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Valve stem seals replacement?

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  • Rock&Roll Firebird
    Experienced
    • Jun 20 2012
    • 327

    #16
    Originally posted by Tbird1044
    My personal preference is viton or silicon. At these prices, I don't think cost is an issue.
    Here is an article I found that has some good explanations of the different seals: http://www.enginebuildermag.com/1998...s-and-designs/

    Nyles
    Very good resource - makes things much clearer, thank you Nyles.

    Comment

    • simplyconnected
      Administrator
      • May 26 2009
      • 8787

      #17
      I clean my parts with diesel fuel. It is cheap and works better on hot days, without the danger of exploding fumes. Diesel fuel traces can lubricate if mixed with engine oil. Sometimes I use diesel fuel with Scotchbrite or sandpaper, to really get down to bare metal.

      Are there better solvents? Yes, but they all have drawbacks. That is only my personal preference. To remove oil just before applying gasket sealer, I use lacquer thinner on a clean rag. Silicone will not stick to oil or water but it sticks very well to clean, dry surfaces. - Dave
      Member, Sons of the American Revolution

      CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

      "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
      --Lee Iacocca

      From: Royal Oak, Michigan

      Comment

      • Rock&Roll Firebird
        Experienced
        • Jun 20 2012
        • 327

        #18
        Will this piece of tool work for the job? That is the most affordable one I can gat locally - others cost way too much...
        Attached Files

        Comment

        • simplyconnected
          Administrator
          • May 26 2009
          • 8787

          #19
          Good quality automotive tools are expensive because they must perform safely. Valve springs take hundreds of pounds (90.7kg) to compress. If the tool cuts loose, you could hurt yourself and you will have tiny parts flying all over, never to be found again. Be careful.

          I have never seen or used this tool you show. It looks skinny for the job you have but it might work. I don't know. I would rather you show a tool I've used in the past.

          The tool that 'Eric the Car Guy' used is really expensive because it also works fast. Time is money.

          If I were you, I think I would look for the specifications for that valve spring compressor. It might be light-duty for 2L engines and below. FE springs are a bit more serious business. - Dave
          Member, Sons of the American Revolution

          CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

          "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
          --Lee Iacocca

          From: Royal Oak, Michigan

          Comment

          • Rock&Roll Firebird
            Experienced
            • Jun 20 2012
            • 327

            #20
            Thank you for your view on tools Dave. I finally found the needed tool on a German e-bay for a reasonable cost.
            Attached Files

            Comment

            • simplyconnected
              Administrator
              • May 26 2009
              • 8787

              #21
              When you compress a spring and expose the split tapered keepers, use a small magnet (like a pencil magnet) to take them out. Try to keep your fingers out of the tool.

              Before putting the split keepers back in, put grease around the valve groove. The grease will help the keepers stay in place until you relax the spring compressor. - Dave
              Member, Sons of the American Revolution

              CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

              "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
              --Lee Iacocca

              From: Royal Oak, Michigan

              Comment

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