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'66 OEM relays
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'66 OEM relays
2016 FORD F150 XLT 3.5 EB SPORT 302a - 2012 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2012 LEGEND DELUXE V-NOSE - 2008 KAWASAKI ZZR600 - 2008 FORD FOCUS SE - 2007 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2002 ARTIC CAT 500 - 1990 JOHN DEERE 265 - 1966 FORD THUNDERBIRD HARDTOP TOWNTags: None -
Check here:
At the bottom are the Emergency Warning Relays.
JohnJohn Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator
Thunderbird Registry #36223
jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695
https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm -
My relays don't look like that, 1 is 4 wire the other is 3 that diagram looks like two 4 wire ("5pin") relays
These are my relays below the colours are: 4 wire ( white-red, blue, white-blue, green-white ) 3 wire ( white-red, blue, orange )
This is what I'm attempting to duplicate http://www.tbirdforum.com/forums/att...y-solution.pdf
3 wire relay harness built and temporaily grounded to test:
started the 4 wire harness before my daughter woke up from her nap:
white-red will go to "30" blue goes to "86" black is "85"
Last edited by Cwcb08; October 14, 2016, 12:38 AM.2016 FORD F150 XLT 3.5 EB SPORT 302a - 2012 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2012 LEGEND DELUXE V-NOSE - 2008 KAWASAKI ZZR600 - 2008 FORD FOCUS SE - 2007 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2002 ARTIC CAT 500 - 1990 JOHN DEERE 265 - 1966 FORD THUNDERBIRD HARDTOP TOWNComment
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ya know..., typing all that and proof reading and taking photos, im not sure it matters what colour wire goes from 87a on each relay terminal to green-white/white-blue on the plug does it? they both get power at the same time and will continue to do so when "30" receives power after my mod2016 FORD F150 XLT 3.5 EB SPORT 302a - 2012 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2012 LEGEND DELUXE V-NOSE - 2008 KAWASAKI ZZR600 - 2008 FORD FOCUS SE - 2007 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2002 ARTIC CAT 500 - 1990 JOHN DEERE 265 - 1966 FORD THUNDERBIRD HARDTOP TOWNComment
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I'm editing this post to conform with Cody's actual findings as he disassembled his OEM relays...
I'm happy you are using standard modern relays with plug-in sockets. They are only a few bucks per each set.
In your case, you need two normally open contacts, so two single pole aftermarket relays must be used to replace one OEM 4-wire relay and one more single pole aftermarket to replace the 3-wire OEM relay. That makes three new relays. Connect both (30) together to make a common. Then, use each 87 to connect to 694 and 363 respectively.
Of course you will need a good ground for your coil wires (85). Because these relays draw so little current, I would not use that funky sheet metal. Modern cars run a separate ground wire from the battery and so do I. Then, I connect it to everything along the way, clear to the tail light housings. You may find your fuel gauge will be more accurate, too.
Before leaping out the plane, I want you to prove your new relays work. Wire the new sockets/relays per my drawing. Without power to your new relay coils, see if the commons are isolated from the NC contacts, then ADD +12 power and see if commons and contacts all have the same continuity.
I never solder (and neither do OEMs). Instead, I use name brand (T&B, Buchannan, Ideal, Sta-Kon, Panduit, etc.) compression lugs (crimp connectors). For example, I get the yellow (#10AWG) size and cut the fork off. Then I put all the copper wires in the same barrel and crimp it HARD for the absolute best connection possible. If it needs black electrical tape for insulation, ok. If I only have two wires, I use the blue lugs. Let me know what you found. - DaveLast edited by simplyconnected; October 14, 2016, 11:06 AM.Member, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
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like i said this diagram is not accurate to what is in my car
i have one of these and the other is the 4 wire we are talking about
I never solder (and neither do OEMs). Instead, I use name brand (T&B, Buchannon, Ideal, Sta-Kon, Panduit, etc.) compression lugs (crimp connectors). For example, I get the yellow (#10AWG) size and cut the fork off. Then I put all the copper wires in the same barrel and crimp it HARD for the absolute best connection possible. If it needs black electrical tape for insulation, ok. If I only have two wires, I use the blue lugs. Let me know what you found. - Dave
the way i was looking at the relay i thought brown would be "30" because it was the biggest wire on the old one and appeared to always be hot in the car at the other end of the stock connectorLast edited by Cwcb08; October 14, 2016, 09:13 AM.2016 FORD F150 XLT 3.5 EB SPORT 302a - 2012 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2012 LEGEND DELUXE V-NOSE - 2008 KAWASAKI ZZR600 - 2008 FORD FOCUS SE - 2007 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2002 ARTIC CAT 500 - 1990 JOHN DEERE 265 - 1966 FORD THUNDERBIRD HARDTOP TOWNComment
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...so you would do what is shown in the top photo but cut off the right hand side at the insulation and then tape the end?
