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Old 05-20-2018, 10:51 AM
Deanj Deanj is offline
Join Date: Nov 26 2015
Posts: 484
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Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
Only the passenger's side (the RH side) is flat because the heat riser valve bolts directly to it. The other side of the heat riser is domed to accept an exhaust pipe flange that may be 'off' by a lot.

The heat riser (or substitute 'blank' bypass) valve is important. Without it, there will be a big gap and a mismatch of fittings.

If your machine shop milled your exhaust manifold 'flat', that is all you need. The rest of the parts will compensate for small changes. Is your leak between the manifold and head? - Dave
No Dave, the leak is between the manifold and exhaust pipe. That actually made the shop feel better when this leaked the first time, knowing it wasn't the problem between the manifold and head.

This starts out small to where you think: "I never noticed that this sounds a little like an old 283." Then within about 15 miles it's very loud.

Is the expansion and contraction causing the gasket to fail because the surfaces aren't flat? That seems to suggest the connection gets loose? Whatever, I'm bugged because I've never had an exhaust with this problem. I had exhaust pipes pull apart from pressure, and exhaust that leaked passed super tightened clamps, all of which were corrected with a second or different clamp.

Good thing it's a warranty issue, but you start waiting for it to return.

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Old 05-23-2018, 01:42 PM
Deanj Deanj is offline
Join Date: Nov 26 2015
Posts: 484
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Exhaust leak at the left exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe fixed.

The problem was a warped exhaust pipe flange that the shop ground flat, and then installed a beefier gasket with a raised ID lip. I'm disappointed that gaskets are so "delicate".

Okay, so now it doesn't sound like a diesel anymore. It does have a great deep throaty sound from the tail pipes. I hope this fix lasts.

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