (or better still - save that for a winter day).
Hope you don't mind me pointing things out - not trying to say you did anything wrong or junk like that - just trying to save you some time (and another trip to the parts store!).
I remember when I finally got mine to that stage - what a relief.
Looks really really good (hate to admit it but 10X better than mine). Those brackets you made are great.
EricComment
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Oh yeah - super nice.
You probably have this all planned out but just noticed.......
The angle connector in your existing vac line is also a check valve. You now have a check valve in the new booster so don't think you'll need 2 - probably won't hurt having 2 though. (someone check me on that )
You will need a "T" connector to hook up the reserve tank behind the drivers side rear splash shield to your new booster since the built in "T" connector on the old booster went away. May be time to take out the reserve tank and check it for leaks (or better still - save that for a winter day).
Hope you don't mind me pointing things out - not trying to say you did anything wrong or junk like that - just trying to save you some time (and another trip to the parts store!).
I remember when I finally got mine to that stage - what a relief.
Looks really really good (hate to admit it but 10X better than mine). Those brackets you made are great.
Eric
Thanks!Comment
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You've got the hard vacuum line coming out of the manifold - through the old right angle check valve - then it went to the "T" on top of the old booster. The line off the other side of the booster continued on to the reserve tank in the inner fender. You access the reserve tank by taking out the splash shield from inside the drivers side wheel well.
You "can" leave the reserve tank out but I don't think I would. It allows 2-3 additional power assisted stops should the engine quit and you are still rolling. After that it would just be like having non power assisted brakes - still work but more pedal pressure needed - a lot more.
Eric
this post has a pic of the tank but at the moment I can't find one with the tank installed location. (page1)
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