the way i was looking at the relay i thought brown would be "30" because it was the biggest wire on the old one and appeared to always be hot in the car at the other end of the stock connector
Your original relays are trash, right? Scratch the side and top so you know the orientation. Take the can apart and show us some pictures. That will tell for sure, what's what inside. I always go by the connectors because colors mean nothing when vendors offer relays and harnesses.
You may be able to ring the coil with your meter because no parts move inside. I believe the three-wire relay simply has one less contact. - DaveMember, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
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This 3-pin relay's contact is NORMALLY OPEN, not closed! The pictures are excellent. Let's see the 4-pin relay...Member, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
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Yes, these are the 4-pin relays. Again, excellent pictures.
I edited my post to conform with your findings. If I made a mistake, please let me know.
Rather than using Ford diagram colors and numbers, in this case I'd rather reference your original connectors and pig tails that came from your OEM relays.
Opening the relays told the whole story. I cannot thank you enough because the Ford diagrams are totally different. I know there were changes but the diagrams are ridiculous. - DaveMember, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
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2016 FORD F150 XLT 3.5 EB SPORT 302a - 2012 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2012 LEGEND DELUXE V-NOSE - 2008 KAWASAKI ZZR600 - 2008 FORD FOCUS SE - 2007 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2002 ARTIC CAT 500 - 1990 JOHN DEERE 265 - 1966 FORD THUNDERBIRD HARDTOP TOWNComment
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So next hurdle, the two relays control the front flashers (both sides), with one or the other removed the fronts don't work.
the 3 pin relay controls the rear flashers if I turn the flashers on then plug the relay into the socket everything works!, however if I turn them off and back on it doesn't work
I wonder if they are drawing to much juice, the upside I now know the ammeter works it jumps 1/4" left each flash when front and backs are goingLast edited by Cwcb08; October 14, 2016, 04:00 PM.2016 FORD F150 XLT 3.5 EB SPORT 302a - 2012 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2012 LEGEND DELUXE V-NOSE - 2008 KAWASAKI ZZR600 - 2008 FORD FOCUS SE - 2007 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2002 ARTIC CAT 500 - 1990 JOHN DEERE 265 - 1966 FORD THUNDERBIRD HARDTOP TOWNComment
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ok another update, after speaking with simplyconnected yesterday he helped me sort this out, i now have functioning 4ways! my wiring and relays were correct, the problem was the " relays assy turn signal indicator " some PO (previous owner) swapped in a bosch 5pin relay however the oem relay is normally closed, they had it normally open, a few pokes with my multi meter i had it repined and all lights work correctly!
and in the spirit of oem relays, i had to change out the " low fuel level relay " to make the light go out, so here it is disassembled as well:
and this is the "interior light relay" i replaced this one so i have now have guage lights again:
Last edited by Cwcb08; October 16, 2016, 08:12 AM.2016 FORD F150 XLT 3.5 EB SPORT 302a - 2012 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2012 LEGEND DELUXE V-NOSE - 2008 KAWASAKI ZZR600 - 2008 FORD FOCUS SE - 2007 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2002 ARTIC CAT 500 - 1990 JOHN DEERE 265 - 1966 FORD THUNDERBIRD HARDTOP TOWNComment
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Alright another question, I solve one thing another comes up, next I need to get the blower fan working (then maybe try and rebuild the window motors all the things I need for a safety certificate here in Ontario)
Is this where the heater resistor was? Some PO put a Bosch relay here ( colours are red, red-black, black-white, and then the green and brown that look to be grounded to the firewall)
I checked continuity at the switch and I get 0 and a reading when I flip it so I know at least that works sofar2016 FORD F150 XLT 3.5 EB SPORT 302a - 2012 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2012 LEGEND DELUXE V-NOSE - 2008 KAWASAKI ZZR600 - 2008 FORD FOCUS SE - 2007 KAWASAKI ZX-6R - 2002 ARTIC CAT 500 - 1990 JOHN DEERE 265 - 1966 FORD THUNDERBIRD HARDTOP TOWNComment
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