1958 Engine Paint?

[JohnG]

hi
Me again...still planning my engine rebuild.

I am trying to track down a source for "Ford Light Blue" engine paint which would be correct for the 1958 352 motor. As the cylinder heads are included in what is painted, it has to be able to withstand a goodly amount of heat.

I have tried Bill Hirsch in NJ but he sent me a "Medium Blue" which is way too dark. This was disappointing as I get the impression his paint is very good quality and thus very heat resistant.

I know that PlasiKote makes engine paint (good to 500 degrees F) but dont know if any of it is an appropriate light blue for the '58.

Any information appreciated! This is the kind of thing you want to do once and do right!!

John

[JohnG]

RE: 1958 Engine Paint?

Jack tells me that NAPA has a 500 degreee Light Blue that does the job.

[Alexander]

RE: 1958 Engine Paint?

Parts of the cylinder head on the FE engines reach temperatures of exhaust manifold. I find even with my black 1959 and 1960 engines, the black exhaust manifold paint needs to touched up occaisionally, because it just burns off.

I would like to see if your blue paint does not discolor in this area. Please report your results.

Alexander
1959 Hardtop
1960 Golde Top

[Guest]

RE: 1958 Engine Paint?

On my (now gone) 1957 T-bird, I used some of Eastwood's exhaust manifold paint that is made from powdered stainless steel. It goes on silvery when applied, but dries to a gray, fresh cast iron looking color once it gets hot and cures. Had it for 6 years and it never chipped or discolored. Still The same cast iron hue when I sold it and then bought my (still in restoration) '58 Squarebird.

[Guest]

RE: 1958 Engine Paint?

If you plan to spray with a gun, go to any automotive paint store and take a color sample for a match. Use an acrylic enamel with hardner and it will hold up real well.

If you want to stick with spray cans, send a color sample to someone like Tower Paints (they advertise in Old Cars Weekly) and they can match any color and put it in spray cans for about $20 a can.

Hope this helps some,
Tom

[tmjsong1aolcom]

RE: 1958 Engine Paint?

I had a batch of the color formulated from an intake manifold. I think it turned out a bit darker than the original, but looked fine once applied.

The heads that attach to the exhaust manifolds did blacken when the cam was broken in. Not very happy with the temp range as the heads should not have turned dark brown.

Not sure if we can retrieve the formula but would be willing to try. As for the exact formulation would suggest something in the 2000 degree or above range. Not original but at least it won't change color.

Fuz
58's&64's
Sun Prairie, Wi.

[Meridious]

I am about to repaint my 352 (being rebuilt) and I wanted to throw my 2-cents in. I've been working on antique vehicles all my life, started with my father, who was Pres of Dixieland Hot Rodders years ago....

On one of my vehicles, on a whim (At the behest of a friend of mine) I went to a department store and bought the cheapest primer and paint there. It was like...88 cents a can.

I painted the block, the heads, intake manifold, and Valve Covers of a 350 Pontiac for one of my Firebirds.

I drove that car for 4 years. The paint never budged.

After that, I painted several Chryslers, slant-6's and various V-8s using K-Mart and Wal-Mart paint and primer. Never the exhaust manifolds, mind you...just the engine, heads, intake, and valve covers.

I NEVER had any peeling, any bubbling, or any problems.

Needless to say, I have been using the cheaper paints ever since.

The same rules apply....get the old paint off if possible, get it clean as you can get, and prime first.

Some of you may not believe this, and I understand. We've always been told to buy engine-paint, high-heat paint, etc etc.

For 20 years I have been painting various parts of engines, ranging from whole engines to just the intake and valve covers for a touch-up...and I've been doing it with REGULAR spray paint, sometimes less than a dollar a can...and I've never seen any of them peel or crack or bubble or lose their color.

When I paint this engine, I will take photos and post them. I guarantee you I will use el-cheapo paint and primer, and a year from now (I'd bet 4-5 years from now) it will be just as good as day-one.

[bcomo]

Meridious:

I will be painting my engine soon. What do you suggest as a primer? Is that a normal (non heat resistant) primer, as well?

Thanks

[Meridious]

Meridious:

I will be painting my engine soon. What do you suggest as a primer? Is that a normal (non heat resistant) primer, as well?

Thanks

I use a normal primer, always the same brand as the actual paint. While all 'spray-can' primers claim or are supposed to be good for any paint, I have seen various reactions from the paint turning red to a chemical bubbling when using one brand of primer and another brand of paint.

I use normal spray-can paint.

I treat the block/preparation-preparation as I would any surface...making sure there is no foreign substance left, then I prime and paint.

Again, I know it sounds odd, but I've NEVER had an instance where normal spray-enamel didn't hold its own just as good as any expensive "high-heat" spray enamel...just don't use it on headers or the actual exhaust manifolds.I also seal off the entire spark-plug recess as well as the threads and do not paint them.