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  #11  
Old 03-13-2017, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RetiredBMC View Post
Very true....unfortunately my pride won't let me ask for help until I've tried everything I think I know....lol.
Get those thoughts behind you, quickly. This international site is founded on friends who are here for guys just like you, so we can HELP with your problems.

Please allow us to work on your issues together. All of us started out knowing nothing. I've had great help from the engineers who designed your car at Ford because they were eager to share their career passion. We want to see your car on the road.

BTW, your problems have been shared in the past so, you're not alone. Feel free to ask because all questions are important, not only to you but to others who might have the same problems. - Dave
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  #12  
Old 03-13-2017, 05:30 PM
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Haven't found it yet........however, I did find 3 wires....one white that runs with 2 red wires all taped up that run along the top of the block behind the valve covers (white connects to top of oil filter unit) red that goes the top of the engine block (sending unit?) and the red that goes to the + terminal on the ignition coil....all 3 of these wires had "breaks" in the insulation and some points of the wire were melted from the engine heat and the copper wire inside was exposed.....these wires lead straight back to the firewall, drivers side. There were also 2 green wires, those go to the master cylinder...those I know are for the break lights...replaced that sending unit already :-). I'm cutting those out and splicing new wires in.....hopefully, that was the source of my troubles???? wish me luck.....or....tell me if I'm screwing up...lol. I seriously owe you guys a cold one for all your help....I really do appreciate you patience and wisdome here
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  #13  
Old 03-13-2017, 06:37 PM
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The white/red wire goes to your oil sender, the red/white goes to your temp sender. Those wires are normally not hot when the key is turned off so I don't think that is the cause of your issue; however the brake light switch wires could cause a problem if they were shorted to your coil wire. I agree that you should repair any bare wires and see if that fixes your problem.

John
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  #14  
Old 03-13-2017, 06:46 PM
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Follow the wires on your starter solenoid. One is yellow, another is red/blue. They should be in the same firewall plug as your temp and oil sensor wires.

The plug needs to be disconnected so you can see the pins inside. This is important because water can corrode the insides. - Dave
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  #15  
Old 03-13-2017, 06:49 PM
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Here's a diagram showing the two main connector plugs. They are below and to the right of the master cylinder/booster.

John
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File Type: jpg 62 wiring connectors.jpg (321.3 KB, 43 views)
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  #16  
Old 03-13-2017, 07:44 PM
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Ok, look at what's happening in this plug. One wire for the brake switch is hot at all times and two wires go to the starter solenoid. One wire bypasses the ignition resistor to the coil.

I would start by looking at this plug:
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File Type: png 1962IgnitionWires2.png (157.9 KB, 43 views)
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  #17  
Old 03-13-2017, 10:55 PM
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Sorry, I got busy....all great info...thanks. So, here's what happened tonight. I replaced all those broken frayed wires, hooked up the battery and took the volt meter to the wires. With the ignition OFF, no key, I was getting 13 volts at the red wire that attaches to the ignition coil +. So, go inside to the ignition switch (my entire dash is removed) and I see a separate red wire leading up and away from the ignition switch that has a quick disconnect/connect plug that goes into another bundle of wires. I disconnect if from the ignition switch and put the volt meter to it and I get 13 volts as well. Looking in my shop manual, I believe it is the "Spark Coil Primary Resistor" I'll try to attach the phone here. So........if I am getting 13 volts on the red wire (primary resistor) going into the ignition switch, and it's turned OFF and I'm getting 13 Volts at the red wire that is suppose to connect to the ignition coil....does that mean bad ignition switch? Hopefully I explained it right.
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  #18  
Old 03-13-2017, 11:01 PM
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I was going to post a picture from the shop manual...but can't seem to get it to work...sorry.
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  #19  
Old 03-13-2017, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
Here's a diagram showing the two main connector plugs. They are below and to the right of the master cylinder/booster.

John

Awesome!!! Thanks, I was able to locate the connector :-)
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  #20  
Old 03-14-2017, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RetiredBMC View Post
So........if I am getting 13 volts on the red wire (primary resistor) going into the ignition switch, and it's turned OFF and I'm getting 13 Volts at the red wire that is suppose to connect to the ignition coil....does that mean bad ignition switch? Hopefully I explained it right.
With the key off the only wire at the ignition switch that should have voltage is the yellow wire. None of the other wires should have voltage unless the key is in the On, Acc or Start position. If you have voltage on the resistance wire bullet connector coming from the ignition switch with the wire disconnected and the key off then it's most likely the ignition switch. To make sure remove the connector from the ignition switch and put your voltmeter on Ohms with an audible beep. Make sure the key is off. Connect one lead to the B terminal of the switch and the other lead to any of the other terminals. If you get a steady beep then the switch is bad. If you don't then turn the key to the On position. It should beep when you hit the C terminal or the center post. When you turn to Start you should get a beep on the S terminal. If the switch tests good then the trouble is toward the wiring harness.

John
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